Help: 1st Throttle Body Engine Code, now Air Pump
#11
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Does strike anyone as a strange coincidence that it's throwing a Throttle body code, so that is replaced, then it starts throwing an air pump code before I leave the dealer lot?
It definitely seemed to exhibit TB symptoms like idle dipping, and sometimes stalling, and bucking.
It definitely seemed to exhibit TB symptoms like idle dipping, and sometimes stalling, and bucking.
#12
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The TPS code and the Air pump codes are totally different systems. The vaccum lines do run right next to the throttle body, it is possible to screw up the routing and set a P0411, for incorrect airflow.
A P0410 is for the actual Air pump not working.
A P0410 is for the actual Air pump not working.
#13
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I guess what I'm trying to determine is was the pump potentially bad before the TB replacement?
Are these codes prioritized and queued, so I would only see TB code until fixed, then air pump code would bubble to the top?
Or, is there only one code stored so it's first come first served?
Are these codes prioritized and queued, so I would only see TB code until fixed, then air pump code would bubble to the top?
Or, is there only one code stored so it's first come first served?
#14
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If multiple failures occur, multiple DTC's are stored. The test the PCM runs for the air pump won't run if a TPS code is stored though.
It's possible the pump was bad at the same time, but the PCM never ran the test due to the previously stored DTC.
It's possible the pump was bad at the same time, but the PCM never ran the test due to the previously stored DTC.
#15
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Findings:
Just got it back today, and my tech buddy found the air pump was "seized up." Had to replace that and a fuse.
Question/Thought:
I had numerous electrically related components recently give up the ghost.
1. Optima Yellow top
2. Throttle position sensor
3. JL 500/5 amp
4. Air pump
Items 2-4 all occured within a month of having the optima prematurely die(14 months) during an autocross test n' tune after leaving the blower fan running after shutoff. We had to jump the car to get it running to finish playing. The battery would not hold an overnight charge and had to be replaced.
Does anyone think that the battery dying or jumping the car could have resulted in these other components dying?
thx, mark
Just got it back today, and my tech buddy found the air pump was "seized up." Had to replace that and a fuse.
Question/Thought:
I had numerous electrically related components recently give up the ghost.
1. Optima Yellow top
2. Throttle position sensor
3. JL 500/5 amp
4. Air pump
Items 2-4 all occured within a month of having the optima prematurely die(14 months) during an autocross test n' tune after leaving the blower fan running after shutoff. We had to jump the car to get it running to finish playing. The battery would not hold an overnight charge and had to be replaced.
Does anyone think that the battery dying or jumping the car could have resulted in these other components dying?
thx, mark
#17
"This is direct from the Advanced OBDII diag On a P0411 from AHM:"
I stand corrected..the actual wording from the guy who wrote the software is:
"Two Trip Type "B" Faults"
The PCM must detect the fault condition on two consecutive trips to store a Type "B" DTC. The first time occurence of a fault for a two trip DTC is called a pending or, maturing, code, but won't turn on the MIL.
If the same fault is seen by the PCM on the next consecutive trip, the fault matures into a full blown DTC that is stored in memory and turns on the MIL.
Thanks for the catch Slow...my bad!
Utah
I stand corrected..the actual wording from the guy who wrote the software is:
"Two Trip Type "B" Faults"
The PCM must detect the fault condition on two consecutive trips to store a Type "B" DTC. The first time occurence of a fault for a two trip DTC is called a pending or, maturing, code, but won't turn on the MIL.
If the same fault is seen by the PCM on the next consecutive trip, the fault matures into a full blown DTC that is stored in memory and turns on the MIL.
Thanks for the catch Slow...my bad!
Utah
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re: checking for overcharging, is that something I can do with a voltmeter, or does my tech need to do?
Also, I had placed a schumacher batter starter charger on the dead yellow top overnight on 2 amp trickle charge while in the car, but I believe I tried the higher amp(10 or 12) setting as well as normal and deep cycle settings, as it indicated it was fully charged the second I turned it on. I since returned the charger, but I recall the instructions detailing how to connect while battery was in or out of the car.
Also, I had placed a schumacher batter starter charger on the dead yellow top overnight on 2 amp trickle charge while in the car, but I believe I tried the higher amp(10 or 12) setting as well as normal and deep cycle settings, as it indicated it was fully charged the second I turned it on. I since returned the charger, but I recall the instructions detailing how to connect while battery was in or out of the car.
#19
Former Moderator
You can check for overcharging with a voltmeter. Put your meter leads on the battery terminals and run the engine. The volts shouldn't be over 14.5V.
The meter won't be able to simulate an electrical load, you'll need to use a charging system analyzer for that. ( any decent shop will have one)
The meter won't be able to simulate an electrical load, you'll need to use a charging system analyzer for that. ( any decent shop will have one)
#20
hi, your problem is exactly like mine, i had my throttle bodty and sensor replaced and the CEL light came on after replacement, however, i'm just stupid and left the light on for a year, and waited until 3 days before i need the emissions test to take my car back to honda for the CEL examination, and they say i need to replace the air pump at 800 -900 $$.