High price repairs
01-12-2012, 05:47 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
High price repairs
I just bought a 2002 with 70k miles on it. The 30k service was done, plus previous owner did all oil changes with Mobil 1 and OEM filters. I bought an aftermarket warranty through my credit union (PenFed) for $1,295 which if fully refundable within 60 days. It's an exclusionary policy that covers nearly identical to the factory warranty for 36/36,000, plus it's transferable. I'm a DIY guy (suspension, brakes, etc. are very easy for me) and will do some DEs. The compression results are at 240 psi +/- 2 psi and I replaced the plugs while in there.
I'm not looking for opinions on aftermarket warranties. I'm 40 years old with an MBA, so I fully understand how they work.
Here is my question: if I replace the valve retainers, check to see if the oil banjo bolts are the proper ones (my car was made in 3/2002), and I do a UOA on the tranny and diff fluids, what high price repairs could I expect? I'm really thinking of cancelling the warranty if the UOAs come out clean and since the compression is spot on. I also plan to check / adjust the valves.
Thanks everyone!
I'm not looking for opinions on aftermarket warranties. I'm 40 years old with an MBA, so I fully understand how they work.
Here is my question: if I replace the valve retainers, check to see if the oil banjo bolts are the proper ones (my car was made in 3/2002), and I do a UOA on the tranny and diff fluids, what high price repairs could I expect? I'm really thinking of cancelling the warranty if the UOAs come out clean and since the compression is spot on. I also plan to check / adjust the valves.
Thanks everyone!
01-12-2012, 06:03 AM
#2
Moderator
Banjo bolts: If you are not going to go boost, or drive on the Autobahn with your foot to the floor for 3 minutes, dont bother with them.
I would definitely learn here on s2k and cash in that warranty. I can tell you exactly what problems you will encouter, and prevent every single one of them.
These are the #1 killers of an S2000, and are far better insurance than any UOA will ever be:
-LOW OIL. Sounds simple, but people kill this engine all the time by getting low on oil. Not from lack of checking or laziness, but not checking BOTH sides of the stick. One side usually reads perfect. Flip it over and it shows nothing, it means you have nothing. Both sides must match. This is a problem exclusive to the s2k.
-Loose spark plugs, be sure they are properly tightened and they will NOT come loose.
-loose camwheel bolt...check it.
-broken retainers on AP1...check them.
-clutch fluid. Gets dirty, then low, then you start grinding gears, ruin the trans, it hard to bleed, no one knows how to fix the trans. Keep it clean and full.
-coolant system: no known issues, but any service will require coolant bleeding which can be very difficult. An s2k can go 20 miles on low coolant, stay at oerating temperature, then suddenly overheat. one overheat is enough to hurt the engine and warp the cylinder head. Be sure you find my posts on s2k coolant bleeding before you start any coolant service. Biggest tip: heat must be hot in the interior. If the temp gauge shows normal, and your heat is not red hot, you have air guaranteed.
-clutch rod adjustment set to zero freeplay: learn this one time adjustment and save your transmission
-axle nut TSB...leads to rotational noises, bad wheel bearings, ruined hubs. Tighten this nut one-time properly and you'll never have these problems.
-soft top mid bar loss of elastic: learn this bar and how to hold it with your finger while lowering the top, and save your top from cuts
There are of course other maint items...but these are specific killers that lead to major failure and big money.
Did I miss any?
I would definitely learn here on s2k and cash in that warranty. I can tell you exactly what problems you will encouter, and prevent every single one of them.
These are the #1 killers of an S2000, and are far better insurance than any UOA will ever be:
-LOW OIL. Sounds simple, but people kill this engine all the time by getting low on oil. Not from lack of checking or laziness, but not checking BOTH sides of the stick. One side usually reads perfect. Flip it over and it shows nothing, it means you have nothing. Both sides must match. This is a problem exclusive to the s2k.
-Loose spark plugs, be sure they are properly tightened and they will NOT come loose.
