High rpm clutch pedal sticking resolved.
09-05-2011, 01:13 PM
#1
Thread Starter
High rpm clutch pedal sticking resolved.
Another post asking about this same issue had gone without any answers. Here is my experience:
Replacing my clutch slave cylinder resolved my high rpm sticking clutch pedal in my 2006 AP2 with 38,500 miles. 12k miles on AP1 FW with SoS sport clutch.
Details
1. Clutch pedal would stick when shifting at 5k rpm or higher.
2. Although I flushed my clutch fluid when I removed the CDV approx. 2 yrs ago, there was considerable crud in the fluid.
3. First, removed the slave cylinder, filed off the nipple that had formed on the end of the push rod. Greased rod end with lithium grease. No improvement.
4. Second, bought Honda UREA grease, polished slave cylinder push rod with 400 grit paper. Pulled out clutch fork and tired to apply grease to fork ends. What a useless attempt. Even with using a mirror, I could only see one side of the fork. Tried to apply grease with a very long, skinny screw driver to the one side of the fork that I could see. Ended up successfully greasing the fork pivot point. No improvement.
5. Third, took the slave cylinder out again to inspect cylinder side of the push rod to make sure that there were no burrs. there were none. Loaded the cylinder cup with UREA grease. No improvement.
6. Decided to disassemble the slave cylinder to make sure there was no dirt inside of the fluid passages. I could not pull the piston out of the cylinder. When I pushed down on the piston it would not go down lower than level with edge of the cylinder. I was able to force the piston out of the cylinder with compressed air. The force required to remove the piston caused it to shoot across the garage, hit the wall and ricochet across to the other side of the garage. I was very lucky that it was not pointed at my S. The piston now had a pucker in the outside wall next to a dent on the cup edge. This is when I determined that I had screwed around enough and it was time to buy a new slave cylinder.
WTF
1. Since I wanted to change the slave cylinder this weekend, I purchased the slave cylinder from a dealer on Friday rather than buying over the internet ($30 premium)
2. Two dealers told me that only one slave cylinder is listed for all years of the S2000. It’s the AP1 slave! No CDV. Does this mean that Honda has recognized the weakness of the CDV?
3. I was told that there is no service bulletin describing the AP2 clutch line modification for use with the AP1 slave.
Observation/questions
1. The AP1 slave cylinder appears to be made from cast iron while the AP2 slave cylinder appears to be made of an aluminum alloy. Is the cylinder wall of AP1 slave cylinder more robust than the cylinder wall of the AP2 slave? Sort of like the early aluminum block engines requiring iron liners for good cylinder wear.
2. Are sticking clutch pedals a bigger problem with AP2s than AP1s?
3. I do not like the way the AP2 clutch line hangs when attached to the AP1 slave cylinder; I have ordered parts for the AP1 lines, bracket and hardware so I will have a neat and tidy OEM AP1 installation between the master cylinder and the slave($60 internet purchase).
T
Replacing my clutch slave cylinder resolved my high rpm sticking clutch pedal in my 2006 AP2 with 38,500 miles. 12k miles on AP1 FW with SoS sport clutch.
Details
1. Clutch pedal would stick when shifting at 5k rpm or higher.
2. Although I flushed my clutch fluid when I removed the CDV approx. 2 yrs ago, there was considerable crud in the fluid.
3. First, removed the slave cylinder, filed off the nipple that had formed on the end of the push rod. Greased rod end with lithium grease. No improvement.
4. Second, bought Honda UREA grease, polished slave cylinder push rod with 400 grit paper. Pulled out clutch fork and tired to apply grease to fork ends. What a useless attempt. Even with using a mirror, I could only see one side of the fork. Tried to apply grease with a very long, skinny screw driver to the one side of the fork that I could see. Ended up successfully greasing the fork pivot point. No improvement.
5. Third, took the slave cylinder out again to inspect cylinder side of the push rod to make sure that there were no burrs. there were none. Loaded the cylinder cup with UREA grease. No improvement.
6. Decided to disassemble the slave cylinder to make sure there was no dirt inside of the fluid passages. I could not pull the piston out of the cylinder. When I pushed down on the piston it would not go down lower than level with edge of the cylinder. I was able to force the piston out of the cylinder with compressed air. The force required to remove the piston caused it to shoot across the garage, hit the wall and ricochet across to the other side of the garage. I was very lucky that it was not pointed at my S. The piston now had a pucker in the outside wall next to a dent on the cup edge. This is when I determined that I had screwed around enough and it was time to buy a new slave cylinder.
WTF
1. Since I wanted to change the slave cylinder this weekend, I purchased the slave cylinder from a dealer on Friday rather than buying over the internet ($30 premium)
2. Two dealers told me that only one slave cylinder is listed for all years of the S2000. It’s the AP1 slave! No CDV. Does this mean that Honda has recognized the weakness of the CDV?
