how to store your S?
10-08-2014, 05:19 PM
#21
Originally Posted by yamahaSHO' timestamp='1412779411' post='23361287
The problem with changing before storage... I have other things to do and I would need to change it at a time I could burn off moisture before putting it away. If I do that, that generally means I will drive it many more times before salt is put on the ground and now I'm right back to where I was.
Never had my motor eaten away from the inside out. I also store it with E85 for that same 6 months... As well as 2 other cars.
10-10-2014, 07:49 AM
#23
To prevent flat spots on your tires you could purchase flat stoppers which are hard rubber or plastic that are in the shape of a tire that you place under each tire, this provides a larger area for the distribution the weight of the vehicle over the tire.
Another storage item is a car jacket, this is a car cover that the vehicle is driven onto and then is zipped up and over the vehicle, desiccant material can be added to absorb moisture during the storage period. Great item if you have to contend with rodent in your storage area.
Another storage item is a car jacket, this is a car cover that the vehicle is driven onto and then is zipped up and over the vehicle, desiccant material can be added to absorb moisture during the storage period. Great item if you have to contend with rodent in your storage area.
10-10-2014, 08:17 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by windhund116
Don't you think it would be better to raise the car up on jack stands? Anyhoo... prolly not going to cause much flat-spotting in the few months of winter. No?
Overinflating is not a ad idea, but imo is not at all necessary for such a short sit.
Hey question on that. Why would it exactly be bad for the suspension? I would rather throw it up on stands, so mice have a harder time, plus in the spring I can then do all my fluid changes easy. Before I store it, I'm going to put silicone grease on all the rubber boots, so they don't crack. Will this be okay?
10-10-2014, 10:27 AM
#25
Guys I have a question. I'm gona buy the battery tender jr. But I don't Wana leave it working all winter because I read some reviews on amazon about battery boiling and over charging. Would it be ok to leave the battery disconnected and every week or 2 use the tender for a few hours and repeat all winter ?
10-10-2014, 04:58 PM
#26
Guys I have a question. I'm gona buy the battery tender jr. But I don't Wana leave it working all winter because I read some reviews on amazon about battery boiling and over charging. Would it be ok to leave the battery disconnected and every week or 2 use the tender for a few hours and repeat all winter ?
10-10-2014, 06:27 PM
#27
My question pertains more to not driving all winter. My turbo civic I used to just start it all winter ever other week or so. Let it run for 10 mins and shut it off. Did it like that for years but after reading here seems to be a No no. Basically I wana disconnect my terminals and use the alligator clip to charge the battery for a few hours every other week or so instead of starting the car. I just don't trust leaving the tender connected all winter long after reading some of the negative reviews
10-14-2014, 07:33 AM
#28
Originally Posted by yamahaSHO
Never had my motor eaten away from the inside out. I also store it with E85 for that same 6 months... As well as 2 other cars.
In this thread it was mentioned its not a good idea to start the engine to let it warm up for 10 min every week during storage (I was one of the ones that said this. Yet lots of people have done that, and I bet most of them could say '...and I never had any problems'. Does that mean its a good idea? Does them not detecting an adverse result mean there was no adverse result?
What about someone that waits about twice as long as they should to change their oil. I bet a lot of those people could delude themselves into thinking its OK, since 'they never had any problems' (that they know about).
Regarding battery tenders, they are supposed to detect once the battery is charged, and stop charging. They should not be able to overcharge. The whole idea is you can let it 'tend' to your battery and always keep it just topped off with a full charge. From the treads reporting issues it sounds like maybe sometimes they don't. I haven't had this problem with mine (which is rather old, 20+ years). Maybe its a don't make 'em like they used to issue.
10-14-2014, 09:13 AM
#29
Originally Posted by yamahaSHO
Never had my motor eaten away from the inside out. I also store it with E85 for that same 6 months... As well as 2 other cars.
In this thread it was mentioned its not a good idea to start the engine to let it warm up for 10 min every week during storage (I was one of the ones that said this. Yet lots of people have done that, and I bet most of them could say '...and I never had any problems'. Does that mean its a good idea? Does them not detecting an adverse result mean there was no adverse result?
My dad found rust on his valves on his hot rod from starting the car, letting it warm up a bit, doing burnouts and putting the car back without fully having time to burn everything off. To top it off, this was in dry ass Arizona.
Regarding battery tenders, they are supposed to detect once the battery is charged, and stop charging. They should not be able to overcharge. The whole idea is you can let it 'tend' to your battery and always keep it just topped off with a full charge. From the treads reporting issues it sounds like maybe sometimes they don't. I haven't had this problem with mine (which is rather old, 20+ years). Maybe its a don't make 'em like they used to issue.
I personally pull the batteries and hit them with the trickle charger once or twice through the winter to keep them charged. Sometimes I just pull the batteries and it is enough to keep them from draining completely.