w1ngman

...If I'm [nearly 100%] sure that my throw out bearing is sticking (aka occasionally my clutch pedal feels as if it "sticks" when fully applied to the floor/released)...then what damage am I doing to what components if I continue to drive the car in this manner .

I have zeeeeero clutch slip. I swear this clutch is tight. But it has basically been ascertained that my dealership kinda likely botched the whole "grease-the-sheit-outta-it" effort when they did my clutch buzz TSB. Problem there is, well, that TSB was done nearly 40K miles ago & I'm now at 70K+ miles . I drive The Bruised Banana aggressively although I've never dropped the clutch. I feel like its strong...but this "sorta sticking" thing is really bothering me. Not because of what it feels like as I drive it...but rather wondering if I'm doing additional damage to any "non-clutch" components if I continue driving with the clutch in the manner its currently exhibiting itself. With an apparent "less grease" issue going on...could the bearing seize with time? If so, what would it seize *TO*?

Also might be worth noting...and this has been true since the TSB (but I'd just figured the TSB made the clutch feel "tighter")...I find myself putting "mad pressure" on just getting my clutch pedal to the floor. By that I mean, my left ankle pretty much hurts all the time now from fighting against the pressure to press dat biotch to the floor.

Am I asking the right questions (if I'm wanting to "milk" the life out of what I otherwise consider a strong clutch)? Or should I get a new clutch and avoid othroscopic surgery on my ankle 4 years from now? .

Seriously...those in the clutch know...what say you?

Thanks,
Dave

jankemi

I'd keep driving it. I doubt that you will break anything that isn't already broke. If the disk is sticking to the shaft it will just stick worse until it sticks for good & you get a ride in a shiny new tow truck. If the throwout bearing is toasted & fails completely, your clutch will not release & you get another ride in a tow truck.

In any case you should not damage the engine or transmission. I've driven cars with toasted t/o bearings & stuck clutch disks without long term harm. I even spit all the needles out of a pilot bearing & drove for 2 more months. Heck I even drove without a 2nd gear syncro for 75K miles. The guy that bought that truck said 'it shifts better than my old one'.

The only think I can think of is if you are applying pressure to the input shaft & causing unusual wear on a thrust bearing inside the transmission, but that sounds like a low probability.

--Mike

Johnny--2K

I would say spend some money and have the dealership grease that thing up, and at the same time change your clutch fluid if you havent done so recently. If that doesnt do the trick, then you will most likely have to buy a new clutch!

xviper

My concerns would be:
If you wear the spindle on which the TO bearing rides in a certain way, you might make a new TO bearing wear prematurely. If it's sticking now and takes abnormal pressure to slide it back and forth, the splines may have already been nicked or damaged.
The other concern is that there is a possibility that if the bearing will not allow for complete clutch engagement (at the top end of the clutch pedal travel), you may eventually put undue wear (slippage) on the moving clutch friction parts. This may not be apparent at this time and it may never be apparent, but it "could".

There is another possibility: You clutch master cylinder could also be screwed. The plunger may not be smoothly sliding inside its bore. This can also apply to the slave cylinder. Bleeding the clutch will tell you if the master cylinder is OK as it will operate without moving the TO bearing during this procedure. You can only test the slave cylinder if it is removed from the tranny and then depressing the clutch carefully.

slick rick

[QUOTE]Originally posted by xviper

w1ngman

Been sitting back appreciating the feedback thus far. Thanks folks .

I know that when I "replace my clutch" I plan to replace [what I consider to be] "all four parts"...Clutch, PP, TO Bearing, and Flywheel. I'm not necessarily interested in aftermarket replacements (too high-dollar for my blood...and frankly, the OEM stuff has been pretty good considering how aggressively I like to drive on the road & that I don't auto-X, etc. thus far).

Saying that...some of the [testing] suggestions here would have me paying nearly the same labor as it would be to have my clutch replaced. Additionally, you are answering my concerns that, in fact, additional "related" clutch parts (master cylinder, splines, etc.) that I don't want to damage unduely.

So I'll bite the rotten egg and order myself the Clutch, TO Bearing, Flywheel, and PP from hardtopguy this week.

Nowwww...next question ... Do I do the install myself!?! . Seriously...I don't *mind* DIY projects...as long as there is the opportunity to do the job correctly through excellent instruction. I've been searching on our site and there are a couple good threads that really outline clutch installs & replacements . A local member can offer me access to a garage that has lifts, tools, etc. that are all rented by the hour. Could be an enjoyable project (you know...for that satisfying feeling of doing the work yourself...okay, okay, and because I'm a tight-ass at heart ). But if I could seriously screw up a clutch replacement with the slightest of ease...someone tell me to step away from the automobile and place my hands on my head! Seriously, I also have an offer to replace my clutch by a qualified Acura mechanic for $400. Given that a first time DIY clutch replacement effort could cost me significant time outta my life, a-little-to-a-lot of headaches, wrenched bolts, and Lord knows what else...$400 kinda sounds like a sweet deal.

Whaddaya think?

Oh...btw...wishing each of us a Happy New Year!!!

- Dave

jankemi

Also, don't forget the pilot bearing. A pilot bearing failure would mean another teardown. (Or is that what you mean by 'PP'?)

My own strategy is to compare the cost of the tools that I need for the job with the cost of the labor to have it done by someone else. If the tools are less than the labor, I buy the tools & do the job myself. Then I have the tools ready for the next repair. So now I've accumulated things like tranny jacks and pilot bearing pullers that I only use once every 5 yrs. In most cases though I have enough cars laying around that I can affoard to leave one layed up for a week or a month, so I'm never in a rush. That helps alot.

If you have to rent a garage by the hour then you are in a bit differnet situation. I'd pay the $400 to have it done in that case.

Good luck either way.

--Mike

Squeezer

[QUOTE]Originally posted by jankemi
Also, don't forget the pilot bearing. A pilot bearing failure would mean another teardown.

w1ngman

The "PP" reference was for the Pressure Plate .

Thanks again all!

- Dave

RedY2KS2k

Throwout bearing != pilot bearing

The throwout bearing lives on the fork inside the transmission bell housing.

The pilot bearing is a smaller bearing in the center of the flywheel. The tip of the transmission shaft (the part without splines) goes in the pilot bearing. The pilot bearing supports the end of the transmission shaft.