High Milegaes Maintenance, any suggestion?
01-05-2010, 10:21 AM
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High Milegaes Maintenance, any suggestion?
Hi guys....i have a 01 s2k, with approx 60k miles on the clock which i think it is a little bit high, sometimes, she run and idle a bit rough, and a bit nosiy (ticking noise),
so...i decided clean up the dust, rust and grime in the engine bay first and do a valve adjustment, TCT and map sensor replacment, full oil change (redline 5w 40), and have a inspection to check the valves, rod bearning....etc..etc...
but..so far...those are only inside the engine block...and
could you guys please give me some advices on the some other parts that may need a inspect, somthing that im missing,? like..wiring...ignition...sensors...
thanks very much!
so...i decided clean up the dust, rust and grime in the engine bay first and do a valve adjustment, TCT and map sensor replacment, full oil change (redline 5w 40), and have a inspection to check the valves, rod bearning....etc..etc...
but..so far...those are only inside the engine block...and
could you guys please give me some advices on the some other parts that may need a inspect, somthing that im missing,? like..wiring...ignition...sensors...
thanks very much!
01-05-2010, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by spets,Jan 5 2010, 11:47 AM
I would look into replacing the spark plugs as well.
how about disassemble some of the parts, like IAC valve, throttle body and other related parts and clean up the dirt,grime and carbon?
01-05-2010, 12:14 PM
#4
With an '01 you might want to check the valve retainers, I understand earlier AP1s were suseptable to cracking. Also, have a compression test performed to ensure cylinders are withing spec. If your valve inspection shows deposits, dump a bottle of Techron Concentrate fuel system cleaner into a full tank, then change oil after 1,000 miles and dump another bottle in (and only use good cleaning gas like Chevron or Texaco).
that aint high mileage on an S, come back in another 40k 
.
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01-05-2010, 01:17 PM
#8
If you have injector/valve/combustion chamber deposits, try the Redline and see if it cleans things up. If it doesn't work (you have to give it several tanks to clean up the deposits), try the Techron Concentrate fuel system cleaner (not the injector cleaner, that's just a more dilute version of the fuel system cleaner).
If your compression is up to spec and there's nothing wrong with the fuel or engine electrical system (or tranny/diff), you should be able to pull full power. My stock '05 with 65k miles pulled 207whp on a dyno a couple months ago, that translates to ~240bhp, which is the original engine rating. Engines typically gain a slight amount of power as engine tolerances relax a bit over time. Some of the car mags re-run their long term test cars and see a slight rise in peformance.
However, if your compression is compromised (i.e. leaking valves, worn rings), you'll have to fix that problem first before you'd be able to get full power.
Hope this helps...
If your compression is up to spec and there's nothing wrong with the fuel or engine electrical system (or tranny/diff), you should be able to pull full power. My stock '05 with 65k miles pulled 207whp on a dyno a couple months ago, that translates to ~240bhp, which is the original engine rating. Engines typically gain a slight amount of power as engine tolerances relax a bit over time. Some of the car mags re-run their long term test cars and see a slight rise in peformance.
However, if your compression is compromised (i.e. leaking valves, worn rings), you'll have to fix that problem first before you'd be able to get full power.
Hope this helps...
01-05-2010, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg W,Jan 5 2010, 02:17 PM
If you have injector/valve/combustion chamber deposits, try the Redline and see if it cleans things up. If it doesn't work (you have to give it several tanks to clean up the deposits), try the Techron Concentrate fuel system cleaner (not the injector cleaner, that's just a more dilute version of the fuel system cleaner).
If your compression is up to spec and there's nothing wrong with the fuel or engine electrical system (or tranny/diff), you should be able to pull full power. My stock '05 with 65k miles pulled 207whp on a dyno a couple months ago, that translates to ~240bhp, which is the original engine rating. Engines typically gain a slight amount of power as engine tolerances relax a bit over time. Some of the car mags re-run their long term test cars and see a slight rise in peformance.
However, if your compression is compromised (i.e. leaking valves, worn rings), you'll have to fix that problem first before you'd be able to get full power.
Hope this helps...
If your compression is up to spec and there's nothing wrong with the fuel or engine electrical system (or tranny/diff), you should be able to pull full power. My stock '05 with 65k miles pulled 207whp on a dyno a couple months ago, that translates to ~240bhp, which is the original engine rating. Engines typically gain a slight amount of power as engine tolerances relax a bit over time. Some of the car mags re-run their long term test cars and see a slight rise in peformance.
However, if your compression is compromised (i.e. leaking valves, worn rings), you'll have to fix that problem first before you'd be able to get full power.
Hope this helps...
...as you mentioned... a compression and leakdown test can find out if there is any problem in the engine...so..im thinking is it likely to be cheaper and more accurate to go for a compression and leakdown test first, rather than inspection by mechanics? or get my plans done first, do a compression and leakdown test afterward to see what i have missed?
thanks!
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