RedCelica

At the track this past weekend I pulled into the paddock from a full session and the car refused to drop below 4k rpm. Obviously thinking I had a major vacuum leak, I shut the car off, popped the hood, and discovered that the sensor portion of the IACV was separated from the IACV motor and the screws had completely backed out. Doesn't appear that Honda just sells the screws for this, so I am wondering if my two obvious options are my only ones: replace the IACV and bypass the coolant as demonstrated here:
OR

Is it possible just to delete the whole damn thing? I am running an AEM Infinity.

flanders

I've been running without IACV for years since I'm using ITB's.
On cold start idle is very low, like 6-700rpm so it can stall pretty easy if you are not careful with clutch and throttle.
When fully warmed up idle will stay a bit higher than normal, like somewhere around 1300rpm but I don't really think its much of a problem.
Not sure how to adjust idle on stock throttle body though, might need tighten the cable so that it is slightly open.

fernando.

My old S had the bypass done and it didn't seem to affect the idle in any way or form. I didn't even know it had it done, still had high cold idle, etc. The coolant lines are simply there to prevent the TB/IAVC from freezing up in cold weather and the ECT input is what adjusts the idle.

Your issue is the sensor coming off which causes the magnet inside to move about and pull the IACV valve causing your car to idle high. Simply replacing the IACV, or just trying to reattach the sensor with any new screws should fix it.

If you delete it, you'll need a plate to block it off and will have to adjust the TB plate stopper to stay open a hair so you can get your desired idle speed.