Heatsoak resolutions?
#1
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Heatsoak resolutions?
Ok,
I'm tired of my car running like ass after I drive it around for more tha 30 minutes in the day. Such a loss in power it's ridiculous. My most fun with the car is when I first start it up in the morning and let the car warm up to 3 bars... What mods can I do to keep close to that performance? I know heatsoak is natural but I'm just looking for minor things to battle this - Will the Spoon snorkel - Mugen thermo/switch, Hondata IM help @ all or is it all just a big waste of money as most everything aftermarket with the S2 as far as performance goes seems to be? =/
I'm tired of my car running like ass after I drive it around for more tha 30 minutes in the day. Such a loss in power it's ridiculous. My most fun with the car is when I first start it up in the morning and let the car warm up to 3 bars... What mods can I do to keep close to that performance? I know heatsoak is natural but I'm just looking for minor things to battle this - Will the Spoon snorkel - Mugen thermo/switch, Hondata IM help @ all or is it all just a big waste of money as most everything aftermarket with the S2 as far as performance goes seems to be? =/
#2
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The Hondata heat insulator is a great item but it takes a lot of time and effort to install that into the car. The Mugen fan switch/rad cap/fan switch is another great way to help control some of the heat. You're in Miami, I'm in Hawaii so I guess we can kind of relate to each other's climates... so I think you can benefit a lot from the above mentioned mods.
The problem with the heat is that when the stock ECU senses knock, it backs off ignition timing (a lot) and reduces power... I'm wondering if this contributes to the bogging issues with the S2000 (in conjuction with the map sensor). The stock ECU appears to be very paranoid about knock and won't hesitate to be quick about pulling out a lot of timing, possibly too much effectively reducing power output.
The problem with the heat is that when the stock ECU senses knock, it backs off ignition timing (a lot) and reduces power... I'm wondering if this contributes to the bogging issues with the S2000 (in conjuction with the map sensor). The stock ECU appears to be very paranoid about knock and won't hesitate to be quick about pulling out a lot of timing, possibly too much effectively reducing power output.
#5
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Being in Hotlanta, am similarly frustrated so I'm making the following cooling mods:
1- Hondata gasket. yeah, four hours under the hood but worth it in the end.
2- Mugen cooling trio, key thing being the fan switch kicking in early.
3- Denso Iridium 24 plugs. One step cooler than stock.
4- Custom mods to stock air intake- Heatshielding on the airbox outside back and bottom. Ceramic fiber insulator on the complete interior of the airbox. New intake entry through the left side fed from the hole into the front right wheel well. Modify internal baffle wall. Close off the stock air entry and internal baffle hole. Will look very stock. Using the same oem intake tube for the tube going into the wheel well, just inverted. Keeping stock filter for now.
Will be taking before and after air intake temps(OBDII and thermal coupler probe) as well as SOTP measurements...as this is all theoretical at this point. FWIW, probe temperature at the filter at idle is up to 145 degrees F. +/- 2 degrees. That's with an 80 degree ambient temp.
Was going to do the snorkel but after studying things closer came up with this instead. A snorkel is in essence wrapped around a hot radiator and also blocks air flow to the radiator. Not my idea of a cooling mod. I don't subscribe to the ram effect theory on this car, either, since it is all negated at the filter. Plus, at speed isn't the problem. It's at idle and in traffic.
The hopes are about gaining only what is lost to heat bog, not gaining anything additional.
1- Hondata gasket. yeah, four hours under the hood but worth it in the end.
2- Mugen cooling trio, key thing being the fan switch kicking in early.
3- Denso Iridium 24 plugs. One step cooler than stock.
4- Custom mods to stock air intake- Heatshielding on the airbox outside back and bottom. Ceramic fiber insulator on the complete interior of the airbox. New intake entry through the left side fed from the hole into the front right wheel well. Modify internal baffle wall. Close off the stock air entry and internal baffle hole. Will look very stock. Using the same oem intake tube for the tube going into the wheel well, just inverted. Keeping stock filter for now.
Will be taking before and after air intake temps(OBDII and thermal coupler probe) as well as SOTP measurements...as this is all theoretical at this point. FWIW, probe temperature at the filter at idle is up to 145 degrees F. +/- 2 degrees. That's with an 80 degree ambient temp.
Was going to do the snorkel but after studying things closer came up with this instead. A snorkel is in essence wrapped around a hot radiator and also blocks air flow to the radiator. Not my idea of a cooling mod. I don't subscribe to the ram effect theory on this car, either, since it is all negated at the filter. Plus, at speed isn't the problem. It's at idle and in traffic.
The hopes are about gaining only what is lost to heat bog, not gaining anything additional.
#6
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Lets hear from some of you snorkel-only owners out there. Does it really make any difference in the around town, in-traffic, stop light to stop sign bogging? Since I bought my S in the middle of winter this is my first bog season and it's more of an issue than I thought it was going to be...
ron
ron
#7
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I had an incident w/ heatsoak for the first time awhile back in my S, I took some hose and mounted it in the front grill running through to the airbox and stuffed it next to the air filter. No more heat soak ever since
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#9
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I agree with Hyper X. I used to have the bogging issues in Hawaii then switched to all the Mugen goodies with a vented hood and SS front and CAI and the bogging issues went away until yesturday afternoon. It happened right before I went up to The Bay Area. Anyway I did install a new MAP sensor about 2 months ago and yesturday I just reset my VAFC 2 and the problem went away which made me wonder. Anyway I talked with a few of my friends with S2000s and they said they had similar issues with the timing issue and both of them either had a VAFC or aftermarket ECU. Anyway I am going to re-adjust my settings and have it tuned again and see if that rids the problem. I may have to go the gasket route now. But I dont have the bogging in traffic issues anymore, its just a once a years timing/bogging issue. I really think its a fuel/air problem which brings me back to my VAFC....