Headgasket overheating disaster
02-01-2016, 09:17 PM
#12
Top of pistons in cylinders 1 & 2 look like they may have gotten "steam cleaned" by the coolant leaking past head gasket.
02-02-2016, 12:01 AM
#13
This motor definitely looks like it burns oil. That black cake on the piston tops and esp cylinder 1 and 2 valves/combustion chamber is from oil residual over many miles. Its not uncommon, but all depends on severity. Id say your valve guides and seals are likely the biggest culprit based on the good condition of your cylinder bores.
02-02-2016, 08:36 AM
#14
$175 doesn't sound like it includes any machine work, like grinding valve seats or replacing valve guides. It must only include replacing valves, seals, and quickly lapping the valve seats.
What do people usually do when rebuilding these heads? 3 angle valve job, 5 angle? Do the valve guides usually need replacing? What is the best way, pressing in a new guide? Made out of what metal?
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
What do people usually do when rebuilding these heads? 3 angle valve job, 5 angle? Do the valve guides usually need replacing? What is the best way, pressing in a new guide? Made out of what metal?
Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup
02-02-2016, 12:03 PM
#15
The valve seats come with 4 angle valve jobs from the factory, doing a 3 angle will actually lose you power.
02-07-2016, 07:38 PM
#18
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Update: I've gotten the head back from City Motor Supply in Dallas. Apparently I had 5 bent valves that needed replacing. They also did the seals and deck. They also did one hell of a job cleaning this thing. I think I can eat off it. All in was $260.
[attachment=90820:IMG_0079.JPG][attachment=90821:IMG_0080.JPG][attachment=90822:IMG_0081.JPG]
With that said, let's get back to the block. I went ahead and cleaned off the piston tops with a wire brush. I used a soft nylon brush on the deck and in the bridges, I think it really was just some carb washed onto them from the coolant. I think the block should be good, but the opinion in here is 50/50. This leads me to think I should go ahead and pull the block and get it into these masters of restorations at City Motor Supply. Have them check bores, the deck, and the piston rings.
[attachment=90823:IMG_0082.JPG]
As I am now used to not having the car for now, I may use this opportunity to do some other things. First and foremost is to give the bay a nice coat of paint. I've got new spray gear and wouldn't mind using the bay as my practice bed and to ensure I've got a good color match. My fenders, bumpers, and side panels are the ultimate goal. I also have Fortune coilovers on order. This thing is going to be up for a while.
Any advice on pulling the block? Can I cut costs by disassembling it? Pulling the pan and pump and pistons and then chain and shaft - that way I can just lift off the mid-block? Or should I just drop tranny and lift the block as a whole and get it to them? I'm not sure what they'll add in cost to take apart the rest, though I am sure they are better equipped to handle the components properly.
I only ask these things as I, again, have never really had to deal with blocks. I don't mind hours on youtube while getting my already grease laden manual covered in yet more grease while laying on the floor. I've got my car lifted a good foot and a half up and have a shop crane and tranny jack - etc. And I do enjoy a challenge. Time spent with hands on this car is time spent knowing more about this car.
Long term plans include Science of Speed turbo, but only after I have engine in perfect condition and have all body work done.
[attachment=90820:IMG_0079.JPG][attachment=90821:IMG_0080.JPG][attachment=90822:IMG_0081.JPG]
With that said, let's get back to the block. I went ahead and cleaned off the piston tops with a wire brush. I used a soft nylon brush on the deck and in the bridges, I think it really was just some carb washed onto them from the coolant. I think the block should be good, but the opinion in here is 50/50. This leads me to think I should go ahead and pull the block and get it into these masters of restorations at City Motor Supply. Have them check bores, the deck, and the piston rings.
[attachment=90823:IMG_0082.JPG]
As I am now used to not having the car for now, I may use this opportunity to do some other things. First and foremost is to give the bay a nice coat of paint. I've got new spray gear and wouldn't mind using the bay as my practice bed and to ensure I've got a good color match. My fenders, bumpers, and side panels are the ultimate goal. I also have Fortune coilovers on order. This thing is going to be up for a while.
Any advice on pulling the block? Can I cut costs by disassembling it? Pulling the pan and pump and pistons and then chain and shaft - that way I can just lift off the mid-block? Or should I just drop tranny and lift the block as a whole and get it to them? I'm not sure what they'll add in cost to take apart the rest, though I am sure they are better equipped to handle the components properly.
I only ask these things as I, again, have never really had to deal with blocks. I don't mind hours on youtube while getting my already grease laden manual covered in yet more grease while laying on the floor. I've got my car lifted a good foot and a half up and have a shop crane and tranny jack - etc. And I do enjoy a challenge. Time spent with hands on this car is time spent knowing more about this car.
Long term plans include Science of Speed turbo, but only after I have engine in perfect condition and have all body work done.
02-07-2016, 08:45 PM
#19
Hope this all works out for you. Did they mill the head surface? Can you use the OEM head gasket? Or do you need an oversized one?
Assembly tips would be follow service manual... exp torqueing techniques and specs. Keep work area as clean as possible. I'd replace all gaskets and rubber seals. Use good assembly lube on appropriate parts.
Good luck!
Assembly tips would be follow service manual... exp torqueing techniques and specs. Keep work area as clean as possible. I'd replace all gaskets and rubber seals. Use good assembly lube on appropriate parts.
Good luck!
02-08-2016, 07:08 PM
#20
What's that paste like stuff on the keepers? Assembly lube?
You can unbolt the transmission from the chassis, and just eek out enough room to pull the engine and box through the engine bay. Go slow and fish out the wiring harnesses that are left on the box and anywhere else. I hope you're properly recovering the A/C system
. Dropping the box makes it much easier to physically remove it from the engine bay, but requires more work. Even more work is just dropping the whole sub frame engine and transmission. I don't know any other way to do it.
No matter what you do, you'll have to drop the subframe a tad, lock the wheel and mark that coupler, and careful with those EPS wires.
You can unbolt the transmission from the chassis, and just eek out enough room to pull the engine and box through the engine bay. Go slow and fish out the wiring harnesses that are left on the box and anywhere else. I hope you're properly recovering the A/C system
. Dropping the box makes it much easier to physically remove it from the engine bay, but requires more work. Even more work is just dropping the whole sub frame engine and transmission. I don't know any other way to do it.No matter what you do, you'll have to drop the subframe a tad, lock the wheel and mark that coupler, and careful with those EPS wires.