I'm glad my engine didn't light on fire (Oil leak)
11-19-2011, 08:55 AM
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I'm glad my engine didn't light on fire (Oil leak)
Ok, a bit freaked out here. I found that there was dried up oil (pretty sure its oil) all around my drain bolt, looked around and saw black oil all over the filter. This explains why my ap1 burns a quart every 3k. I'm changing the oil myself and using an oil wrench tool tomorrow to try to fix this...
Now, is the oil coming out of both places or just spewing out of the filter all over?
Also, why do I have little tiny cracks around the oil drain bolt area? Is this normal?
Pics attached, any help much appreciated
Now, is the oil coming out of both places or just spewing out of the filter all over?
Also, why do I have little tiny cracks around the oil drain bolt area? Is this normal?
Pics attached, any help much appreciated
11-19-2011, 10:13 AM
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Update: I used my torque wrench on the old filter and it seemed to be 2/8 - 3/8 of a turn loose.
So I'm sure the filter is leaking just because of that, but what about my drain bolt, is it leaking or is that just dirt (I checked it is not undertightened but not sure if overtightneed)? Again any help much appreciated!
So I'm sure the filter is leaking just because of that, but what about my drain bolt, is it leaking or is that just dirt (I checked it is not undertightened but not sure if overtightneed)? Again any help much appreciated!
11-19-2011, 10:32 AM
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First things first. Unscrew the filter and make sure there is only one gasket. Sometimes the old one sticks. Thread the filter on until it touches the oil-cooler face. Look for the small numbers 1-8 on the lower half of the filter. Make a mental note of where a certain number is and turn the filter +7 digits to the same point. Your filter is torqued. I have used a torque wrench before, but I feel the filter is more secure using the number sequence.
The oil cooler behind it shows signs of rust. I wonder if it is corroded. Start the engine and allow it to reach full temperature. Watch the filter contact area and the cooler behind it and watch for droplet formation. It may be nothing, but I can't tell from here.
The oil pan pictures are too hard to discern from here. A camera on the macro setting will give a sharp image. If it's small lines that stick out, they're just casting marks. If they are cracks, but have no weep marks around them, just check your pan regularly at each oil change to make sure they don't worsen.
With any S2000, you should check your oil at EVERY fill up.
The oil cooler behind it shows signs of rust. I wonder if it is corroded. Start the engine and allow it to reach full temperature. Watch the filter contact area and the cooler behind it and watch for droplet formation. It may be nothing, but I can't tell from here.
The oil pan pictures are too hard to discern from here. A camera on the macro setting will give a sharp image. If it's small lines that stick out, they're just casting marks. If they are cracks, but have no weep marks around them, just check your pan regularly at each oil change to make sure they don't worsen.
With any S2000, you should check your oil at EVERY fill up.
11-19-2011, 10:57 AM
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First things first. Unscrew the filter and make sure there is only one gasket. Sometimes the old one sticks. Thread the filter on until it touches the oil-cooler face. Look for the small numbers 1-8 on the lower half of the filter. Make a mental note of where a certain number is and turn the filter +7 digits to the same point. Your filter is torqued. I have used a torque wrench before, but I feel the filter is more secure using the number sequence.
The oil cooler behind it shows signs of rust. I wonder if it is corroded. Start the engine and allow it to reach full temperature. Watch the filter contact area and the cooler behind it and watch for droplet formation. It may be nothing, but I can't tell from here.
The oil pan pictures are too hard to discern from here. A camera on the macro setting will give a sharp image. If it's small lines that stick out, they're just casting marks. If they are cracks, but have no weep marks around them, just check your pan regularly at each oil change to make sure they don't worsen.
With any S2000, you should check your oil at EVERY fill up.
The oil cooler behind it shows signs of rust. I wonder if it is corroded. Start the engine and allow it to reach full temperature. Watch the filter contact area and the cooler behind it and watch for droplet formation. It may be nothing, but I can't tell from here.
The oil pan pictures are too hard to discern from here. A camera on the macro setting will give a sharp image. If it's small lines that stick out, they're just casting marks. If they are cracks, but have no weep marks around them, just check your pan regularly at each oil change to make sure they don't worsen.
With any S2000, you should check your oil at EVERY fill up.
Okay I will check these things today. I haven't seen any corrosion except in one spot (metal molding at front of car directly under hood), but the piece of metal did not have a critical function.
With the oil pan pictures, the easiest crack to see is the 5th picture (top row, most right). If you look at the top towards the center, there is a crack running from the original cast marks. None of the cracks are deep or branch out, but they are worrisome.
Oh and I check my oil at least 1 a week. Thanks for taking a look at it, I appreciate it.
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