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Originally Posted by Slows2k,Jun 28 2006, 07:15 PM
When you turn on the A/C both cooling fans run- that's why the temp drops.
The stock fan switch doesn't close to 199deg F. It wasn't running hot enough to worry.
Thanks for the reply, I guess I understand. So it has nothing to do with being supercharged. I always thought that running the heater on high was the best way to bring down the ECT. Is the A/C trick better at bringing down ECT? I'd imagine it's quite a bit more bearable.
Originally Posted by OGPackin,Jun 28 2006, 07:31 PM
Wow! 220 - 230..? My tunner set my engine kill at 220f. Thats why iv been so worried. But that was before i had my water temp gauge installed. Was that just being overly cautious because i didnt have a gauge? Should i talk to him about increasing that?
As I said, that was an extraordinary circumstance that it hit 230 (near 38*C ambient). I'm usually under 210 in hot weather, city driving. Hiway has always seen much lower temps.
Sometimes, having information that you didn't have before can be alarming. Remember that water boils at 212. Under pressure, like in a car's cooling system, it won't boil till well over 230. With a good rad cap, I think we wouldn't even see steam come out till it approaches 240.
In your climate (high heat and humidity), I don't think you need to increase it. I don't see that kind of heat and humidity more than maybe once a year and I have to drive far away to find it.
Like Slow indicated, at times when my coolant temp climbs way above normal boiling temp (100C or 212F) and if I don't have enough road speed to push lots of air through the rad, I'll hit the A/C button and leave the fan switch on the lowest setting to not put anymore heat into the system than necessary. With both fans running, I can generally pull the coolant temp down 5 to 8 degrees within a couple of minutes. I haven't encountered REALLY hot, low road speed conditions that would prompt me to use another trick. This one's not for the faint of heart. In addition to the above A/C trick, turn the heater knob to full HOT, set the air to come out the high level vents only and direct them out the sides. This uses the heater core as another radiator. It's not dramatic for this car as the cooling system is so good, but for emergencies or for older cars, this will make the difference between boiling over or getting home.
This one's not for the faint of heart. In addition to the above A/C trick, turn the heater knob to full HOT, set the air to come out the high level vents only and direct them out the sides. This uses the heater core as another radiator. It's not dramatic for this car as the cooling system is so good, but for emergencies or for older cars, this will make the difference between boiling over or getting home.
Excellent, that was my next question, if heat with A/C would work even better. I always assumed that running the A/C (extra load) was not a good thing in stop and go traffic. You live, you learn. Thanks again everyone for the info, sorry for the hijack.
The heater core is approx 1/4 the size of the radiator. Using the heater to drop coolant temp is a last ditch effort to keep the engine running before it cooks. The Radiator is the main heat exchanger, and needs to be full of coolant, witha good airflow accross the core.
Turning on the cooling fans (with the AC) is most noticeable in stop and go traffic. If you are traveling over 20mph, enough air is coming through the grill opening to adaquately cool the radiator.
Some of the road race cars don't even have cooling fans, as they are traveling fast enough most of the time that a fan isn't required.
Running the AC does put another heat source in front of the radiator, the condensor.
The refrigerant in the AC system gets compressed then must cool in the condensor before going to the Evaporator.
Did you ever wonder how a older Corvette or Camaro can not have a grill opening and not run hot? They use a lower airdam that ducts air over the radiator core while moving. Without the air dam they will run hot.
Like I said, the car is still in safe limits but it was a big increase all of a sudden. I think the lower air dam wouldn't be the same since there is also a intercooler there that's blocking off the flow anyways.
Originally Posted by OGPackin,Jun 29 2006, 02:11 AM
Ok, heres the deal...... Since i installed my J's Racing kit my cars been heating up. Before the J's bumper my water temp would ping pong between 170 - 190f. As soon as it hit 190 the mugen therm. would bring it back to 170, and so on. And if it went over 190f, all i had to do was turn on my a/c and it would immediately drop under 190. Now im running between 190 - 210ish. My oil temp sometimes goes upto 111c ( sorry my oil temp is in c ). Before my oil temp would hardly ever hit 100c.
If you havent seen a real J's Racing bumper its two separate pieces ( see pics below ). The bumper has something like a front defuser that connects to the bottom and completes the bumper. Well, the front defuser piece goes really far back and completely covers the radiator and my oil cooler. I took my car to my mechanic and we decided to drill 5 - 3inch holes in the under defuser to help bring in some air from underneath. That didnt really help any. So i went to Home Depot and found a small aluminum a/c went ( see pics below ) and used double sided tap to and taped the vent over the holes to help divert the air back up into the rad/oil cooler area. It has helped, but not as much as id hoped. My water temp is now hovering around 188 - 200ish. Its not back to where it was pre J's bumper so im a little worried about over heating. Am i overreacting? Are my temps really not that bad now. Or should i look to do something more?? I havent changed the radiator yet. Lets just say i bought one, but got screwed over...Anyway, let me move on before i go off about the radiator. Would going with a Koyo or some other aftermarket radiator help?? Can you guys give me some suggestions?
Thanks for your help!!
I see from your sign that you have the AEM EMS,
The AEM EMS do not work well with Mugen/Spoon/other Fan switch and Thermostat than OEM
try to install the OEM and check your temp levels.
06-28-2006, 07:50 PM
