dgl1

Marcucci raised our knowledge with his tutorial on installation of the Hondata gasket:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?thr
eadid=33147&highlight=hondata

Prolene enlightened us with his alternative TB and IAC bypass:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?t
hreadid=28758&highlight=Hondata

Marcucci mentioned the possibility of plugging the coolant lines flowing out of the intake manifold instead of the bypassing alternative.

My question relates to the pressure of the coolant system which is marked

marcucci

Haha... I have your answer right here (or better yet, Honda does):

http://www.s2000.org/mods/t-stat/bleed1.jpg



The arrows point to the factory coolant line bleed locations... look at the big pic (URL) or your car and you'll notice that the one in the upper-right corner IS a rubber cap.

"1.1" represents 1.1 bar or about 16psi. It's high enough pressure that a rubber cap, pressed on, probably wouldn't be enough. Like Honda did it, with a hose clamp (and the cap being properly sized) is enough. If you go with the spacer, it's a more "effective" method in that it blocks the flow altogether. Without it, the easiest method is to use a bypass hose to connect the output near the other bleeder (lower left corner of the pic) and the hose that comes out of the IAC on the side of the manifold and goes down to the thermostat. Check out these pics for the coolant path:

http://www.s2000.org/mods/insulator/image58.jpg
http://www.s2000.org/mods/insulator/image59.jpg
http://www.s2000.org/mods/insulator/image60.jpg

I've got the text to go with it at http://www.s2000.org/mods/insulator/.

The car has been running awesome with the cold weather. But it's been running awesome since I did this. I can't tell you how it's changed the car for the better... it runs great ALL the time now, not just in cool weather. It's gotten close to 80 a few times here already and it hasn't missed a beat. Before, anything above 70 or so was noticeable in traffic or at lights, now it feels like it's still 50 out.

The only negative for me was having to retighten the bolts 3 times. I had a coolant leak until I finally got the material to stop compressing with heat cycles and get the bolts to stay torqued. I think the remedy for that is to overtighten on installation, and possibly to heat the manifold and insulator prior to installation. I'm about to try an install on my truck, I'll try that method and see how it works.

dgl1

Sounds like the s2k's responce in traffic would overcome much of the feeling of lack of torque after this mod. Thanks for the answers with pics.


dgl1

dgl1

marcucci: Additional questions: Even if one uses the gasket/spacer, isn't it necessary to plug/cap the coolant line just after the IAC to avoid back-filling the manifold cavity with hot coolant since the entire system is under 1.1 pressure? Would the absence of hot coolant in the manifold cavity lead to a lower temp in the manifold?

TIA

dgl1

marcucci

I'd like to point out that I think the "lack of torque" the car has is a bad, bad, statement. It has more torque and definitely more per unit weight or per-unit displacemtn than most other Hondas.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by dgl1
[B]marcucci:

dgl1

[QUOTE]Originally posted by marcucci
[B]I'd like to point out that I think the "lack of torque" the car has is a bad, bad, statement. It has more torque and definitely more per unit weight or per-unit displacemtn than most other Hondas....

dgl1

marcucci: Excuse my persistence, but another question has popped into my mind. In your flow write-up, you show that the coolant comes from the head and thus the temperature of the coolant should be that of the head. The gasket/spacer blocks this heated coolant from the TB. Assuming that coolant remains in the cavity in the manifold, the coolant there also would be the temperature of the head.

Couldn't advantage be taken of the cavity in the manifold for cooling rather than heating? After blocking the coolant from the head, would it not be possible to run a hose directly from the major, cool supply hose out of the radiator directly to the TB and on to the IAC using the existing configuration and thereby creating an "inter-cooler" for even greater cooling/heat-avoidance for intake air?

Comments? Anyone?

TIA

dgl1

The Reverend

Any before/after dyno sheets???

dgl1

The Reverend: Ha. Thanks for the complement. No, it's just a theoretical construct at this time. I do not know if there is enough force to move the coolant through the TB and manifold cavity if coolant were taken from the cool radiator supply hose. Thanks.

dgl1

Shamu

[QUOTE]Originally posted by dgl1
[B]The Reverend: