Gernby

He probably used a pickle fork, which is a definite no-no.

wortham

ya know, once again s2ki people rule. particularly:

-gernby, i read your JIC stuff. thanks for the info.
-i'll have a 2nd person there with me, so that'll make my job easier.
-revhi, i keep hearing about the bolt too so i'm ready for it the day of the install.
-what the, i haven't read through the thread yet, but i can already tell it's going to make the job a little easier on the suspension impaired like myself.

i'm also ears to suggested settings for about a 20mm drop that'll keep me from rubbing and bottoming out. it's a street only show car. i'd track her, but ... well ... i don't trust myself when i get competitive. i'll drive over my skill for sure.

FF2Skip

True. But after doing this several times and using the scissor jack to raise your car to get the floor jack under it(before I got a low profile one) numerous times, the raceway(bearing thing) on the scissor jack will let loose on you. Mine let go at a NOPI show in Bristol. I had to borrow another one to get my wheel back on.

It is, however, the easiest way... but not the fastest.





And yes, I used the fork type.

Gernby

If you have a helper, have that person stand on the rear hub (with the parking brake on) to maximize the clearance to remove / replace the strut. I've done this a few times, and it works great. Just place a chair next to the hub for the person to balance himself.

Gernby

Also, if you haven't already read it elsewhere ...

Don't pop any ball joints on the front (or rear for that matter). Just remove the 2 bolts (on each side) that hold the upper control arm to the frame. This will allow the upper control arm to swing away, which gives plenty of room to remove / replace the struts. Don't tighten those bolts back down until the car is back on the ground.

axis_of_evil

Disconnect the A-arm bolts, dont split ball joint.