Has anyone gotten any benefit they can prove from a CAI?
07-10-2003, 09:58 AM
#31
Originally posted by dolebludger
[B.... additional air source from the fender well (where the PRM, for example, gets all its air). [/B]
[B.... additional air source from the fender well (where the PRM, for example, gets all its air). [/B]
07-10-2003, 10:23 AM
#32
Originally posted by cdelena
It appears to me that the PRM gets ALL its air from the engine compartment behind the radiator.. it just happens to point it's inlet at the hole in the inner fender.
It appears to me that the PRM gets ALL its air from the engine compartment behind the radiator.. it just happens to point it's inlet at the hole in the inner fender.
Richard, as for your enquiries into the CM system, I don't think there are many of these out there and that's why noone has given you any "real world" impressions. I believe few owners want to destroy their stock airbox to this extent in case they need to put it back one day. I thought that when this system is in place, the stock airhorn is blocked. There really is no point to having an alternate air source if the airbox still draws hot air in the "old" way.
07-10-2003, 12:56 PM
#36
Thread Starter
xviper and all:
I apparently am in need of some additional education on the matter of engine air induction. I have been operating under the assumption that the MAIN problem with the stock airbox set up was not so much that the air entering the snorkel was hot, but rather that the relatively small size of the snorkel constituted a point of blockage of air, without which the filter and intake tube would normally take in more air. I have understood that this was part of the airbox's design compromise in favor of noise reduction.
I had thought that the matter of "hot and cold" came into play when some sought the obvious (on the surface) solution of removing the airbox top -- or the whole airbox -- and ending up with essentially a short ram. I had understood that the problem with this set up is hot air is then present all around the filter element, and that's what gets inducted, and that's bad. So, I have been under the impression that the whole CAI question is involved with how to make a greater volume of air available to the filter element than is provided by the stock snorkel, while still keeping the air fairly cool. I had never understood before that the stock snorkel and baffle system failed to allow the intake air to be as cool as possible --- just that it didn't allow enough in.
If I have been operating under misunderstandings, please correct me, as I'm here to learn.
On the issue of the PRM intake not connecting with the hole to the fender well, it is true it does not, and the PRM's horn end is just aimed that way. The designer of the PRM told me by phone yesterday that fairly cool air blows into the engine bay from that hole while driving, whether the little "fake grill" on that side is cut out or not. He chose not to connect the intake end with the hole, due to the remote possibility of water being splashed into that fender cavity, and that his tests showed no real benefit in so connecting anyway. He further told me that Honda had originally planned to draw air from this hole in stock form, but changed plans due to noise issues. This all is just what I was told, of course, so I can't swear to the truth of it. But I came away with the understanding that the PRM gave better performance than the stock snorkel, box, and baffle set up not so much due to cooler air being drawn in but because of a greater volume of it being drawn, due to the fact that the PRM's intake tube is larger than the snorkel.
Any comments and/or corrections will be welcome.
Thanks,
Richard
I apparently am in need of some additional education on the matter of engine air induction. I have been operating under the assumption that the MAIN problem with the stock airbox set up was not so much that the air entering the snorkel was hot, but rather that the relatively small size of the snorkel constituted a point of blockage of air, without which the filter and intake tube would normally take in more air. I have understood that this was part of the airbox's design compromise in favor of noise reduction.
I had thought that the matter of "hot and cold" came into play when some sought the obvious (on the surface) solution of removing the airbox top -- or the whole airbox -- and ending up with essentially a short ram. I had understood that the problem with this set up is hot air is then present all around the filter element, and that's what gets inducted, and that's bad. So, I have been under the impression that the whole CAI question is involved with how to make a greater volume of air available to the filter element than is provided by the stock snorkel, while still keeping the air fairly cool. I had never understood before that the stock snorkel and baffle system failed to allow the intake air to be as cool as possible --- just that it didn't allow enough in.
If I have been operating under misunderstandings, please correct me, as I'm here to learn.