3. I was told that there is no service bulletin describing the AP2 clutch line modification for use with the AP1 slave.
Observation/questions
1. The AP1 slave cylinder appears to be made from cast iron while the AP2 slave cylinder appears to be made of an aluminum alloy. Is the cylinder wall of AP1 slave cylinder more robust than the cylinder wall of the AP2 slave? Sort of like the early aluminum block engines requiring iron liners for good cylinder wear.
2. Are sticking clutch pedals a bigger problem with AP2s than AP1s?
3. I do not like the way the AP2 clutch line hangs when attached to the AP1 slave cylinder; I have ordered parts for the AP1 lines, bracket and hardware so I will have a neat and tidy OEM AP1 installation between the master cylinder and the slave($60 internet purchase).
T
09-05-2011, 03:04 PM
#2
Have you checked your master cylinder? that would be the first thing i would replace before anything. The master cylinder is a BIG part of the feel of the the clutch and the s2000 ones have a lot of issues.
09-05-2011, 04:52 PM
#3
+1 I was thinking the same thing. My Kia is set up in similar fashion. My clutch has been spongy lately and at times the clutch pedal stays at the floor and then the clutch slips. I figured the slave cylinder was shot so I ordered an aftermarket slave cylinder and installed. Low and behold still the same issue. Turns out it’s the master cylinder as further inspection found that my back brakes aren’t getting enough pressure to stop the wheels. Off the ground they stop if you give them a spin with the brake pedal up and then depress, but of you give it a tug the wheel moves and that’s with the brake pedal all the way depressed and the systems flushed clean beforehand. It’s a real bitch diagnosing crap like this when you have one master cylinder for multiple items. That’s what I loved about my old RWD Isuzu turbo. Those systems were separate.
09-05-2011, 06:24 PM
#4
Thread Starter
It was the slave cylinder that had a problem with the piston sticking. So, I replaced the slave cylinder. Problem fixed. No problem with the master cylinder; knock on wood.
10-23-2013, 04:50 AM
#5
I've got an 05 with a CM stage 4 clutch and was having my cluch stick at the top. I just pulled the slave down pulled out the metal rod that pushes on the tranny, polished up the top and lubed it everywhere and everything feels like new :-) I think the lube is the key. I used some wheel bearing grease I had laying around but any thick grease will work I'm sure.
10-23-2013, 06:35 AM
#6
Although there are a number of ways to improve clutch operation I have seen a couple that were only completely fixed with removal of the transmission and proper cleaning and lubrication of shaft, disk, fork, bearing, and slide. Factory installations are usually fine but some replacements that are not done properly and some aftermarket friction disks leave excessive amount of material dust making the situation even worse. So the last resort is even more painful than shooting slave cylinder parts.
10-23-2013, 09:28 AM
#7
Although there are a number of ways to improve clutch operation I have seen a couple that were only completely fixed with removal of the transmission and proper cleaning and lubrication of shaft, disk, fork, bearing, and slide. Factory installations are usually fine but some replacements that are not done properly and some aftermarket friction disks leave excessive amount of material dust making the situation even worse. So the last resort is even more painful than shooting slave cylinder parts.
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10-23-2013, 11:47 AM
#8
Originally Posted by cdelena' timestamp='1382538912' post='22841984
Although there are a number of ways to improve clutch operation I have seen a couple that were only completely fixed with removal of the transmission and proper cleaning and lubrication of shaft, disk, fork, bearing, and slide. Factory installations are usually fine but some replacements that are not done properly and some aftermarket friction disks leave excessive amount of material dust making the situation even worse. So the last resort is even more painful than shooting slave cylinder parts.
Unless you watched you really don't know what you got.
10-23-2013, 12:15 PM
#9
lol....well if it's lasted 15k miles I dont think theres an issue ;-)
As stated above, clutch feels brand new again.....took it out at lunch for a run. Anyone with a sticky clutch up top I recommend this fix before you replace anyything. Literally took me 15 minutes.
As stated above, clutch feels brand new again.....took it out at lunch for a run. Anyone with a sticky clutch up top I recommend this fix before you replace anyything. Literally took me 15 minutes.
03-22-2014, 02:15 PM
#10
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ok. I have a 2008 cr. my clutch started feeling sticky at the bottom at all rpm's
found some ;weeping' on clutch master cylinder so replaced it.
seemed smoother at first but now it is not only sticky at the bottom but at times (not always) the clutch feels very stiff.
climbed underneath the driver seat and everything looks ok, but depressing the clutch pedal by hand produces a squeaking noise in the engine bay. SLAVE CYLINDER???????????????????
found some ;weeping' on clutch master cylinder so replaced it.
seemed smoother at first but now it is not only sticky at the bottom but at times (not always) the clutch feels very stiff.
climbed underneath the driver seat and everything looks ok, but depressing the clutch pedal by hand produces a squeaking noise in the engine bay. SLAVE CYLINDER???????????????????