Help, f20c locked - seized.
06-21-2016, 06:50 PM
#12
^ +1
Yeah when I read the title of the thread the first thing I looked for in your post was an aftermarket pressure plate. Sounds like you have one, I bet your thrust washer is toast and locked up your motor
You said you only have 500 miles in one year on the new clutch. How many times did you start the car in that year? During a cold start when you press the clutch in to start the car you put a lot pressure on the thrust washer. That's why a lot of people with upgraded clutches bypass the clutch interlock switch
Yeah when I read the title of the thread the first thing I looked for in your post was an aftermarket pressure plate. Sounds like you have one, I bet your thrust washer is toast and locked up your motor
You said you only have 500 miles in one year on the new clutch. How many times did you start the car in that year? During a cold start when you press the clutch in to start the car you put a lot pressure on the thrust washer. That's why a lot of people with upgraded clutches bypass the clutch interlock switch
06-21-2016, 09:10 PM
#13
06-21-2016, 09:56 PM
#14
Sounds like you seized the engine. Pistons seized onto cylinders. You can use a boroscope to inspect each cylinder.
JOC... was the tranny toast? As you replaced it.
Thanks!
JOC... was the tranny toast? As you replaced it.
Thanks!
06-22-2016, 05:16 AM
#15
Draining the oil would answer this question.
[/quote]
Dipstick is exactly at the full mark. I do my oil changes and I know how much oil they use.
06-22-2016, 05:19 AM
#16
^ +1
Yeah when I read the title of the thread the first thing I looked for in your post was an aftermarket pressure plate. Sounds like you have one, I bet your thrust washer is toast and locked up your motor
You said you only have 500 miles in one year on the new clutch. How many times did you start the car in that year? During a cold start when you press the clutch in to start the car you put a lot pressure on the thrust washer. That's why a lot of people with upgraded clutches bypass the clutch interlock switch
Yeah when I read the title of the thread the first thing I looked for in your post was an aftermarket pressure plate. Sounds like you have one, I bet your thrust washer is toast and locked up your motor
You said you only have 500 miles in one year on the new clutch. How many times did you start the car in that year? During a cold start when you press the clutch in to start the car you put a lot pressure on the thrust washer. That's why a lot of people with upgraded clutches bypass the clutch interlock switch
I thought only the ACT PP had that problem, and usually on boosted cars. Have anyone heard of a competition PP having this issue?
Also, if it was thrust washer, would the engine be free for at least 180 degrees or it would be completely locked?
500 miles, cranked the car maybe 3 or 4 times without driving it. The rest I drove it at least 30-40 miles every time I drove it.
06-22-2016, 05:21 AM
#17
If you are talking to me, I replaced my trans because third gear was grinding in the past.
06-22-2016, 05:25 AM
#18
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1466537077' post='23998811
Sounds like you dropped a valve on cylinder #4( against firewall) Valve drop's in cylinder, then gets mashed by the piston and plays havoc on head and usually block/cylinder bore. Your spark plug wouldn't come out because it was destroyed on the other end along with the valve all mashed up in cylinder, preventing piston from rising and therefore locking up engine. My guess is you can get about 180 degree rotation out of engine in either direction and that's it, wont do a full revolution. Id be extremely suspect of the retainer/keeper work replacement you had done. The very thing you were trying to prevent from happening.
This is too coincidental. I suspect either they had someone do the work who didn't do a good job, or the more likely they didn't replace all the retainers as they were supposed to, and you had cracked ones already which they were not privy to and thought they could get away with not replacing what you paid them to do without you ever knowing.
This is too coincidental. I suspect either they had someone do the work who didn't do a good job, or the more likely they didn't replace all the retainers as they were supposed to, and you had cracked ones already which they were not privy to and thought they could get away with not replacing what you paid them to do without you ever knowing.
"The valve is still in place. That's the whole thing I was checking when I pulled the cams. Of it dropped a valve, it wouldn't be in place still."
The stem could still be attached to the retainer, you still could have dropped a valve. Id pull the head. No special tools required.
Valve dropped, smashed spark plug making it damn near impossible to remove. Just pull the head.
06-22-2016, 05:43 AM
#19
06-22-2016, 06:00 AM
#20
Originally Posted by s2kimportlover' timestamp='1466541766' post='23998883
[quote name='s2000Junky' timestamp='1466537077' post='23998811']
Sounds like you dropped a valve on cylinder #4( against firewall) Valve drop's in cylinder, then gets mashed by the piston and plays havoc on head and usually block/cylinder bore. Your spark plug wouldn't come out because it was destroyed on the other end along with the valve all mashed up in cylinder, preventing piston from rising and therefore locking up engine. My guess is you can get about 180 degree rotation out of engine in either direction and that's it, wont do a full revolution. Id be extremely suspect of the retainer/keeper work replacement you had done. The very thing you were trying to prevent from happening.
This is too coincidental. I suspect either they had someone do the work who didn't do a good job, or the more likely they didn't replace all the retainers as they were supposed to, and you had cracked ones already which they were not privy to and thought they could get away with not replacing what you paid them to do without you ever knowing.
Sounds like you dropped a valve on cylinder #4( against firewall) Valve drop's in cylinder, then gets mashed by the piston and plays havoc on head and usually block/cylinder bore. Your spark plug wouldn't come out because it was destroyed on the other end along with the valve all mashed up in cylinder, preventing piston from rising and therefore locking up engine. My guess is you can get about 180 degree rotation out of engine in either direction and that's it, wont do a full revolution. Id be extremely suspect of the retainer/keeper work replacement you had done. The very thing you were trying to prevent from happening.
This is too coincidental. I suspect either they had someone do the work who didn't do a good job, or the more likely they didn't replace all the retainers as they were supposed to, and you had cracked ones already which they were not privy to and thought they could get away with not replacing what you paid them to do without you ever knowing.
"The valve is still in place. That's the whole thing I was checking when I pulled the cams. Of it dropped a valve, it wouldn't be in place still."
The stem could still be attached to the retainer, you still could have dropped a valve. Id pull the head. No special tools required.
Valve dropped, smashed spark plug making it damn near impossible to remove. Just pull the head.
[/quote]
I appreciate all the input, but so far nobody has mention anything about what I should replace before installing the "new" engine.
I have new motor mounts.
new plugs
Oil/filter
Antifreeze
Should I replace anything else while the "new" engine is out?