S2oooNvegas

Uhm..... your car didnt start before, and you had the incorrect reluctor wheel on the crankshaft. You then changed it, and the sensor that went with it.
Did you look there? Also what ecu are you using, and what cam sensors? Do you still have a hodgepodge of sensors, or are you certain you have all the correct sensors for that ecu?
I really doubt the harness is shorted. IF it was, the car would start and run, but throw codes. Not only that, but you would have had issues with the EMS, yet it worked fine. Sucks there are so few skilled techs left at the dealerships.

ECU Pirate

There is no hodge podge of sensors. I had to change out the crank pulser wheel because it was not the right one for the sensor. The car should start. Like I said before, I think the wiring harness is messed up where I installed and uninstalled the resistor box for the injectors. The new harness arrives tomorrow, I'll install it and see what happens.

The only other thing I can think of is this alarm I had installed at audio express when I lived in LV.

Groove_D

You said it yourself, the resistor box could be your problem. I'm not sure how it is on s2k but i had a turbo set up on d16 and when i installed resistor box, i soldered 4 wires together and they went into the resistor box, on the other side of the resistor box there were 4 wires that would go to the injectors. It could be the other way around but you get the idea. You don't have to replace the whole wiring harness if you can find the problem. Trace each wire to the injector the way it was before resistor box.
To check if your injectors are getting power, just put the noid light into the injector plug and if the noid light is flashing while you're cranking, you are getting power to the injectors.

S2oooNvegas

I thought you ended up with the late valve cover, and ems adjusted, all you had to change was the crank wheel. Thats why i said hodgepodge... hehe. I just wanted to say hodgepodge.

ECU Pirate

I am definitely going to trace the wires from where the resistor was. I just got another harness because the stock one is so hacked up from changing injector clips and map twice, and the resistor box wires on top of that.

Dave, yeah I changed back to my stock reluctor when I put in that 07 motor, because the 05 sensor didn't agree with the 07 wheel. I'm definitely going to work on it the first chance I get. Just been so busy

damuho

Can't be the alarm when it turns over and all you are missing is fuel. Alarms will disable the starter. Also very unlikely since you never touched it.

ECU Pirate

I just got done replacing the main engine wire harness! Now I'm just waiting on my battery to get done charging, and I should be able to fire her up!

Btw, for anyone replacing their main engine harness, don't let the dealer charge you 10.9 hours labor, like they quoted me! I replaced it in 4 hours by removing the intake manifold...

ECU Pirate

I got the battery fully charged, and tried to start it, and it wouldn't even turn over. Turns out some of the coolant from pulling the intake manifold got into the air intake ports. I got all the liquid out, and it turned over fine. But the immobi light was still flashing. I fully uninstalled the clusterf%&k alarm system, and the immobi light seemed to function correctly! But now, it still won't fire. It turns and turns, but won't fire up. I am going to replace the spark plugs because they got wet from the coolant.

I tried spraying carb cleaner into the throttle body, and it seemed like it wanted to fire a couple times. I think the only prob at this point may be just the plugs.

Does anyone know what this connector is for?



I came across it while uninstalling the aftermarket alarm. It is the gray connector with a single black and yellow wire going into it. It has a blue piece of tape holding it to another harness.

ECU Pirate

Bump for Anyone who can tell me what the above electrical connector is