-loose camwheel bolt...check it.
-broken retainers on AP1...check them.
-clutch fluid. Gets dirty, then low, then you start grinding gears, ruin the trans, it hard to bleed, no one knows how to fix the trans. Keep it clean and full.
-coolant system: no known issues, but any service will require coolant bleeding which can be very difficult. An s2k can go 20 miles on low coolant, stay at oerating temperature, then suddenly overheat. one overheat is enough to hurt the engine and warp the cylinder head. Be sure you find my posts on s2k coolant bleeding before you start any coolant service. Biggest tip: heat must be hot in the interior. If the temp gauge shows normal, and your heat is not red hot, you have air guaranteed.
-clutch rod adjustment set to zero freeplay: learn this one time adjustment and save your transmission
-axle nut TSB...leads to rotational noises, bad wheel bearings, ruined hubs. Tighten this nut one-time properly and you'll never have these problems.
-soft top mid bar loss of elastic: learn this bar and how to hold it with your finger while lowering the top, and save your top from cuts
There are of course other maint items...but these are specific killers that lead to major failure and big money.
Did I miss any?
01-12-2012, 06:45 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Banjo bolts: If you are not going to go boost, or drive on the Autobahn with your foot to the floor for 3 minutes, dont bother with them.
I would definitely learn here on s2k and cash in that warranty. I can tell you exactly what problems you will encouter, and prevent every single one of them.
These are the killers, and are far better insurance than any UOA will ever be:
-LOW OIL. Sounds simple, but people kill this engine all the time by getting low on oil. Not from lack of checking or laziness, but not checking BOTH sides of the stick. One side usually reads perfect. Flip it over and it shows nothing, it means you have nothing. Both sides must match. This is a problem exclusive to the s2k.
-Loose spark plugs, be sure they are properly tightened and they will NOT come loose.
-loose camwheel bolt...check it.
-broken retainers on AP1...check them.
-clutch fluid. Gets dirty, then low, then you start grinding gears, ruin the trans, it hard to bleed, no one knows how to fix the trans. Keep it clean and full.
-clutch rod adjustment: learn this one time adjustment and save your transmission
-axle nut TSB...leads to rotational noises, bad wheel bearings, ruined hubs. Tighten this nut one-time properly and you'll never have these problems.
-soft top mid bar loss of elastic: learn this bar and how to hold it with your finger while lowering the top, and save your top from cuts
There are of course other maint items...but these are specific killers that lead to major failure and big money.
Did I miss any?
I would definitely learn here on s2k and cash in that warranty. I can tell you exactly what problems you will encouter, and prevent every single one of them.
These are the killers, and are far better insurance than any UOA will ever be:
-LOW OIL. Sounds simple, but people kill this engine all the time by getting low on oil. Not from lack of checking or laziness, but not checking BOTH sides of the stick. One side usually reads perfect. Flip it over and it shows nothing, it means you have nothing. Both sides must match. This is a problem exclusive to the s2k.
-Loose spark plugs, be sure they are properly tightened and they will NOT come loose.
-loose camwheel bolt...check it.
-broken retainers on AP1...check them.
-clutch fluid. Gets dirty, then low, then you start grinding gears, ruin the trans, it hard to bleed, no one knows how to fix the trans. Keep it clean and full.
-clutch rod adjustment: learn this one time adjustment and save your transmission
-axle nut TSB...leads to rotational noises, bad wheel bearings, ruined hubs. Tighten this nut one-time properly and you'll never have these problems.
-soft top mid bar loss of elastic: learn this bar and how to hold it with your finger while lowering the top, and save your top from cuts
There are of course other maint items...but these are specific killers that lead to major failure and big money.
Did I miss any?
-should I even bother with the UOA for the tranny and diff or save the $50? I have the proper fluids in my garage ready to replace them.
-is the camwheel bolt easy to check when the valves are adjusted?
-valve retainers change out when adjusting valves too, I suspect. They are cheap, so should I just replace them while I'm in there?
