mikegarrison

Helms manual give both options.

OK, so here's the deal on torque wrenches:

What's really important to the car, the torque on the threaded fastener? No. What's really important is the axial stress. But because the thread pitch provides a constant mechanical advantage, the torque can act as a substitute for an axial stress measurement. However, lots of little things can add variability to the torque measurement in either direction.

All else being the same, it's actually more accurate and repeatable to turn the fastener a given number of revolutions than it is to apply a measured torque. It's just that torque is a lot more practical in most cases.

So in theory, the 7/8 of a turn measure is actually more accurate and repeatable than the 16 ft-lb. This is especially true if you don't use a torque wrench which is highly accurate in the 16 ft-lb range, which most general purpose wrneches will not be.

mikegarrison

Truth is, I do too. But I included it because it's part of the officially recommended process. This step (filming the rubber seal) is really important if you are putting the filter on with a torque wrench (because the oil will affect the torque measurement) -- not so much if you are doing it using the 7/8 of a turn criterion.

CitadelBlue

and there is some type of "DIY" filter lock that uses a spring and a clamp to keep tension on the filter to stay tight, but I can't seem to find any pictures that correspond to a link in Cylcon36 's signature box http://www.s2katlanta.com/forum/showthread.php?t=909 that referenced a picture by Billman250 https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=245303
Anybody know what I'm talking about?

mikegarrison

Yeah, essentially a lockwire setup. Thing is, i've never heard of a case where a properly torqued, Honda PCX filter spun off. The stories always seem to include either a Mobil1 filter or a PCX filter that was only put on "hand tight".

There's no doubt, though, that the lockwire setup provides even more positive security.

CitadelBlue

Looking for a picture............

slipstream444

As John_Z indirectly mentioned, I'd add one important step - prime the new oil filter with fresh oil prior to installing.

Priming the filter prevents about 2-3 seconds of zero to very low oil pressure when you start the engine following an oil change. Otherwise the oil pump has to fill the filter prior to lubricating the engine - it has to force air out of the dry filter.
Filling the filter with oil allows the oil to soak through to the other side of the media, while the drainback valve keeps it from coming out of the center hole. However, don't keep adding oil to point it fills the center section of the filter as well - that just makes a mess.

2-3 seconds may not sound like much - but it adds up over time - as does the wear.