HELP! Parking brake light won't go off...
08-25-2003, 11:19 AM
#41
Originally posted by Tedster
So they're charging you to replace many components of the brake system, based on faulty/no diagnosis? I would be having a firm discussion with the service manager.
So they're charging you to replace many components of the brake system, based on faulty/no diagnosis? I would be having a firm discussion with the service manager.
08-25-2003, 11:30 AM
#42
Originally posted by twohoos
Everyone,
I've had the BRAKE light come on many times after bleeding the fluid. It does indeed happen when the fluid level in the MC gets too low. However, it's not just an electronic "nanny", because the car doesn't have to be on when the fluid level drops for this light to be triggered. Therefore: Neither refilling the fluid NOR resetting the ECU will turn off the light! In fact, I have NO IDEA how to get that damn thing to turn off -- but I know from experience that it WILL turn off ON ITS OWN after a while. Usually it just takes a day or two, but the last time it happened to me it took nearly a MONTH. In the meantime, as long as you know what caused it to go on in the first place and you're sure everything's OK (i.e. brakes operating normally), there's no need for undue worry.
OTOH, it would be nice if someone figured out how to reset the damn light (some kind of OBDII trickery?). It's annoying as hell.
Cheers,
John
Everyone,
I've had the BRAKE light come on many times after bleeding the fluid. It does indeed happen when the fluid level in the MC gets too low. However, it's not just an electronic "nanny", because the car doesn't have to be on when the fluid level drops for this light to be triggered. Therefore: Neither refilling the fluid NOR resetting the ECU will turn off the light! In fact, I have NO IDEA how to get that damn thing to turn off -- but I know from experience that it WILL turn off ON ITS OWN after a while. Usually it just takes a day or two, but the last time it happened to me it took nearly a MONTH. In the meantime, as long as you know what caused it to go on in the first place and you're sure everything's OK (i.e. brakes operating normally), there's no need for undue worry.
OTOH, it would be nice if someone figured out how to reset the damn light (some kind of OBDII trickery?). It's annoying as hell.
Cheers,
John
08-25-2003, 12:34 PM
#43
Registered User
FYI... my brake light was on when I got in the S this weekend (after a track day at TMS last weekend). I popped the hood, and sure enough the fluid level was about 1/4 above the Min mark. Replaced all 4 pads (they had about 20-30% of the lining remaining), which pushed the fluid level back up near the Max mark, and the light went off the next time I started the car.
If your light is on when your fluid is at the proper level, you should have the sensors checked. You don't want to get in the habit of just ignoring it because "it's always on".
If your light is on when your fluid is at the proper level, you should have the sensors checked. You don't want to get in the habit of just ignoring it because "it's always on".
08-25-2003, 07:07 PM
#45
mxt, thx. I will have the sensors checked.
Coral, you might as well be speaking Swahili to me. Asking me to remove the center console and check "continuity" and "switch pins" is like asking a 2 yr old to tie their shoes and chew with their mouth closed at the same time. No way I can do it. Looks like Rick Case Honda's service dept is going to be getting a visit from me very soon.
Coral, you might as well be speaking Swahili to me. Asking me to remove the center console and check "continuity" and "switch pins" is like asking a 2 yr old to tie their shoes and chew with their mouth closed at the same time. No way I can do it. Looks like Rick Case Honda's service dept is going to be getting a visit from me very soon.
08-25-2003, 07:36 PM
#46
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Have you tried disconnecting the sensor wire at the brake master cylinder. If you unplug the connector, and the light goes out, then the problem is in the sensor in the brake master. Give this a try. It only take a minute.
08-28-2003, 12:02 AM
#48
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Also, since the parking brake is interlocked with the convertible top, just release the parking brake all the way, roll the windows down and see if the top will retract. If it DOES retract, you will know that the parking brake switch is "made" when it shouldn't be and the problem lies with the parking brake switch...or cable(s) If the top WILL NOT retract, you will know that the problem is not with the parking brake switch. The parking brake is actived via a single mechanical cable linked to an "equalizer" bracket. From this bracket, two separate cables tie into each rear caliper via another bracket, which in turn activates the hydraulics. By the way, the only sensors that are brake related are the ABS sensors. . .which are totally separate from the "BRAKE" light. There are only TWO switches that can cause the "BRAKE" indicator to come on and those two are the "low fluid switch" and the "parking brake" switch. What I described above will either eliminate or confirm a problem with the parking brake switch. If you eliminate the parking brake switch as the source, then you can concentrate on the "low fluid level" switch. Personally, I believe that you will find that when you hit the curb or some other debris, one of the parking brake cables, or brackets was damaged and is causing the switch to be "made".