The Reverend

Cool weather shows on a dyno. If this works, it should also.

marcucci

Thoroughly castigated? I thought you referring to "general" lack of torque, I agree that the car feels like a FAT Civic DX in hot weather.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by dgl1
[B]In your flow write-up, you show that the coolant comes from the head and thus the temperature of the coolant should be that of the head.

dgl1

Thanks marcucci for your responses and follow up. Your gasket change is too ambicious for me, but the "bleeder cap" may just the thing to interrupt hot coolant flow from the engine. My quick measurment by compass indicates the existing bleeder cap fits a stub of similar size to the stub and tree at the front of the engine. I'll be pleased to get a part of what you experience with the gasket. Before warm weather returns, I'll visit my local Honda parts house and pick up two bleeder caps to try.

Thanks again,

dgl1

marcucci

Certainly. If you are set against the insulator, I'd suggest the Spoon lower-temp thermostat and fan switch; they are a bit price ($120 for the pair) but are relatively easy to do and will drop under-hood temps further. Without the insulator, they should bring the manifold temps down an equal amount (about 20

Pappy

Since the bypass mod eliminates engine heat, would a Spoon thermostat and switch still be good to buy after this mod?

marcucci

I bought it- but it was my intention to reduce under-hood temps as much as possible, and there's NO reason a motor needs to run at 200

marcucci

There is no function for heating the manifold other than emissions. I've been through 30

marcucci

As far as I know, the ECU doesn't know or care what cylinder temps are... the intake air temp sensor (IAT) is the only indicator I know of (besides coolant temp), and it's located up in the intake manifold.

I would expect air temp reductions equal to about what the thermostat/switch reduction is, or about 20