S2WOOOW

You can also see the brake lever switch movement without removing the center console. It's a low probability that the switch movement is the problem, but will only take a minute to check. You will also see if there's any receipts down there too. Look down the left side of the brake lever with a flashlight. The switch is just below the center concole. Then move the lever up and down. If you see the electrical connector moving up and down, it's moving OK. If it's not, something is wrong, but most likely be stuck in the "Brake OFF" condition. If your neighbor or friend has a voltmeter with a long enough probe, he can check continuity without removing the center console. Tell him OPEN = lever down, CLOSED = lever up.

bigpurp

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Boit
[B]Also, since the parking brake is interlocked with the convertible top, just release the parking brake all the way, roll the windows down and see if the top will retract. If it DOES retract, you will know that the parking brake switch is "made" when it shouldn't be and the problem lies with the parking brake switch...or cable(s) If the top

bigpurp

[QUOTE]Originally posted by S2WOOOW
[B]You can also see the brake lever switch movement without removing the center console.

CoralDoc

Just curious: Does the top able to retract when the parking brake is engaged (up)? If so, the parking brake interlock is operating correctly. Yes, this is most perplexing, the next step is to check continuity at the fluid reservoir. Since you're local, I've sent contact information to you via PM. Feel free to give me a call and let's see if we can figure this out. I live close to Rick Case Honda.

bigpurp

Yes, the top does retract with the brake up.

Coral, thx for the offer. I'll give you a ring tomorrow morning. I'd love to be able to figure this out.

Boit

Looks like the parking brake switch is functioning properly so now you can look toward the fluid level switch. It's a float type so it shouldn't be all that hard to test and troubleshoot.

CoralDoc

We have a diagnosis - the brake fluid reservoir float ... doesn't.

There was conductivity at the switch even though the brake fluid level was full. A quick check with the VOM showed conductivity when the switch should have been open, and a look inside the reservoir revealed that the float had sunk! When the float was manually lifted up the light went out. Anyone else experience this one?

The Helm manual suggests that the reservoir/master cylinder assembly should be replaced as a unit, but it appears that the reservoir could be removed and replaced. I'm hoping that is true to make the fix less expensive for bigpurp. It doesn't appear possible to service the float inside the sealed plastic brake fluid reservoir.

bigpurp

Yep, it was that pesky floating device! It doesn't work!

Thx to everyone who weighed in on this one, but especially to CoralDoc, who went above & beyond the call of duty to help me diagnose the problem. I really don't know what I would do without this place...

wickerbill

Could this maybe be caused by the type of brake fluid being used? If the density of the fluid is different enough from the original fluid that the float was designed for it may not float.

Boit

Way cool! Thanks for the update.