cdelena

I hate resetting the ECU by pulling the fuse, IMO relearning the idle and fuel trim is a PITA making the car less enjoyable for a period of time. I just let it learn a new component over time.

I will say again that the Mugen intake was clearly better than others in my experience and I am sorry I ignored advice from some very credible people and waited to get one. IMO it helped performance throughout the engine range and I was pleased that it has more of a growl than the stock intake but without the loud wail of the others. You will have to decide worth for yourself, but I am satisfied with my decision.

xviper

None what so ever. I've done this on stock cars and on mine, which has many electronic things installed.

jehman

I was wondering, did you pay the full price for the Mugen? I don't mean to be condecending but at $1500 for an intake, which at most can give you 10hp (more likely 5-8) you are talking at best $150/hp! I've been looking at mods to increase power for about a year now trying to decide the most "bang-for-the-buck" and in general most everything on our car comes out to around $50/hp. Granted this is a nice looking unit and I know many friends that don't mind spending a lot of money on something to make it bling-bling, but it seems like you must be able to get this unit somewhere closer to $500? Am I missing something that they are not showing at the Kingmotorsports site?

Again, this isn't meant to be a flame because everyone is entitled to spend whatever they can afford (and sometimes more ) on a car. But I would venture that this mugen unit probably makes only about 2-3hp more than the one I fabricated at home for $15 and a few hours of work.

cdelena

[QUOTE]Originally posted by jehman
[B]

I was wondering, did you pay the full price for the Mugen?

Russ

The easiest way to mod the PRM to its fullest potential is to route some plumbing from the front of the car (no grille, unless you remove the grille in front of the plumbing only) and snake it up into the engine bay stopping about one inch short of the PRM horn. This pretty much eliminates most of the ill effects from the radiator (any air going into the piping isn't going to stay in there long enough to be heated by ambient temps inside that section of the engine bay) but the problem is maintaining the same diameter of plumbing up into the PRM location. It's a tight squeeze and difficult to snake it up to where it belongs without creating constrictions or having to do some cutting or repositioning of parts. I actually almost fabricated some plumbing that would have gathered air from underneath the car and brought it up to the PRM because there was more room to create a path. This would have been similar to the MG Racing carbon fiber intake.
All of these intakes, be it Mugen, Spoon, AEM, Injen, etc are going to make about the same amount of horsepower at speed with the biggest difference being WHERE the power is applied in the RPM-band and HOW it sounds (asthetics as well but that's obvious, like price). The PRM works best beyond VTEC, that's for sure. Any modifications done might help to alleviate low RPM bog but truth be told, I think the bog is created not so much by the temp of the air initially being drawn into the PRM from idle, rather the fact that the filter is so tightly encased within the canister and as such, air is only being drawn from the entry point of the canister, not from 360-degrees around it like an open filter set-up (Comptech, stock, my own custom designed intake, etc).
If properly modified, even an open filter set-up can be better at low RPM's than one where the filter places so much emphasis on pressure (which requires speed). You're not getting the pressure the PRM requires doing 2500 rpm's in 2nd gear. It's definitely a high RPM intake but truth be told, is damn good in those upper registers.

dolebludger

Thanks to all!

Having just returned from a weeks vacation, I'll take all of this advice to heart, try something, and if it does not work, try something else!

Thanks,
Richard