Idler pulley vs wholle auto tensioner assy
12-19-2011, 07:19 PM
#11
Registered User
12-19-2011, 08:20 PM
#12
So, the Idler pulley is making a lot of noise and needs to be replaced. Is there any reason that I should replace the whole autotensioner assembly? It appears the pulley can be purchased separately for about $65, the whole auto tensioner assembly is about $110.
Also, can the autotensioner be purchased by itself?
Thanks everyone.
Also, can the autotensioner be purchased by itself?
Thanks everyone.
ive got both for sale dirt cheap too pm me if you like, check the forsale thread youl also see pics of it
12-20-2011, 02:09 AM
#13
Originally Posted by davidc1' timestamp='1324253410' post='21246735
So, the Idler pulley is making a lot of noise and needs to be replaced. Is there any reason that I should replace the whole autotensioner assembly? It appears the pulley can be purchased separately for about $65, the whole auto tensioner assembly is about $110.
Also, can the autotensioner be purchased by itself?
Thanks everyone.
Also, can the autotensioner be purchased by itself?
Thanks everyone.
ive got both for sale dirt cheap too pm me if you like, check the forsale thread youl also see pics of it
12-20-2011, 02:13 AM
#14
The load does not change at all on the tensioner pulley while the car is in motion or revving in neutral. reving and driving are the same when it comes to the pulley.
thrust bearing is internal deep in the engine. It keeps the crankshaft from moving in and out. Thre is some play and its normal. i can post the numbers later.
The thrust bearing paly can be checked with a dial indicator on the crank pulley. Just pry it away from the engine, then back into the engine. Be gentle it will move with ease.
Measure the total back and forth movement via the dial indicator.
thrust bearing is internal deep in the engine. It keeps the crankshaft from moving in and out. Thre is some play and its normal. i can post the numbers later.
The thrust bearing paly can be checked with a dial indicator on the crank pulley. Just pry it away from the engine, then back into the engine. Be gentle it will move with ease.
Measure the total back and forth movement via the dial indicator.
Hmm, doesn't sound like an inexpensive repair, huh?
Would it be expected that I would not hear any noise at all or feel any vibration at all when the engine is not under
Thanks guys...
12-20-2011, 12:56 PM
#15
Registered User
It's a big job. You need the proper tools and know how to do it. If you're comfortable around mic's and a torque wrench you can attempt it with a helm's, but the crank clearances are not to be taken lightly. Anything binds up and poof. If the bearings are done, the motor is coming out for the rebuild. It would be unwise not to swap the clutch then.
First things first though. Use a dial indicator to see how much end play the crank has before you worry yourself to death about the unknown. If you just want to check real quick, pull the belt and pry gently between the crank pulley and case. If it moves you probably have crank walk. Bear in mind the outer ring is mounted on rubber, so watch the crank bolt, not the outside of the pulley.
First things first though. Use a dial indicator to see how much end play the crank has before you worry yourself to death about the unknown. If you just want to check real quick, pull the belt and pry gently between the crank pulley and case. If it moves you probably have crank walk. Bear in mind the outer ring is mounted on rubber, so watch the crank bolt, not the outside of the pulley.
12-20-2011, 03:31 PM
#16
Moderator
All s2k cranks will move. you'll hear it tap back and forth, this is normal.
I have a brand new, never fired s2k engine here. Just measured it for your thread. The crank can easily knock back and forth. The end play is exacty .006.
.004-.014 is new. Up to .018 is allowable.
The only reason I say crank thrust issues is because you can feel it through the clutch pedal.
I have a car here with this issue, 2006, the end play measure .045.
I have a brand new, never fired s2k engine here. Just measured it for your thread. The crank can easily knock back and forth. The end play is exacty .006.
.004-.014 is new. Up to .018 is allowable.
The only reason I say crank thrust issues is because you can feel it through the clutch pedal.
I have a car here with this issue, 2006, the end play measure .045.
12-21-2011, 02:50 AM
#17
Registered User
You're right. I should have mentioned it can move a little, but I didn't and I probablly couldn't have articulated it properly anyway. 
The one I found with that method was throwing an oil light under hard braking, so the endplay was well over 0.100.
The one I found with that method was throwing an oil light under hard braking, so the endplay was well over 0.100.
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