Help with possible Master/Slave replace?
09-14-2016, 01:41 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Help with possible Master/Slave replace?
So, I'm decent at routine mechanic work, but I've never ventured into the clutch world.
About 7 years ago, I installed a turbocharger-in-a-box kit myself, and had it tuned. Ran fine, but had to sell the car a while back. That was about as deep as I've been mechanically.
I'm finally in another S2000, and I'm working on all the maintenance. I've gotten the oil/filter, trans fluid, diff fluid, done. I was planning to bleed the brakes, and clutch soon.
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This morning, leaving for work, it was damn near impossible to put it in reverse. I pumped the clutch pedal, and it angrily grinded into reverse. Once I was moving, it shifted a little tougher than usual. Much harder at a stop.
Now, I've googled, and searched here for this topic quite a bit. When I got home just now, I followed the clutch pedal up, and there was a black, tar/mud like substance all over the top of it. From what I've read, this is a master cylinder problem.
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I've found a few DIY guides on the master, and slave, and feel like it's something I can do myself. I already ordered some ATE TYP200 in preparation to bleed/flush the brakes and clutch.
I found a couple master cylinders on rockauto for ~$45~$60 made by "Centric" "Brute Power" "LUK" and "SACHS"
They've also got the slave cylinder for about $100-$115 made by "Centric" and "Wagner"
Would love some input/insight/advice! Thanks in advance!
About 7 years ago, I installed a turbocharger-in-a-box kit myself, and had it tuned. Ran fine, but had to sell the car a while back. That was about as deep as I've been mechanically.
I'm finally in another S2000, and I'm working on all the maintenance. I've gotten the oil/filter, trans fluid, diff fluid, done. I was planning to bleed the brakes, and clutch soon.
-------------------------------
This morning, leaving for work, it was damn near impossible to put it in reverse. I pumped the clutch pedal, and it angrily grinded into reverse. Once I was moving, it shifted a little tougher than usual. Much harder at a stop.
Now, I've googled, and searched here for this topic quite a bit. When I got home just now, I followed the clutch pedal up, and there was a black, tar/mud like substance all over the top of it. From what I've read, this is a master cylinder problem.
-------------------------------
I've found a few DIY guides on the master, and slave, and feel like it's something I can do myself. I already ordered some ATE TYP200 in preparation to bleed/flush the brakes and clutch.
I found a couple master cylinders on rockauto for ~$45~$60 made by "Centric" "Brute Power" "LUK" and "SACHS"
They've also got the slave cylinder for about $100-$115 made by "Centric" and "Wagner"
Would love some input/insight/advice! Thanks in advance!
09-14-2016, 02:22 PM
#2
Your CMC reservoir is probably dry. Keep fluid in your car at all times if you must keep driving it before you get around to replacing it.
Both are definitely DIYable.
CMC: just 2 nuts accessed above the pedal, 1 pin connecting the pedal to the end of the push rod and a hardline in the engine bay. Most difficult part of this is the tight area in the corner of the engine bay that you'll be working on to get the hardline attached, but it's not bad at all with some patience. Other than that, you just need to make sure the rod length is correct, which you can use the Helms for measurements or i usually just adjust it to match the CMC that i pulled out.
Slave: 2 bolts and a soft line. This is very easy, even easier than the CMC. Hardest part about this one is lining up the slave ball rod with the clutch fork since it's shrouded by the rubber clutch fork cover.
Both are definitely DIYable.
CMC: just 2 nuts accessed above the pedal, 1 pin connecting the pedal to the end of the push rod and a hardline in the engine bay. Most difficult part of this is the tight area in the corner of the engine bay that you'll be working on to get the hardline attached, but it's not bad at all with some patience. Other than that, you just need to make sure the rod length is correct, which you can use the Helms for measurements or i usually just adjust it to match the CMC that i pulled out.
Slave: 2 bolts and a soft line. This is very easy, even easier than the CMC. Hardest part about this one is lining up the slave ball rod with the clutch fork since it's shrouded by the rubber clutch fork cover.
09-14-2016, 02:39 PM
#3
Try bleeding air out before you start replacing stuff. If you have dirty fluid, your master cylinder will be leaking where the rod comes out from the firewall. This is common and may stop leaking once you have fresh fluid in the system. Unlike many other cars out there, the S2000 requires frequent fluid exchange to keep clean (remove fluid from reservoir with turkey baster, then replace).
If you must replace the master cylinder, get the Nissin brand at the least:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSIN-MADE-...pWaX3J&vxp=mtr
If you must replace the master cylinder, get the Nissin brand at the least:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSIN-MADE-...pWaX3J&vxp=mtr
I'll do the bleed this weekend then and report back if that solves it.
09-14-2016, 05:44 PM
#5
Look for the clutch bleed diy. After you turkey baster out all old fluid, wipe down with paper towels until its clean. Pour in fresh fluid. Gravity bleed. Make sure reservoir doesn't run dry during the process. Bleed until you get fresh, clean fluid coming out bleeder. Done.
Now, every other oil change, do the turkey baster paper towel thing, but no need to bleed unless there is a problem. Will keep you fluid clean, avoid future problems.
Now, every other oil change, do the turkey baster paper towel thing, but no need to bleed unless there is a problem. Will keep you fluid clean, avoid future problems.
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