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I went through steps 1,2,3,4,6 (but no driver) and 7, never did do step 8 - which I was going to do in my original plan. The Tein's had already been adjusted from the factory to a height which turned out to give the car a balanced feel. I lost a bit of the initial turn in, but the rear end feels planted. Anyway, here are the before and after (in centimeters):
65.7 -> 64.0 Front 66.8 -> 64.0
66.6 -> 63.8 Rear. 66.3 -> 64.1
I haven't taken the car to the track yet, but with the pogo effect gone confidence is high
BTW, my car has a SC and a hardtop. Half worn SO2 at 32 psi.
We used bathroom scales and some sort of a contraption that acted like a torque lever. I don't remember exactly how it was constructed, but basically it reduced the weight on the scales by 4. So if a 100lbs was indicated on the scale, the pressure was 400lbs.
It was a lever that had one end on the ground, the other end on the scale and the wheel was somewhere in the middle. You just have to make sure that the scales are the same height when they are free standing and you have to let the air out of the tires down to 15lbs.
Placement of the contact patch can be accurately measured.
I agree with you, it seems completely assenine and if someone told me that, I wouldn't beleive it either.
In any case, it's more accurate (by far) than measuring height.
So did you have 4 identically calibrated bathroom scales, and 4 identical levers with the the tires placed at the same point on the levers? How did you roll the car on top of the equipment without jacking up the car?
That's why you have to start off with scales that are equal free standing.
Then you have to make a ramp about one inch off the ground.
It's not that hard.
You know, come to think of it, You may be able to buy the rack from Racerpartswholesale or pegasus racing or something like that.
Remember, I never claimed to be an engineer. I'm just a driver. i've been around racecars for a long time.
I may not have the most technical descriptions of situations, but they are my interpretations.
I bet you wouldn't believe that a crankshaft can be changed in a Formula Ford by tilting it on it's side and ripping it out through the floorpan. In 15 minutes!
Christ, gernsby, buy a set of cheap scales. You want them bad, buy them and be done with it. You can charge people to corner weight their cars to offset the cost. Between you, Jeremy, and Rierson I think you will make it up in no time.
Originally posted by marcucci Christ, gernsby, buy a set of cheap scales. You want them bad, buy them and be done with it. You can charge people to corner weight their cars to offset the cost. Between you, Jeremy, and Rierson I think you will make it up in no time.
I don't know where you are getting the feeling that I want scales. I think a well thought out approach toward installing the JICs will eliminate the need for scales. I also think that taking a few measurements (correctly) will reduce the total effort. You may feel that this is anal, but I think buying scales is anal.
Don't forget that garages typically have a fairly noticable slope built into them for drainage.
1% or 2% is not uncommon, 1/8" to 1/4" per foot.
Can be particularly troublesome if you try and measure ride height with the car parked on a diagonal in the garage.
When I installed my coil-overs, I carefully counting "turns" on the adjuster. I then hunted down a local SCCA guy with a scale setup in his workshop. I was actually pretty impressed with how well corner balanced the car was just by using the turn-counting technique.
I've reposted my corner weights from the original install:
04-02-2003, 03:28 PM
