If you think it is safe to redline as soon as you see 3 bars on the dash, think again
09-27-2001, 06:08 AM
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If you think it is safe to redline as soon as you see 3 bars on the dash, think again
At that moment, my oil temp gauge has barely moved from it's resting place.
Getting the oil to 80C (normal operating temp) takes another 6-7 minutes of driving in 20C+ (70F+) weather. It may take longer in colder conditions.
Something to think about.
Getting the oil to 80C (normal operating temp) takes another 6-7 minutes of driving in 20C+ (70F+) weather. It may take longer in colder conditions.
Something to think about.
09-27-2001, 07:28 AM
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He's right, it does take a long time for oil temps to get up (on any car), but like Marcucci said, how much does the oil temp REALLY matter on multi-weight oil? I use Mobil 1 5W30, so my oil is almost like water at room temperature. Does it REALLY matter that much that I get it completely hot before driving semi-hard? I know people make a big fuss over waiting until oil is hot, but I'm not really sure how warranted that is.
09-27-2001, 07:37 AM
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Rev -
how did your car feel after switching to Mobil 5/30? At 3K I switched to the same and the car seemed sluggish. The car had about 200 miles of hard track time before chaning the oil, so doing it at 3 seemed right - break-in wise.
I have no explaination of why its slower.. but I can tell the punch isnt there. Oil thickness has no correlation to the engagement or amount of engagement with the secondary cam lobs - I could understand if the F20 had a cam lob that varied with oil pressure but we dont - what gives?
looking for answers where there isnt any I suppose..
how did your car feel after switching to Mobil 5/30? At 3K I switched to the same and the car seemed sluggish. The car had about 200 miles of hard track time before chaning the oil, so doing it at 3 seemed right - break-in wise.
I have no explaination of why its slower.. but I can tell the punch isnt there. Oil thickness has no correlation to the engagement or amount of engagement with the secondary cam lobs - I could understand if the F20 had a cam lob that varied with oil pressure but we dont - what gives?
looking for answers where there isnt any I suppose..
09-27-2001, 07:48 AM
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For what it's worth, I ran 5-30 at the track this weekend since I had it left over from my Prelude days. I was hoping to stop some of the cold-start ticking that seems abnormal to me. Not only did it not help it, I consumed more oil this weekend than I have before. I'll be going back to 10-30, I can't see any reason to stay with 5-30.
09-27-2001, 09:22 AM
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I find the car does run a little better on the 5W30. could be my imagination, but the car dynos... I believe it was 202 rwhp with stock parts and about 206 with just the AEM intake (at R&D in Gardena, CA)... so I'd say the Mobil 1 helps a bit. (213 rwhp at Dynamic, but that doesn't count cuz they need to re-adjust their dyno).
It does burn a bit when I take corners hard. I think I went through about a quart on a 170~ish mile drive through the mountains a few months back. But I've always heard cars that burn a little oil naturally last longer (provided you make sure they never run low on oil).
It does burn a bit when I take corners hard. I think I went through about a quart on a 170~ish mile drive through the mountains a few months back. But I've always heard cars that burn a little oil naturally last longer (provided you make sure they never run low on oil).
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09-27-2001, 10:15 AM
#8
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I wasn't going to post about this till I had a chance to do some more research, but here goes....
I switched to Mobil1 on my S2K at around 3000 miles. A couple hundred miles later I dyno'd the car in preparation for installing the Mugen header. After the header install I noticed that my fuel mileage was decreasing (from 20 mpg to 18 mpg around town)and I was starting to get a lot of soot on the tailpipes. I attributed this to the Mugen header and for the next 12,000 miles I just lived with it.
However, at my last oil change, about 1000 miles ago, largely on a whim, or maybe intuition, I decided to run a cycle with regular dino oil. I didn't expect any difference in performance, etc., but I wanted to see if the car consumed any more or less oil with regular than with synthetic (historically, with my normal driving habits I use less than 1/2 quart per 3000 miles, more if I spend time on track of course).
Well, I changed oil in the middle of a tank of gas. However, since then my gas mileage has gone up markedly. Usually I get about 200 miles before I get the fuel light and I put in around 11 gallons. The first full tank on the new oil, I got 223 miles before the fuel light. I was incredulous, because I've tried altering my driving style, etc. to improve mileage and nothing worked. I figured it was a fluke. The next tank, with some mixed freeway/city driving, I got 270 miles, or about 24 mpg. My current tank, which has been all city driving again, looks like it will return 20-21 mpg and I've been hammering on the car.
I also cleaned the tailpipes and put some white paint dots inside the pipes to make it easier to observe particulate build up. So far, while there has been some, it appears to primarily occur during cold start when the water vapor coming out of the exhaust dissolves some of the carbon buildup and redeposits it.
Furthermore, the engine, while not obviously more powerful, sounds better, healthier, particularly at high revs. This is totally subjective, although I plan to dyno the car and then change oil back to synthetic and redyno to see what happens.
