Heard Big Thump - car broken down
#11
Registered User
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by fltsfshr' date='Jan 21 2009, 11:28 PM
That sound was your ring and pinion leaving.
You described it perfectly.
fltsfshr
You described it perfectly.
fltsfshr
its a 00 Ap1 with 60k on it, I don't drive it hard at all.
Am I better off getting something better put in or just go with OEM ?
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by s2kadrenalin' date='Jan 21 2009, 04:01 PM
#14
Originally Posted by STAIN' date='Jan 21 2009, 03:33 PM
Thanks, why would this happen?
its a 00 Ap1 with 60k on it, I don't drive it hard at all.
Am I better off getting something better put in or just go with OEM ?
its a 00 Ap1 with 60k on it, I don't drive it hard at all.
Am I better off getting something better put in or just go with OEM ?
You can have one built for you that is much stronger by puddydad on here. He builds as bulletproof a one as you can get.
Ben (puddydad) is a good guy to ask to advice. Drop him a note. He has lots of differentials and maybe has what you need.
Good Luck
fltsfshr
#15
same thing happened to me. its you axle joint unless it still moves then its your diff. and the reason this normally happens is becuase people who lower thier cars and forget to put in some spacer and theres way to much stress on your axles and your drive shaft
#17
Put a Miata/MX5 1800cc crownwheel and pinion in it.
My 2000 model pinion was riddled with cracks at 30,000km. It looked like when you twist a curtain rope and it starts to unwind.
I think there was a manufacturing problem on some the 2000 model CWP sets. They seem to fail without too much curry. I've raced on the Mazda one for a few years with no dramas.
My 2000 model pinion was riddled with cracks at 30,000km. It looked like when you twist a curtain rope and it starts to unwind.
I think there was a manufacturing problem on some the 2000 model CWP sets. They seem to fail without too much curry. I've raced on the Mazda one for a few years with no dramas.
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by fltsfshr' date='Jan 22 2009, 06:47 AM
I don't know how you drive. There are some alternatives such as an ap2 differential and prop shaft. The ap2 differential case is identical but it's tempered differently. The prop shaft is different as well, you have to change a coupler at the tranny. You could probably swap it out with a good used one and go another 60k too. That would be the cheapest way to go.
You can have one built for you that is much stronger by puddydad on here. He builds as bulletproof a one as you can get.
Ben (puddydad) is a good guy to ask to advice. Drop him a note. He has lots of differentials and maybe has what you need.
Good Luck
fltsfshr
You can have one built for you that is much stronger by puddydad on here. He builds as bulletproof a one as you can get.
Ben (puddydad) is a good guy to ask to advice. Drop him a note. He has lots of differentials and maybe has what you need.
Good Luck
fltsfshr
I would just go OEM parts i think once i find out the problem...
how common is it on the S2000 for this to happen?
#19
Originally Posted by jyeung528' date='Jan 21 2009, 01:26 PM
^
that's not really an accurate explanation of why it happens.
spacers to not relieve stress on the drive shaft.
that's not really an accurate explanation of why it happens.
spacers to not relieve stress on the drive shaft.
#20
Registered User
spacers change the contact area in the cv joint.
the problem with the diff is completely unrelated to lowering the vehicle, and unrelated to contact area in the cv joint.
we'll see when the problem is diagnosed and fixed...
the problem with the diff is completely unrelated to lowering the vehicle, and unrelated to contact area in the cv joint.
we'll see when the problem is diagnosed and fixed...