Wishfull_Thinking_S

Having little closure on the type of driving that has taken place on any peticular motor, it's hard these days to judge the condition of motors these days without getting at all checked out by a mechanic.

I'm looking at buying my first s2k (deciding between 2 as of current), and one has almost 100K, the other 43K or so on it. Both claim to have freeway miles exclusively on them.

So here is where I call out the most mechanically inclinded s2k owners on the board and ask:

'what kind of problems could I expect in buying a high mileage s2k?'
'if a negative, what are we talking about once translated into dollars?'

anything else I should know going into this???

Thanks for the help, this is 6 months in the making in finding models I like.

darkfx

Most owners need a new shortblock before 100k miles. The crank bearings are a weakpoint in the motor IMO

Wishfull_Thinking_S

Now, I'll be the first to admit my own automotive ignorance or lack of knowledge when it comes to internals and what that means to my wallet, but that sounds expensive. Saying I get a new block, and crank bearings......what does that cost? I've had a 'show car' accord for the past few years and left the engine untouched and little or no clue as to costs of repairs to the major engine components.

Ek9

The most important thing's maintainance. A motor with 43K miles could be in far worse condition than one with 100K. It all depends on the owner and the maintainance. I wouldn't buy one with 100K without pretty good records. Like a Vette or any other high performance car, they're beat on by many owners.

You need to get a sense for the car, does it have a CAI, does the carfax show lots of owners, is it a local car or a transplant?

It's a crapshoot, you could buy one tomorrow and then need a motor a week later. You need to try to get a good sense for the car's history and maintainance schedule.

Lower mileage is almost always better, but not always.

Syncmaster

I don't agree with this... If we took a survey I am willing to bet this is not the case.

slalom44

My opinion is a little more optimistic. Sure, there have been many owners that have driven their vehicles hard and ended up with problems, but most of those problems can be attributed to abuse, neglect, or possibly the oil jet bolt issue on earlier models. There are quite a few members here that have over 100,000 miles on their car and haven't had any "significant" engine problems. And many of these owners drive hard (autocross, etc).

I'm not doubting that there have been some failures due to worn crank bearings, but I've been hanging around this site for almost four years and I don't recall seeing any significant number of failures for this issue. Admittedly, a high-revving engine should be prone to eventual failure in this manner, but I'd be more concerned about the FRM cylinders that can't just be rebored when the time comes.

Considering the way this car is typically driven, I'd say it seems to be pretty reliable.

warpspeed

I have 120,000 on my '00 and not one problem. I've changed the oil every 3,500 miles with synthetic, the tranny and diff every 10,000. 95% of my miles are highway. I feel if the car is maintained properly the engine is pretty bulletproof. I'll tell you this, I drive it just as hard today as I did 6 years ago when I bought it!
Good luck with your decision!

topcat7111

How do you know??

Slows2k

He's having to replace an engine, but that's not most people.

If the car spends lots of time on a racetrack the engine will not live as long. The track junkies that have the luxury of spending 30K miles on a track at redline seem to need engines around 80-100K. Otherwise the vast majority of stock PCM controlled NA cars run well in excess of 150K, without a problem.

Modifry's SC'd car has over 160K miles, and many of those are on the track.

bentlink

I have a 2001 s. Love it...

Bought it at 100,000 miles. Maintenance records were religious.

It now has ~110k. Maintenance records are still religious

No probs except:

I had some funny noises coming from the rear end.

a) So I replaced the rear bearings which stopped the sqeak/squelching noise. The rear right bearing case/housing (I think that's the term) was pitted -- so in truth only needed to do the one. $900 CDN including all parts, labour & tax.

b) And then the inner CV joints to stop a slight shudder felt on acceleration and hard corners/road dips. (Actually, I replaced both left & right drive axles including both CV's with used parts from a low mileage wrecked s.) One (right I think) had play when twisted -- again, I probably only needed to do the one. $775 CDN including all parts (used), labour & tax.

Runs like a dream.

Other than that -- my top is a little worn looking but no leaks.

I just check the oil. Seems to use a little -- but no smoke or drips/leaks -- and many on the forum here seem to recommend checking the oil every fill.

Good luck with purchase.