fatjoe10

Hmm.. I've done about 6 s2000 bleeds no problem. I do them the same way I do the brakes: clear hose in container and the other person pumps until all the air is out.

CarbonCrew

Could you please link me to one of your prior posts on the subject. This search engine is awful and I can't find shit.

typewx

So I think I found out why my clutch was not being bled correctly. My slave cylinder is bad. The person who took my motor apart decided that it was a good idea to take apart the slave cylinder too. It was left alone for months in that condition. Now the slave cylinder won't pull back when the clutch is release. That explain why I was not able to start the car. Getting one in tomorrow. I will update if that is in fact the cause or not.

INDYMAC

I bled my clutch and brakes about a week ago, and I did notice that there were just as many little air bubbles in the tubing as there were when I started. I ran a whole small bottle of brake fluid through too. I'll try the Billman method next time.

Question-do you just open the bleeder once the slave is off and held like in the picture? Or do you have to pump the clutch while you're opening the bleeder?

TopGear

I've bled my clutch several times in the last year, and I think you've just been lucky.

I didn't know about unbolting the slave until reading this, so all my bleeds have been with the slave on the transmission.

First two went perfectly, no problems at all. But the last time I did it, no matter how much fluid I put thorough the system, the pedal was still crappy, and my engagement point very low. I'm pretty sure I have some pesky air bubbles, and need to bleed with billman's method.

I'm going to try soon, and see if that was the problem.

NJDrive

I've gravity bled with the slave cylinder untouched. No problems here.

If using the two-person method, you do not need to pump the clutch pedal.

Hold the clutch pedal down, open bleeder until the slave cylinder almost returns to rest, close bleeder, repeat. I also tap on the slave cylinder while bleeding... you'd be surprised on the crud and junk that comes out when doing that. Same goes for calipers.

fatjoe10

Here's how I do it: I have one person sit in the car while I'm under it. Top of the reservoir. put a piece of clear hose on the slave cyl nipple. Crack it open and pump the pedal by hand until some pressure is felt. Close bleeder and add fluid. I then have the other person pump the pedal several times by foot and crack it again. While the pedal is down to the floor, I close the bleeder and it firms up further. I repeat the cycle until no more bubbles are present in the clear hose. All this happens rather quickly and should not take more than 5-10 minutes.

At the shop I used to work at this is how I bled all the cars, from S2000's to e36 M3's and we never had a problem with this method.

As for me, it works, what else can I say? lol

Competitor9

I did the CMC replacement about a year ago following Billman's post. I had the same problem me and my one man army kept trying to bleed the clutch and I could still push the clutch pretty much to the floor with no pressure. Had my girlfriend try and help and still nothing.

Unbolt the slave and bleed it as said it works like a charm. Then if you have issue with where the clutch is engaging adjust the rod. But you have to have to have to bleed it first. I tried moving the pushrod first then realized it didn't help and then had to move it back and found out the hardway there is like zero room in our footwell to move around and work.

typewx

Ok I feel stupid for reporting this but maybe this will help someone in the future. The reason why the clutch would lock up and won't let me start after bleeding was because THE FORK WAS NOT SITTING CORRECTLY! One end was in and the other was not. I don't know why we didn't notice it before.... After we pop the fork back into place, everything worked. the clutch felt solid and I was able to start the car normally again. Just wanted to thank all for your replies.