Harmonic noise
02-12-2007, 04:27 PM
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Harmonic noise
Hello all,
Got this weird question.....
So I hear this harmonic squeak. when I turn my wheels all the way right it is quiet. The noise only happens on the return to bring the wheels back to center (left) It also happens when I go over speed bumps too.
It almost sounds like a harmonica. I have pin pointed where the noise comes from.
When I spray silicone lubricant on component number 3 and 27 ( i dont know the name of these parts, they seem to be holding the knuckle in to place, it is basically the piece, above number 27, the part that has two holes on each side.) the noise will go away for about a week, but come back
Anyone know, how I can eliminate this problem all together? I have not noticed any compromise with the cars direct handling or do I feel it in the steering wheel when this noise occurs.
What I am wondering is, Is this thing dangerous to drive around like this? Do I have the risk of my wheel falling off while driving?
My car is MY02 with Tein s techs. 75K on the clock and that is it. Stock struts, stock sway bars ETC.... the whole car, besides 17 inch wheels and the springs is stock.
I appreciate you guys looking over here, and welcome any comments or suggestions.
Love,
Alex
Got this weird question.....
So I hear this harmonic squeak. when I turn my wheels all the way right it is quiet. The noise only happens on the return to bring the wheels back to center (left) It also happens when I go over speed bumps too.
It almost sounds like a harmonica. I have pin pointed where the noise comes from.
When I spray silicone lubricant on component number 3 and 27 ( i dont know the name of these parts, they seem to be holding the knuckle in to place, it is basically the piece, above number 27, the part that has two holes on each side.) the noise will go away for about a week, but come back
Anyone know, how I can eliminate this problem all together? I have not noticed any compromise with the cars direct handling or do I feel it in the steering wheel when this noise occurs.
What I am wondering is, Is this thing dangerous to drive around like this? Do I have the risk of my wheel falling off while driving?
My car is MY02 with Tein s techs. 75K on the clock and that is it. Stock struts, stock sway bars ETC.... the whole car, besides 17 inch wheels and the springs is stock.
I appreciate you guys looking over here, and welcome any comments or suggestions.
Love,
Alex
02-13-2007, 06:15 AM
#2
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have you checked your steering wheel system (electric)? I know you pin-pointed the problem, but it might be worn bushings or steering issue first...
i maybe wrong, but I would check those as well.
i maybe wrong, but I would check those as well.
02-13-2007, 02:19 PM
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Thanks for your input, you think even though my buddy used a stethoscope and only heard it come from that point I pointed out, it could still be something to do with the steering rack?
02-14-2007, 11:40 AM
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You're talking about the lower ball joint.
What you could do is this:
Remove cottor pin #35 and castle nut # 29.
With a ball joint popper
"pop" the ball joint out of the lower arm #11/12.
Grease-up the rubber boot #3 to remove the locking ring (like a key ring) # 17.
Then remove the rubber boot #3.
Clean and inspect rubber boot, inside and outside, replace if torn.
Clean and inspect ball joint.
Move it around to get all of the old grease out.
Apply fresh EP grease on ball joint, move it around to work it in.
Apply some fresh EP grease inside the rubber boot.
Apply some fresh grease on the outside of the rubber boot to make it easier to put the locking ring back on without damaging the rubber boot.
Put rubber boot back on and put the locking ring back, make sure its in its groove.
Clean tapered part of the ball joint.
Clean tapered hole in the lower arm.
Put ball joint back in lower arm.
Tighten castlenut to 49-59 Nm and put cotter pin back and lock it.
No more harmonica.
What you could do is this:
Remove cottor pin #35 and castle nut # 29.
With a ball joint popper
"pop" the ball joint out of the lower arm #11/12.Grease-up the rubber boot #3 to remove the locking ring (like a key ring) # 17.
Then remove the rubber boot #3.
Clean and inspect rubber boot, inside and outside, replace if torn.
Clean and inspect ball joint.
Move it around to get all of the old grease out.
Apply fresh EP grease on ball joint, move it around to work it in.
Apply some fresh EP grease inside the rubber boot.
Apply some fresh grease on the outside of the rubber boot to make it easier to put the locking ring back on without damaging the rubber boot.
