B.Money

Hey guys, I could use a little advice!I went under there to check some things out, like the A-Arm brackets, all looks to be fine. While I was under there I figured I should make some adjustments to the camber to roughly see the "ranges" I have, and to even out the tires a little bit so it will drive a little straighter, for when I have to make the drive back to the shop.

Solved-- Ended up being a slight bend in the spindle and maybe lower arm. Thanks!

RacerXI

Have you had an alignment since the damage or replacement of parts? When you go landscaping, it tends to screw with your alignment.

B.Money

The shop I took it to implied that it would be a waste of my time and money to try to align it at this point, and told me they will throw it on the rack after I replace what is problematic.

I played with the alignment a lot, just to make the drive a little better on the way out there (only reputable shop was 1.5hrs drive), and I first put my attention to the drivers front. It looked to me like it had an unusual amount of positive camber, but I don't know much about this sort of thing. I dialed in as much positive camber as possible, and it still looked like it had a good amount of negative camber...maybe its normal.

B.Money

UPDATE: Slow right turns seem to be causing a popping in the left (driver) front. Pretty consistent in cul-de-sac's.

importkid

axle torque spec is 220. Tends to be a major cause of popping from the rear. Check upper control arm bolts. You can pick up a hub/knuckle and any other suspension parts pretty cheap used in good condition. I think I paid 100 bucks for a control arm and knuckle with good bearing, and lug studs.

importkid

Possible shifted subframe but I suspect more than likely you need to change the caster cams 180 over then see if you go negative with the camber. This is very tricky to figure out with pics and a screen. IIRC there is a setting on newer Hunter alignment machines that will walk you through a frame check to see if it's bent. Don't quote me on that though, I've not been around an alignment rack in a year except to do my own car.

Do you have a level at home? You can get them cheap at any home repair store. Put it flush on the wheel at the hub and take a pic so we have something to reference. The bubble will still be in or close to center but should be more to one side.

B.Money

Yep, sure do have a level. Should I put it flush against the hub with its current alignment (max positive camber L, max neg camber R), or something different?

Still noticing the drivers side has more negative camber, even with as much positive dialed in as possible. I was thinking possible subframe shift as well, since it seems to be effecting both wheels in polar opposites.

importkid

If you're actually seeing negative camber differences then you're way into the negative. I suggest finding a reputable alignment or body shop to look at your car.

Yes, put it against the wheel just like it is. If your level is big it might be hard to get it on the hub but you can get a block of wood and put it beside that for a good reading. I suspect if the bubble is out of the lines you're over -2.0 and probably more.

B.Money

Ok, sounds good, I'll snap some pics of that soon. I have taken my car to probably on of the most known shop in southern california, and thus far have been recommended to replace the passenger knuckle (which has been done) and now possibly the passenger A-arms since there hasn't been enough resolution. I just figure more eyes on the subject the better.


Solved-- Ended up being a slight bend in the spindle and maybe lower arm. Thanks!

VPS_AP1

heres a tip if you are adjusting your camber you are messing your toe up unless you know how to do an alignment without a computer which I doubt, there are probably a few people on here who could. I'm not trying to be mean but alignments are very touchy .08 of a degree of toe can cause tire wear and a pull. I'm the alignment specialist at my shop there could be several reasons why this is happening.

#1 you say you went off the road I'm wondering if the impact(from the right I'm assuming since you replaced stuff on the right rear) shoved the front engine cradle to the drivers side creating positive camber on the right and more negative camber on the left. there are 6 main bolts to the cradle if you loosen them (not to much just enough if you got a pry bar up there somehow to pry the frame back to the passenger side some there is a considerable amount of adjustment in the cradle alignment wise)

#2 if you have a print out of the alignment settings after they finished please take a picture and post it I'm wondering why a reputable shop would continue aligning even with the camber sitting like that and not come tell you unless after replacing the parts you didn't get an alignment? but a rule of thumb when aligning, the car will pull to the side with more positive CAMBER.

#3 caster can cause a pull whatever side is more negative(wheel more forward in the wheel well)

it is clear that you do have a bit of positive camber on the passenger side weather something is bent I cant tell. but I would start in this order set both sides of the camber to the same spot on the eccentric cams then go and loosen the 6 main cradle bolts and shift it to the passenger side till they are even enough you can also set the level on top of the tire an use your best judgment or find a spot on the cars frame and measure to the cradle and get them even(i would measure from 4 points like the corners of the cradle would be ideal)

now at this point your camber will not be in spec neither will your toe or caster but at least you'll have a clean slate for the alignment tech to do his job and get it right or be able to see what exactly is bent. which IMO your not to better off now. just hopefully you dont have to drive an hour and 30 min just to get there. there isn't a closer alignment shop?

BTW sorry for the bad grammar. if there's any other questions you can pm me. hope this helps and goodluck!