Soviet

In the process of dropping my trans I began to remove my header and stripped two (the lower ones) of the seven nuts that attach the header to the studs on the head.
I read a DIY guides and there were no special instructions for taking off the nuts. I can't seem to get a socket on them at the right angle since the header pipes seem to get in the way. I have attacked it with a 1/2" ratchet with deep sockets/short sockets and a 3/8" ratchet with sockets. I even tried to reach them from below with a wrench but I wasn't able to get enough torque to break them loose.

Now they are stripped.

I have two questions.

What is the best way to remove these?
What should I do now that these nuts are stripped?
- I thought about purchasing a dremel but I'm not even sure if the attachments will reach the nut.

pics for reference.

V6 Donut

id hammer over a slightly smaller standard socket over the rounded nut with an extra long cheater bar and use as little heavy impact jerking as possible.

noodels

Could get a drift or blunt chisel on the one visible in picture
also put the other nuts on to pull tight

Slowcrash_101

Grip tite sockets. http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Tite-Supe.../dp/B003M68V6E

I think they have them at the auto parts store. They usually work.

Soviet

The problem is that there is absolutely not space. Less than a two finger gap.

Soviet

WOW. That looks amazing. I think that, coupled with a swivel socket set may be what I'm looking for.

I not only need something for the stripped nut but also something that can handle the angle so I don't f@#k it up again.

99SH

Swivel sockets have always worked for me. There should be plenty of room to put a wrench on the nut to break it loose.

windhund116

Easier to get to it, from the bottom?

Soviet

Do you mean from below? From above there is definitely no room.

dagle

The one in the last picture looks like you could reach it with a wrench from underneath the 4th runner. If not, see if a long extension will do the trick. In both cases, attach a pipe for more leverage if need be. The header nuts/studs were kind of designed so that they could be taken out with standardized sockets by most mechanics. The header you have on the other hand, I'm not so sure.