Yellow Streak

I would tend to agree that something that measures the coolant temp while it is in the water jacket would be the best. You *should* get a more accurate reading in the water jacket than in a hose. Not needing to do some type of grounding of the sending unit is a plus.

-YS

cmnsnse

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Slows2k
[B] . . . The rubber radiator hose is a real crappy ground path.

xviper

Those of us in the colder climates have a block heater stuck in that spot.

Slows2k

This is my personal opinion, I prefer clean installation of any aftermarket part. I didn't want cut any coolant hose and have to deal with grounding the sender. I also wanted to keep the sender in the water jacket, to actually see block coolant temp. If the sender is in a smaller hose, especially above the coolant air bleed, the possibility of an air pocket forming exists. Which could make for an inaccurate reading. As far as those with block heaters, You are definitely in the minority, and you could use a external heater on the bottom of the oil pan if you wanted to use the block plug as the temp sender location. That is if you really wanted to. Yet again personal opinion, If you need a block heater, the S is not the car to drive in winter. Go buy a Pilot or an MDX. Now I can only figure out how to get pictures from my computer to the post I will have accomplished something.

Slows2k

On the middle pic, the green wire goes to the H2O temp sender. I did use the Greddy oil filter adapter for the oil pressure gauge. You can retain the stock filter. I have Autometer carbon fiber face gauges, Just because i like how they looked the best. To install the pod, I sectioned the original pillar trim, then used JB weld to epoxy the upper section with the stock retaining clip. I used 3M double stick tape to attach the lower half. The lower half covers the bottom gauge, I wanted to be able to remove it. I did this because no matter what I did I couldn't get the Pod to fit flush by surface mounting over the original pillar. I also used Honda connectors and pin terminals, to wire the gauges.I can unsnap my pod from the pillar and unplug to remove. I did this for ease of maintenance bulb changes, etc. I had several One pin accessory connectors to plug directly into the fuse box for the light power and gauge power. I also added a 2 pin connector to both senders that way the wiring under the hood can be separated more easily if the gauges ever come out of the car. I also cut open the defroster vent, I wish SOS would do the same.

vapors2k

when drilling out the hole for the sender on the plug on the side of the block, how did you manage to keep metal shavings from getting into the block and cooling system?

Yellow Streak

I believe he removed the plug, drilled it and tapped it.

-YS

Slows2k

You have to remove the plug to drill it properly, it would be next to impossible to drill still in the block. I had an extra plug, So I drilled and tapped it, then removed the original.

Russ

Grounded the sender this morning. All is fine. Temps in the 170-range.
Thanks guys!

xviper

And THIS is MY personal opinion............

I take great offense at this remark and I'm sure that there are dozens of other S2000 owners who have daily driven WINTER S2000's who feel the same. This kind of remark has, during the whole history of this car, been made by people who have ABSOLUTELY NO CLUE about driving this type of car (or maybe ANY car) in winter conditions.
Did you make this remark out of IGNORANCE? Or was it made out of some "limited" personal experience where a lack thereof made you shit your pants?
Go ahead and get your Pilot or MDX, equipped with those magnificent all season radials. Me and my snow tire equipped S2000 will drive rings around you.
Oh, and just one more ..............