On the issue of the PRM intake not connecting with the hole to the fender well, it is true it does not, and the PRM's horn end is just aimed that way. The designer of the PRM told me by phone yesterday that fairly cool air blows into the engine bay from that hole while driving, whether the little "fake grill" on that side is cut out or not. He chose not to connect the intake end with the hole, due to the remote possibility of water being splashed into that fender cavity, and that his tests showed no real benefit in so connecting anyway. He further told me that Honda had originally planned to draw air from this hole in stock form, but changed plans due to noise issues. This all is just what I was told, of course, so I can't swear to the truth of it. But I came away with the understanding that the PRM gave better performance than the stock snorkel, box, and baffle set up not so much due to cooler air being drawn in but because of a greater volume of it being drawn, due to the fact that the PRM's intake tube is larger than the snorkel.
Any comments and/or corrections will be welcome.
Thanks,
Richard
07-10-2003, 01:08 PM
#37
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I'll reiterate that it is VERY RARE to hydrolock a motor from water ingestion from rain. If you do happen to do this (from rain water), you are most likely an idiot and you drove through a puddle that came up past your door.
I had a CAI on my last car and it was at the bottom of the car. There was a torrental downpour and I had to drive through a semi deep puddle to get home. The puddle came up to the bottom seal of my door and my engine was fine. Never even stalled.
Here is a test for you guys that are deathly afraid of hydrolock.
1) Take your intake tube loose from the air box.
2) Start your motor.
3) Get out of the car and go back to the engine bay.
4) Cover the intake tube with your hand.
5) The car will stall and you will fell like your hand is about to be sucked in the intake.
Moral of the story. If your intake comes in solid contact(completely submerged), with a puddle, the engine will most likely stall before it get's hydrolocked. Unless you are one of the dumb ones that want to rev the shit out of the motor prior to entering the puddle. If this happens, you deserve to have your motor hydrolocked because you are dumb.
I am not directing this at anyone so don't take it personal. But hydrolock is a hyped up myth that is a VERY rare occurence.
I had a CAI on my last car and it was at the bottom of the car. There was a torrental downpour and I had to drive through a semi deep puddle to get home. The puddle came up to the bottom seal of my door and my engine was fine. Never even stalled.
Here is a test for you guys that are deathly afraid of hydrolock.
1) Take your intake tube loose from the air box.
2) Start your motor.
3) Get out of the car and go back to the engine bay.
4) Cover the intake tube with your hand.
5) The car will stall and you will fell like your hand is about to be sucked in the intake.
Moral of the story. If your intake comes in solid contact(completely submerged), with a puddle, the engine will most likely stall before it get's hydrolocked. Unless you are one of the dumb ones that want to rev the shit out of the motor prior to entering the puddle. If this happens, you deserve to have your motor hydrolocked because you are dumb.
I am not directing this at anyone so don't take it personal. But hydrolock is a hyped up myth that is a VERY rare occurence.
07-10-2003, 01:39 PM
#39
Registered User
Well, you can hydrolock without even moving the engine :-). But did the starter actually crank the motor over and break something Chris?
Ben, take a bucket of water and dip your intake into it. The reason your engine will stall is because it is starved of air. It won't run out of air till the water replaces it. When that happens, stuff can break.
Again, it isn't common, but it can happen.
UL
Ben, take a bucket of water and dip your intake into it. The reason your engine will stall is because it is starved of air. It won't run out of air till the water replaces it. When that happens, stuff can break.
Again, it isn't common, but it can happen.
UL
07-10-2003, 02:15 PM
#40
Thread Starter
I am fully convinced that Webster's Dictionary about 10 years from now will define "hydrolock" as follows: "A diagnosis for serious mechanical failure of an internal combustion engine usually fabricated by Honda dealers as a way to deny warranty coverage on the effected automobile."
Note that this definition contains the word "usually." Parts of the US periodically have torrential rains of 6" or more in a couple of hours, where the street drainage system is wholly unable to prevent flash street flooding. I live in such an area (Okla. City). That's why I wish to avoid any form of low-hanging air induction system, as the situation described above could actually happen here. If I lived in a different climate, I'd feel differently about them.
Thanks,
Richard
Note that this definition contains the word "usually." Parts of the US periodically have torrential rains of 6" or more in a couple of hours, where the street drainage system is wholly unable to prevent flash street flooding. I live in such an area (Okla. City). That's why I wish to avoid any form of low-hanging air induction system, as the situation described above could actually happen here. If I lived in a different climate, I'd feel differently about them.
Thanks,
Richard