Why is this occuring? I don't know. I've discussed it with many technically savvy people and the only thing we can come up with is that perhaps the engine is designed and tuned to burn a bit of oil in normal operation. This will affect A/F mixture requirements and even ignition timing. Synthetic oil like Mobil1 does not burn well, or at all. It might even be quenching the flame front in the combustion chamber. An interesting analog I was referred to was rotory engines. Rotaries are notable for regular and significant oil consumption, in part due to their apex seal design requirements. Rotary owners have reported drops in both mileage and power when switching to synthetics like Mobil1. Another bit of anecdotal evidence is a friend who changed from Mobil1 to a synthetic/dino blend on his Dodge minivan. He noted a 1-2 mpg increase as well.
More research is necessary. I'm trying to get ahold of someone at Mobil for comment, although I'm not sure they'll tell me anything.
UL
I switched to Mobil1 on my S2K at around 3000 miles. A couple hundred miles later I dyno'd the car in preparation for installing the Mugen header. After the header install I noticed that my fuel mileage was decreasing (from 20 mpg to 18 mpg around town)and I was starting to get a lot of soot on the tailpipes. I attributed this to the Mugen header and for the next 12,000 miles I just lived with it.
However, at my last oil change, about 1000 miles ago, largely on a whim, or maybe intuition, I decided to run a cycle with regular dino oil. I didn't expect any difference in performance, etc., but I wanted to see if the car consumed any more or less oil with regular than with synthetic (historically, with my normal driving habits I use less than 1/2 quart per 3000 miles, more if I spend time on track of course).
Well, I changed oil in the middle of a tank of gas. However, since then my gas mileage has gone up markedly. Usually I get about 200 miles before I get the fuel light and I put in around 11 gallons. The first full tank on the new oil, I got 223 miles before the fuel light. I was incredulous, because I've tried altering my driving style, etc. to improve mileage and nothing worked. I figured it was a fluke. The next tank, with some mixed freeway/city driving, I got 270 miles, or about 24 mpg. My current tank, which has been all city driving again, looks like it will return 20-21 mpg and I've been hammering on the car.
I also cleaned the tailpipes and put some white paint dots inside the pipes to make it easier to observe particulate build up. So far, while there has been some, it appears to primarily occur during cold start when the water vapor coming out of the exhaust dissolves some of the carbon buildup and redeposits it.
Furthermore, the engine, while not obviously more powerful, sounds better, healthier, particularly at high revs. This is totally subjective, although I plan to dyno the car and then change oil back to synthetic and redyno to see what happens.
Why is this occuring? I don't know. I've discussed it with many technically savvy people and the only thing we can come up with is that perhaps the engine is designed and tuned to burn a bit of oil in normal operation. This will affect A/F mixture requirements and even ignition timing. Synthetic oil like Mobil1 does not burn well, or at all. It might even be quenching the flame front in the combustion chamber. An interesting analog I was referred to was rotory engines. Rotaries are notable for regular and significant oil consumption, in part due to their apex seal design requirements. Rotary owners have reported drops in both mileage and power when switching to synthetics like Mobil1. Another bit of anecdotal evidence is a friend who changed from Mobil1 to a synthetic/dino blend on his Dodge minivan. He noted a 1-2 mpg increase as well.
More research is necessary. I'm trying to get ahold of someone at Mobil for comment, although I'm not sure they'll tell me anything.
UL
09-27-2001, 10:28 AM
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Quite interesting indeed. I thought my car seemed noticably stronger when I switched to mobil 1 at, I believe 6k miles. I've never gone back because I always just take it for granted that this is the right thing to do. UL, what weight were you using?
09-27-2001, 11:23 AM
#10
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I have been told that switching between dyno oil and synthetic isn't a good thing due to seals within the car going bad. Anybody else heard this same statement?
I still may end up going back over to regular oil for a little a test. Im at 38,000 miles and ever since 11,000 been running synth. I do still notice a little oil dissapearing after 4,000 miles. I fill the car up with 5.5 quarts usually and when I put that oil that I drain out into containers I get back only like 4.5-4.75 though I usually end up putting a good amount into the oil filter before installation. So its loosing about a 1/2 quart-1/3 quart. Not even really noticable on the dip stick.
With me going into the winter season im sticking with the Synth oil since it flows better in cold. 10-40 is what I have always used. Those that drive the car only on weekends synth might be better since it sticks to the insides of the engine on startup(so im told). Daily drivers or frequent drivers might just want to stick with dyno oil...........
Keep us informed!
I still may end up going back over to regular oil for a little a test. Im at 38,000 miles and ever since 11,000 been running synth. I do still notice a little oil dissapearing after 4,000 miles. I fill the car up with 5.5 quarts usually and when I put that oil that I drain out into containers I get back only like 4.5-4.75 though I usually end up putting a good amount into the oil filter before installation. So its loosing about a 1/2 quart-1/3 quart. Not even really noticable on the dip stick.
With me going into the winter season im sticking with the Synth oil since it flows better in cold. 10-40 is what I have always used. Those that drive the car only on weekends synth might be better since it sticks to the insides of the engine on startup(so im told). Daily drivers or frequent drivers might just want to stick with dyno oil...........
Keep us informed!