v2deLsoL

basically... when you over tighten an oil filter, what can happen?

the rubber seal may be distorted and it can leak?

now, is it even possible to strip the oil cooler bolt or filter thread? that's a bigger concern even though it can be replaced.

what else can go bad/wrong?

90crvtec

If you're really cranking on a filter you can crinkle the sides. This obviously compromises the structure of the filter and under high pressure (lots of revs) the filter might burst or spring a leak due to the metal walls of the filter being distorted.

I think you should be more worried about what happens when a filter ISN'T on too tight, that's by far more serious and almost always results in a fire and/or engine damage. If the filter comes loose and your car doesn't catch fire or shell the engine you still are left with one hell of a nasty mess to clean up. So yeah, don't under tighten the filter.

As has been covered to exhaustion on this site, the Honda OEM PCX 004 filter for the S2000 has numbers on the side indicating how much further you should tighten the filter after it's already been hand tightened by the installer.

Ubetit

Tighten by hand then 1/8 to 1/4 turn by cap wrench. I have a strong grip and forearms so they never go on wth anything more than my hand. I haven't had a problem in 20 years of doing my own oil changes under all types of conditions.

jeggy

better to overtighten then not enough.
with your run of the mill overtightened oil filter, it's just a kick in the balls to remove at the next oil change.

the oil filter shell will crush/twist/crinkle before any other type of damage will occur.

v2deLsoL

just wanted to know... needed some opinions.

i cranked it with my hand until it stopped. i didn't really put muscle into it though. after that, i got my wrench out and gave it a full rotation. 7/8 is 88% or 15-18 lbs is about a full rotation. i have both the mobil and the pcx at home. just felt like using something else. i don't know if the torque specs are the same though because the rubber seal might be more dense than another.

mikegarrison

For something this simple, it's amazing how many people seem to screw it up. The instructions are as follows:

1) be sure the rubber ring from the last filter is off the engine and the filter seating surface is clean

2) using your finger coat the new filter's rubber seal with a thin film of oil

3) put the filter on by hand, spinning it down until it first contacts the block -- NOT until it is "hand tight", just until it first makes contact

4) then turn it 7/8 of a rotation more (which for most people is easiest to do with a wrench)

---------------

And WTF? "Just felt like using something else"? It's well documented that the Mobil1 filter is dangerous to use on the S2000. We have a very good and very cheap filter from Honda that is specifically designed for our engine. Why would anybody use anything else?

S~Factor

I agree with the above but I always skip #2. There's already plenty of oil on the engine block from the previous filter.

John_Z

^Lubing the filter seal and filling the filter are two different things.

I agree with Mikegarrison but use a tq wrench set at 16ft lb. Why would anyone not follow the Helms manual

milkbubble

I always lube the new filter o-ring gasket because I like to clean the the seating surface on the block every time.

v2deLsoL

i don't have a manual... i didn't know you're supposed to start the torque spec when the rubber seal touches, not when it stops rotating. 'll follow that next time.