-brake fluid and clutch fluid is dirty - at best it was replaced 40k miles ago. I use ATE Super Blue, so I'll be flushing these. Clutch is hard to bleed?
-clutch rod adjustment - I'll search for a DIY on that. 3rd gear is notchy if I shift too slow and let the revs drop, otherwise all gears seem fine.
-axle nut TSB - I saw that hear and will be doing this. Should I do all 4 wheels? Someone said the 36mm shallow socket is recommended.
-soft top mid bar - I'll search for that one too. The top is a Robbins top in fairly good condition with one small hole starting to emerge.
I'll be flushing the coolant as well. We have two months of winter left, so I'll have plenty of time to do these items.
Lastly, when I picked it up, the oil was registering on the bottom of the dipstick, but not at the "L". I had to add 2 quarts. Hopefully there is no issue due to this especially since compression is perfect.
01-12-2012, 07:55 AM
#4
Moderator
Just change all the fluids. Start from scratch.
Camwheel bolt access is external, you can do it without taking anything apart.
I would not replace retainers unless bad. a trained eye will be needed to spot them. what ever happens, dont let anyone take the cylinder head off the car. This is a head-in-place job, regarless of what the book says. At all costs, avoid the honda dealer.
no need to flush or bleed clutch fluid, just replace whats in the master res. Empty with turkey baster, clean out will paper towels till spotless, fill back up. Thats IT all you need to do for it. Every release of the clutch sends the dirt to the res.
Axle nut tsb applies only to rear wheels. Search, be sure you find my posts on it.
coolant flush...be absolutely certain you bleed the air from the system before you drive. I should add that to killer list. Find my post on S2000 coolant bleed before you even drain it.
Two quarts low is not a panic. The engine hold 5.8. but keep it full. Never overfull. Top of top X is the way to go.
Camwheel bolt access is external, you can do it without taking anything apart.
I would not replace retainers unless bad. a trained eye will be needed to spot them. what ever happens, dont let anyone take the cylinder head off the car. This is a head-in-place job, regarless of what the book says. At all costs, avoid the honda dealer.
no need to flush or bleed clutch fluid, just replace whats in the master res. Empty with turkey baster, clean out will paper towels till spotless, fill back up. Thats IT
all you need to do for it. Every release of the clutch sends the dirt to the res.Axle nut tsb applies only to rear wheels. Search, be sure you find my posts on it.
coolant flush...be absolutely certain you bleed the air from the system before you drive. I should add that to killer list. Find my post on S2000 coolant bleed before you even drain it.
Two quarts low is not a panic. The engine hold 5.8. but keep it full. Never overfull. Top of top X is the way to go.
01-12-2012, 01:55 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,531
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
change all your fluids to good ones too. The s2k diff is known to go (quickly) if you launch the car wrong so either don't launch it or make sure you spin tires at launch so it doesn't wheel hop. 
I think Billman covered almost everything else though. Read the UTH forums often to see common problems
I think Billman covered almost everything else though. Read the UTH forums often to see common problems
01-12-2012, 02:25 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
change all your fluids to good ones too. The s2k diff is known to go (quickly) if you launch the car wrong so either don't launch it or make sure you spin tires at launch so it doesn't wheel hop. I think Billman covered almost everything else though. Read the UTH forums often to see common problems
I think Billman covered almost everything else though. Read the UTH forums often to see common problemsI'm going to cancel the warranty. That $1300 could be spent elsewhere.
Trending Topics
01-12-2012, 06:11 PM
#9
Registered User
Dump the warranty... I bought the same warranty and 2 days later after I bought the car, the idle control valve was screwing up and causing weird rpms. I found the part, I believe under 100 dollars, called them to fix it and they said it wasn't part of the actual engine and not covered. I told them cover it or you will just lose my business, they said no. So I cancelled my warranty and took my 1500 back. All I got to say is how stupid is a business for them to lose that kind of money for something that simple.