How to prevent heat soak?
05-02-2013, 10:10 PM
#11
Registered User
CAI will help a bit.
IMO the best thing to do is rework the factory intake box. I'll try to upload a picture of mine later. Basically use a heat reflective film on the outside of the box(you have probably seen some people use it on the inside and that makes no sense to do). A nice snorkel to direct cooler air into the box, and if you wanted you could insulate the factory intake arm as well.
Heatshielding the engine heat away from the intake box as well as the hot air coming through the radiator(something like the trackforged heat shield used for turbo cars).
From there a thicker spacer between the IM and the head will help some. Even blocking off the coolant flow path through the IM.
Those are the stage 1 steps imo lol.
IMO the best thing to do is rework the factory intake box. I'll try to upload a picture of mine later. Basically use a heat reflective film on the outside of the box(you have probably seen some people use it on the inside and that makes no sense to do). A nice snorkel to direct cooler air into the box, and if you wanted you could insulate the factory intake arm as well.
Heatshielding the engine heat away from the intake box as well as the hot air coming through the radiator(something like the trackforged heat shield used for turbo cars).
From there a thicker spacer between the IM and the head will help some. Even blocking off the coolant flow path through the IM.
Those are the stage 1 steps imo lol.
05-02-2013, 10:22 PM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
CAI will help a bit.
IMO the best thing to do is rework the factory intake box. I'll try to upload a picture of mine later. Basically use a heat reflective film on the outside of the box(you have probably seen some people use it on the inside and that makes no sense to do). A nice snorkel to direct cooler air into the box, and if you wanted you could insulate the factory intake arm as well.
Heatshielding the engine heat away from the intake box as well as the hot air coming through the radiator(something like the trackforged heat shield used for turbo cars).
From there a thicker spacer between the IM and the head will help some. Even blocking off the coolant flow path through the IM.
Those are the stage 1 steps imo lol.
IMO the best thing to do is rework the factory intake box. I'll try to upload a picture of mine later. Basically use a heat reflective film on the outside of the box(you have probably seen some people use it on the inside and that makes no sense to do). A nice snorkel to direct cooler air into the box, and if you wanted you could insulate the factory intake arm as well.
Heatshielding the engine heat away from the intake box as well as the hot air coming through the radiator(something like the trackforged heat shield used for turbo cars).
From there a thicker spacer between the IM and the head will help some. Even blocking off the coolant flow path through the IM.
Those are the stage 1 steps imo lol.
05-03-2013, 07:57 AM
#13
Registered User
05-06-2013, 12:12 PM
#14
A 'CAI' that has an exposed filter under the hood with no shielding is really a HOT air intake. A CAI with the filter relocated to under the car is a hydrolock waiting to happen.
Shield/insulate the airbox, and extend the snorkel past the top of the radiator, like was already mentioned, then get the IM gasket that isolates heat xfer from head and blocks the hot water to IM.
Shield/insulate the airbox, and extend the snorkel past the top of the radiator, like was already mentioned, then get the IM gasket that isolates heat xfer from head and blocks the hot water to IM.
05-06-2013, 12:25 PM
#15
Moderator
Auto makers have been making cars with effective CAI for decades - they learned long ago how to utilize the benefits of getting cooler air from outside the engine bay. Aftermarket CAIs can be more efficient, but cold air is no secret. The S2000's intake is particularly well designed for stock unit but even it can be improved. However, the way air is routed to the stock box is pretty much optimized already if you ask me.
If you're moving forward, you're getting a steady stream of ambient air into the car with little heat soak. Wrapping the pumbing will delay the heat soak, then extend it once the insulation is saturated. Unless you do something like run a coolant system over the housing to keep ambient down (or lower it), the best bet is just to keep driving.
One thing you could consider is covering the outside of the airbox and piping with something like heat shield tape to slow down the soak of the inductive materials.
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/pr...ield-mat/79/21
If you're moving forward, you're getting a steady stream of ambient air into the car with little heat soak. Wrapping the pumbing will delay the heat soak, then extend it once the insulation is saturated. Unless you do something like run a coolant system over the housing to keep ambient down (or lower it), the best bet is just to keep driving.