Put rubber boot back on and put the locking ring back, make sure its in its groove.
Clean tapered part of the ball joint.
Clean tapered hole in the lower arm.
Put ball joint back in lower arm.
Tighten castlenut to 49-59 Nm and put cotter pin back and lock it.
No more harmonica.
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02-14-2007, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Feb 14 2007, 12:40 PM
You're talking about the lower ball joint.
What you could do is this:
Remove cottor pin #35 and castle nut # 29.
With a ball joint popper "pop" the ball joint out of the lower arm #11/12.
Grease-up the rubber boot #3 to remove the locking ring (like a key ring) # 17.
Then remove the rubber boot #3.
Clean and inspect rubber boot, inside and outside, replace if torn.
Clean and inspect ball joint.
Move it around to get all of the old grease out.
Apply fresh EP grease on ball joint, move it around to work it in.
Apply some fresh EP grease inside the rubber boot.
Apply some fresh grease on the outside of the rubber boot to make it easier to put the locking ring back on without damaging the rubber boot.
Put rubber boot back on and put the locking ring back, make sure its in its groove.
Clean tapered part of the ball joint.
Clean tapered hole in the lower arm.
Put ball joint back in lower arm.
Tighten castlenut to 49-59 Nm and put cotter pin back and lock it.
No more harmonica.
What you could do is this:
Remove cottor pin #35 and castle nut # 29.
With a ball joint popper
"pop" the ball joint out of the lower arm #11/12.Grease-up the rubber boot #3 to remove the locking ring (like a key ring) # 17.
Then remove the rubber boot #3.
Clean and inspect rubber boot, inside and outside, replace if torn.
Clean and inspect ball joint.
Move it around to get all of the old grease out.
Apply fresh EP grease on ball joint, move it around to work it in.
Apply some fresh EP grease inside the rubber boot.
Apply some fresh grease on the outside of the rubber boot to make it easier to put the locking ring back on without damaging the rubber boot.
Put rubber boot back on and put the locking ring back, make sure its in its groove.
Clean tapered part of the ball joint.
Clean tapered hole in the lower arm.
Put ball joint back in lower arm.
Tighten castlenut to 49-59 Nm and put cotter pin back and lock it.
No more harmonica.
I really appreciate your help You think I have the risk of the wheel falling off or something? as well, what do you think could cause something like this? Normal for about an 80K mileage car?
I have grown to like the noise at times, Making music in underground parking lots and stuff
02-14-2007, 02:27 PM
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SS2000GT Posted on Feb 14 2007, 09:45 PM
You're welcome.
I performed the same routine on both rear lower ball joints when I had my diff out.
You do need the proper ball joint removal tool.
Something like this:
The diameter of the "inlet" in the upper jaw should be 28 mm.
Apply grease there to prevent damage to the boot.
I don't think so.
The front ball joints not only go up & down but twist too (steering )
Check the old rubber boot and replace if there are any tears.
You may find a tear, that may have been the start of the music.
If there is a lot of play in the ball joint you should replace it.
And the cotter pin should be replaced too.
Have fun getting your hands dirty.
The test drive after successfully working on your own car = Priceless!
Thanks dude, I will try all of this on the weekend!
I performed the same routine on both rear lower ball joints when I had my diff out.
You do need the proper ball joint removal tool.
Something like this:
The diameter of the "inlet" in the upper jaw should be 28 mm.
Apply grease there to prevent damage to the boot.
You think I have the risk of the wheel falling off or something?
as well, what do you think could cause something like this? Normal for about an 80K mileage car?
)Check the old rubber boot and replace if there are any tears.
You may find a tear, that may have been the start of the music.
If there is a lot of play in the ball joint you should replace it.
And the cotter pin should be replaced too.
Have fun getting your hands dirty.
The test drive after successfully working on your own car = Priceless!
02-16-2007, 04:51 PM
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^^^Hey man, I really appreciate all of your help! you are a great guy you think that I can find this tool you speak of at any auto parts store?
I cant help but get more, and more impressed by the niceness of the S2KI community! I wish the whole world would come together to help each other like us.
you think that I can find this tool you speak of at any auto parts store? I cant help but get more, and more impressed by the niceness of the S2KI community! I wish the whole world would come together to help each other like us.