CoralDoc

Like Racer, I'm still unclear about the specification that you used for your valves.

As I mentioned earlier:
0.16 mm = 0.0063" (too tight!)
0.21 mm = 0.0083" (too tight!)
0.065" = 1.65 mm (WAY too loose!)
0.08" = 2.03 mm (WAY too loose!)


If you did set them to 0.16 / 0.21 mm than they are slightly tight. If you used the 0.06 / 0.08", they are WAY too loose. So which is it?

silencertk

i had set them to 0.16mm and 0.21mm. BUT the dealer said they where all to loose. So either they're BS ing or i was on crack when i did it.

still looking for a description on the timing chain tensioner "noise"

RACER

j/k

Ek9

How many valves have you adjusted in the past? I've watched people do this but, because they don't have the "feel" for what the drag should feel like on the feeler gauge they set it too loose. It's like you need someone to show you (I mean first time adjusters) one time before you have the feel for it.

I use 2 blades. One is the minimum spec and the other is the next thicker. I adjust them so, the minimum spec fits the clearance with some drag and the maximum won't push through the clearence at all.

silencertk

i used to drive a bmw and thoose old ones liked frequent adjustments. So i thought i had it down. It was weird guys, because believe it or not, i torqued all the adjusters down, 14lbs. When i took the cover off to do the adjustment again, some where loose. One was even missing, thank god is was still laying up there next to a spring. So i don't know what went wrong. But i'm not going to attempt it again.
After the dealer did it, the car sounded fine. AFter a day driving, normal-> fast (8k rpm) back to the old ticking sound. So i'm thinking, next thing is the tensioner. Does it cause ticking?

Ek9

The loosening adjuster thing is worrysome. If your ticking came back, I'd at least take the cover off and inspect again.

RACER

Your engine had to making excessive valve train noise.


That could have resulted in a catastrophic failure

It may be a good idea to clean up the theads with rubbing alcohol and apply some loctite to the treads and then torque 1-2 lbs extra.l

silencertk

i'm not touching them again. i might open up the cover to see if all is well, but honda did the adjustment. if anything brakes, i would assume they have the responsability, right?

Ek9

I wouldn't assume that. At best they'll pro-rate the engine and you'll probably end up paying for 1/2 of the repair. It's a 2002, you may end up footing the whole bill.

All they have to say is, "when it came in last time, someone unqualified had clearly been messing with it and that's probably what killed the engine".

Basically, if they came loose, you forgot to tighten them or something like that. Properly tightened bolts don't need locktight because the metal stretches when they're torqued correctly. Like a rubber band, pulling together. It's the stretching that makes the bolt/nut stay tight.

Billman250

Toss your torque wrench in the garbage a properly tightened locknut will not come loose. No locktite needed.