Ek9

I honestly think it would have been easier to pull the motor out the top and work with it on my hoist than doing it in place. I don't know how I'm going to get my torque wrench on all those bolts.

Just needed to vent. It was 10 times easier on my Type-R motor.

All that machined aluminum does turn me on though.

Ek9

Went to the parts store and bought some special swivel sockets, sockets with a built in swivel unit. Made things much easier. My hands are hamburger from all the razor sharp brackets. I miss my 2k. Should have it test driving again tonight. Draining and replacing the anti-freeze while I'm at it (type-2 like stock).

I took the alternator and tensioner units off. It didn't take long and completely opened up the front of the manifold so, I could get my hands in there. I didn't disconnect the battery because, I don't have the radio code but, there's a line on the fuse box you can disconnect that completely isolates the alternator so, you don't short anything out.

One thing I notice while tightening is the gasket takes a set and you lose torque on the clamp. I've re-torqued twice now and probably will again before I button the rest up.


Like every other job, I could do it in 1/2 the time now if I had it to do over.

Ek9

Ok, end of the Saga. She's running again. I let her run until the fans came on once. In the morning I'll check the coolant level. Engine was 206F when the fan kicked in, the intake air temp was 107F at the same time. The manifold was cool to the touch too. Normally it's hot as hell.

One of the bleeders doesn't seem to work any more, the one on the intake. Makes sense if you consider the intake heaters are now blocked off by the gasket. The bleeder on the heater tube worked.

For whatever reason, the engine seems quieter now that it's together than before I took it apart.

REVZ TO9

Ive got a Hondata intake gasket, which Im waiting to put in till I get my stainless steel 4-2-1 Megan racing header. All I replace is the stock metal gasket for the hondata right? Any other tips or things to do/watch out for when installing my header and intake gasket?

Ek9

They're not really connected in any way. I'd treat them as two seperate jobs.

My advice is to have the right tools on hand before you even start. The manual's pretty poor at describing the process. I took off the IAC so I could get my hands under, unbolted the water inlet too which you have to remove to get at the back 2 screws. Everything was pretty easy except those back two screws.

The car'll have to be in the air to unbolt the firewall side support bracket. All in all, it was a crappy job. Hopefully it was worth it.

Ek9

Acceleration seems a bit dull now. There's a some tip in sag when I slowly step on the gas in 3rd gear. Manifold vacuum seems fine and fuel trim looks ok. It almost feels like a little vacuum leak. I noticed some of the tiny vacuum lines (on top of the manifold) didn't fit very tightly. Maybe I'll look them over tonight.

With 50K miles on it, I wonder if it's time to change the primary O2 sensor? Maybe it's getting a little slow.

negcamber

Ek9...you might also check your idle control valve. Not sure if you did any cleaning while you had the manifold off, but I did and some of the crap settled in the valve causing it to stick. It did make the car feel sluggish until I cleaned it with some seafoam.

Ek9

Yeah, I might do that. I did have the IAC off and it was kind of cruddy.

Thanks.

HMCK20

is there a how to on this. im gonna do it but all i hear is horror stories so it would be kinda nice to have some kind of instruction. or is there a place where i can get a service manual for a MY06?

Ek9

I found a how-to on the net. It was useful but, I ended up not following it directly. I took off more than he did to give my hands more clearance.

http://www.s2000.org/mods/insulator/

I took off the IAC, air control valve, alternator, belt tensioner and tensioner bracket which gave me alot more room under the manifold.

The hard parts were, the two bolts closest to the firewall and getting the water inlet off. You have to feel around for the bolts.

DON'T attempt if you don't have an inch/lb and ft/lb torque wrench, a bunch of different sized 1/4 and 3/8" extensions and some swivels or swivel sockets. You simply can't get directly at some of the bolts.

There are a number of parts you're supposed to replace for this job, thought I didn't and don't have leaks.

1) Air control valve gasket

2) Fuel inlet line washers

3) Fuel injector 0-rings.

I don't have a 2006 manual.

I'll be honest, if I had it to do over, I probably wouldn't bother.