AusS2000

Hope I'm not stating the obvious, but you have removed the console, shifter, bolts that hold the rubber skirt under shifter wiring, and drive shaft?

Slows2k

Gotta have the upper starter bolt out, and the clutch fork pulled out. If the not, the trans isn't coming out. Even with all the other bolts out.

RACER

00s2k9k
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2000 Berlina Black/Red

S2KPANG

what he said.

00s2k9k

thanks..i didnt pull the fork out appreciate it!

C4SxM5

can someone go into more specifics on how to remove the "fork" out?

my motor and tranny are on a palet and i need to remove the tranny to ship it out but it won't come apart from the motor.

all bolts are off and and theres a inch gap between the tranny and motor but something is still holding the 2 together.

where is the fork (is it the metal piece that has a black rubber piece covering it? and how do you actually remove.

thanks guys!

Stratocaster

Remove the black rubber boot. PULL the fork straight out. it will not come out, until the fork is turned to one side and the tranny is off the block.

C4SxM5

thanks for the help! got the tranny off, now want to make sure i'm removing the act clutch, pp, and toda flywheel off correctly.

do i just need to remove the star looking bolts (picture attached) and any tips?




ps. i did a search in the DIY section and found this (just want to make sure theres nothing else missing) :

For the clutch you will need 12 point sockets, 10mm for the pressure plate, and 17mm for the flywheel.
I'll undo the PP bolts just by hand in a crisscross pattern, they aren't that tight. For the flywheel bolts,
I'll zip out those with a low power impact wrench so I don't need a flywheel holder. If you have a Toda
flywheel, you can use a 14mm deep socket through those holes to hold the FW. If not you can use a big
screwdriver or prybar to hold the starter teeth on the FW. When putting the tranny back in, remember to
have to alignment pins in place, and that perfect alignment between tranny/engine is just as important
as a clutch alignment tool. It will slip right on

RACER

I think a 12 point 3/8 drive socket will remove these bolt's, but I dun't know what the exact size of the socket is.

What ever you do, when you re-install the pressure plate, tighten each bolt about 1/2 turn at a time in a star pattern until they are all tight, and then do a final torque with a 3/8 drive torque wrench. Locktight isn't a bad idea since you hopefully dun't have to remove the transmission for quite a while.

The reason for tightening each bolt 1/2 turn at a time is to prevent warping of hte pressure plate. Tightening one or two bolts all hte way without tightening the others will warp the pressure plate. What that means is that when you engage the clutch from a standstill, the car will shake back and fourth and or have massive chatter, noise and vibrations while engaging the clutch.

Take yer time putting it all back together and dun't forget to go 1/2 to 3/4 turn on each bolt in a star pattern until they are all tight.

RACER

If you wanted to save the PP, I would also go 1/2 to 3/4 turn on each bolt in a star pattern when removing the PP as well.