S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

If you think it is safe to redline as soon as you see 3 bars on the dash, think again

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Old 09-28-2001, 07:25 AM
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I think a lot of the reason they don't recommend synth for the rotaries is that the oil is actually injected into the rotary engine in order to lube the apex seals. As someone mentioned on this thread, synth doesn't burn off as easily and might lead to a buildup of oil in the rotary engine.

Comparing rotaries to piston engines is really an apples and oranges deal.

Also, I should note that while I am questioning whether it's really necessary to wait the extra few minutes after getting three bars, as a rule - I do always wait a few minutes after the coolant gets up to temp before running the car hard... I'm simply questioning it because it's brought about a great discussion and because I really do have my doubts that it's completely necessary. But as there is definitely doubt on the matter, I would advise everyone to be safe and wait for the oil to heat up before running the car hard.
Old 09-28-2001, 07:33 AM
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UL -- Can't wait to see what happens. I'm wondering about an unanticipated factor of some kind.
Luis -- We're arguing about subtleties and vagaries. No one's disagreeing that the engine needs to be warm before thrashing.
Old 09-28-2001, 10:59 AM
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Rev, while rotaries are very different, the combustion dynamics really aren't. The fact that they have problems burning synth which results in mileage and hp problems points to a _potential_ issue with an engine like the F20C that uses a fair bit of oil. Conversely, older air/oil cooled 911s used plenty of oil and were filled with Mobil1 from the factory. Hence the need for more investigation.

On the topic of oil "making" power, it can free up a substantial amount. I participated in a dyno test for some Redline products. They were given to us blindly and asked to have them tested. We went from regular dino oil to the same weight synthetic from Redline. Oil and water temps were monitored to make sure that the test conditions were consistent. The Redline oil showed a nearly constant 1.5-2% power gain on a chassis dynamometer and the results were repeatable. Not a lot of power freed up, but considering how much some people pay for zero power gains... :-)

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Old 09-28-2001, 11:25 AM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by ultimate lurker
[B]Redline oil showed a nearly constant 1.5-2% power gain on a chassis dynamometer and the results were repeatable.
Old 09-28-2001, 12:17 PM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by ultimate lurker
[B]Rev, while rotaries are very different, the combustion dynamics really aren't.
Old 09-28-2001, 12:40 PM
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Originally posted by StrangeDaze
It would be interesting to get some more impressions from users of Mobil 1, particularly divided along the lines of people whose engine is using a lot of oil compared to those whose engine is using very little to no oil between changes.
I changed oil to Mobil 1 at 600 mi (not recommended and would not do so given the experience and knowledge gained since I bought the car Sept. 1999) and subsequently was burning oil at 1 qt/1k mi. The exhaust pipe lining would get an oil slick like coating after each drive to work of only 9 mi! Certainly this might have happened with any oil used on the change, but perhaps not to such a degree.

UL's hypotheses of shear strength corellating with oil burning, gas mileage, and power makes sense, especially with an engine not quite broken in and with rings that still need more seating.

Certainly some have indicated distinct impression of vtec kick being less with synthetic, though I have in the past attributed this to less power subvtec with nonsynthetic oil, but I am beginning to rethink this.
Old 09-28-2001, 03:15 PM
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No synthetic for me for now. Anyone wanna buy 6 qts. of Mobil 1 10w-30 for $20?
Old 09-28-2001, 03:26 PM
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If we ever sort this out it will be facinating because it doesn't make any sense. Think of synthetic as genetically reengineered dino. It's not that different; a "gene splice" here or there...

Of the many questions that come to mind here's one: What could shear strength possibly have to do with flammability?
Old 09-28-2001, 04:28 PM
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Originally posted by marcucci
OK, Luis, if this is the case, can you relate this phenomenon to oil pressure? If the oil requires 6 times much more pressure, how come most vehicles, before even being "warm," have normal pressure readings at colder temps?
I'd say that oil pressure is mostly dependent on crank shaft angular velocity given that the oil pump is chain driven and directly connected to the crank. If the oil is cold it will flow slower than if it was hot. A change in oil pressure will be observed but it will not be directly proportional to the relative oil viscosity.

What am I missing?


Originally posted by marcucci

You never did answer, what's the lowest discernable deflection on your gauge?
About 50C. Is that important?
Old 09-28-2001, 05:14 PM
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Luis,
What kind of oil temp gauge do you have and where is it installed? Can you post a photo please?


Quick Reply: If you think it is safe to redline as soon as you see 3 bars on the dash, think again



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