Help needed! Engine broken at 165 MPH
06-28-2004, 05:53 AM
#23
Originally posted by kstokell
Does anyone know if the bottom end bearings can be replaced without removing the engine?
Does anyone know if the bottom end bearings can be replaced without removing the engine?
you will need to remove the oil pan and the gerdle (spelling)... and I think the oil pump...... then you will see the crank and the rods....check your cylinder walls for scoring while your down there...
I would first check the oil pan to see if you have any bearing material.... a blind man could spot bearing... it is the only thing in your engine that is copper...... if you got copper you got some bearing...not good.......
if you dont got no copper than I would test for play of your rods and check the clearence of yoru main bearings ..... all measurements are in the manual....
A new bottom end (short block) from Honda can cost anywhere from $1900 - $3000 depending on the dealer......
a new crank + bearings + oil pump = $1200...... for ordering new bearings (main and rod) you should check what number is in printed on your block and the rods..... the block should have 5 letters..... one letter for each main bearing..... each crank should have a number..... I think its 1 - 5.... remember these letters and numbers when your ordering the bearings.....
If it is bearing you will also have to drop your tranny..... (while your at it you might as well upgrade your clutch
).....Hope this helps......
Beroz
06-28-2004, 06:38 AM
#26
Originally posted by kstokell
I have just found that the compression should be 200 > 250 PSI with a difference of no more than 20 PSI between the cylinders.
Can anyone confirm this?
I have just found that the compression should be 200 > 250 PSI with a difference of no more than 20 PSI between the cylinders.
Can anyone confirm this?
06-28-2004, 07:56 AM
#27
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I've done a little more investigation.
I've removed the plugs and valve cover, the top end looks OK no broken springs or anything.
All the plugs looked great, except Cyl 4. (nearest the driver)which was a little sooty as though it was running slightly rich.
Maybe this pionts to a problem with the piston in Cyl 4. and the noise I'm getting is piston slap.
What do you all think?
If it is Cyl 4. do I have to replace the short block, or is there another solution?
Kevin
I've removed the plugs and valve cover, the top end looks OK no broken springs or anything.
All the plugs looked great, except Cyl 4. (nearest the driver)which was a little sooty as though it was running slightly rich.
Maybe this pionts to a problem with the piston in Cyl 4. and the noise I'm getting is piston slap.
What do you all think?
If it is Cyl 4. do I have to replace the short block, or is there another solution?
Kevin