One thing you could consider is covering the outside of the airbox and piping with something like heat shield tape to slow down the soak of the inductive materials.
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/pr...ield-mat/79/21
05-06-2013, 03:10 PM
#16
I have a J's Racing snorkel on my oem box. If I leave my house and drive immediately on the highway and keep on the highway my intake air temps rise pretty slowly and it runs well. If I keep the throttle plate open the intake temps will stay at a decent temp, as soon as the throttle plate closes intake temps will rise quickly. If I get into city stop and go traffic intake temps skyrocket and will then the engine will remain hot with almost no way to get temps to cool down after that. The intake manifold is a huge heat sink, once it gets hot it is nearly impossible to cool off. You can do the coolant by-pass trick to by-pass coolant from the manifold and throttle body. While the Hondata intake manifold gasket has some limited thermal isolation benefits it won't help much once you get into stop and go city traffic and they are notorious for leaking and I would never use one.
05-08-2013, 10:51 AM
#18
Community Organizer
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket is great too but a PITA to install.
05-08-2013, 11:06 AM
#19
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Yeah. Has anyone ever run an aftercooler with an N/A car? Seems like that would work just fine. I'm am currently supercharged, but i think i were to just take out the blower and run and intake off the aftercooler, it would lower the intake temps still. Hmmmm....
Not that I would, but just a thought.
Not that I would, but just a thought.
05-08-2013, 07:48 PM
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
A 'CAI' that has an exposed filter under the hood with no shielding is really a HOT air intake. A CAI with the filter relocated to under the car is a hydrolock waiting to happen.
Shield/insulate the airbox, and extend the snorkel past the top of the radiator, like was already mentioned, then get the IM gasket that isolates heat xfer from head and blocks the hot water to IM.
Shield/insulate the airbox, and extend the snorkel past the top of the radiator, like was already mentioned, then get the IM gasket that isolates heat xfer from head and blocks the hot water to IM.
Auto makers have been making cars with effective CAI for decades - they learned long ago how to utilize the benefits of getting cooler air from outside the engine bay. Aftermarket CAIs can be more efficient, but cold air is no secret. The S2000's intake is particularly well designed for stock unit but even it can be improved. However, the way air is routed to the stock box is pretty much optimized already if you ask me.
If you're moving forward, you're getting a steady stream of ambient air into the car with little heat soak. Wrapping the pumbing will delay the heat soak, then extend it once the insulation is saturated. Unless you do something like run a coolant system over the housing to keep ambient down (or lower it), the best bet is just to keep driving.
One thing you could consider is covering the outside of the airbox and piping with something like heat shield tape to slow down the soak of the inductive materials.
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/pr...ield-mat/79/21
If you're moving forward, you're getting a steady stream of ambient air into the car with little heat soak. Wrapping the pumbing will delay the heat soak, then extend it once the insulation is saturated. Unless you do something like run a coolant system over the housing to keep ambient down (or lower it), the best bet is just to keep driving.
One thing you could consider is covering the outside of the airbox and piping with something like heat shield tape to slow down the soak of the inductive materials.
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/pr...ield-mat/79/21
I have a J's Racing snorkel on my oem box. If I leave my house and drive immediately on the highway and keep on the highway my intake air temps rise pretty slowly and it runs well. If I keep the throttle plate open the intake temps will stay at a decent temp, as soon as the throttle plate closes intake temps will rise quickly. If I get into city stop and go traffic intake temps skyrocket and will then the engine will remain hot with almost no way to get temps to cool down after that. The intake manifold is a huge heat sink, once it gets hot it is nearly impossible to cool off. You can do the coolant by-pass trick to by-pass coolant from the manifold and throttle body. While the Hondata intake manifold gasket has some limited thermal isolation benefits it won't help much once you get into stop and go city traffic and they are notorious for leaking and I would never use one.
Yeah. Has anyone ever run an aftercooler with an N/A car? Seems like that would work just fine. I'm am currently supercharged, but i think i were to just take out the blower and run and intake off the aftercooler, it would lower the intake temps still. Hmmmm....
Not that I would, but just a though.
Not that I would, but just a though.