Hard startup when cold *VIDEO INSIDE*
10-08-2010, 04:49 AM
#21
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Sounds like you have an engine problem to me. Definitely not the alternator or battery, at this point.
MAYBE a bad connection somewhere. Any major work done on the car? Clutch? Engine?
Do this test...use a ratchet, turn the engine over a few times by hand. Get a feel for it.
Now have someone hold the clutch pedal down, see if the engine is hard to turn by hand. If it is, you have a bad thrust bearing in the engine.
Trust me on this test man, I've seen this before.
MAYBE a bad connection somewhere. Any major work done on the car? Clutch? Engine?
Do this test...use a ratchet, turn the engine over a few times by hand. Get a feel for it.
Now have someone hold the clutch pedal down, see if the engine is hard to turn by hand. If it is, you have a bad thrust bearing in the engine.
Trust me on this test man, I've seen this before.
10-08-2010, 08:35 AM
#23
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^ Where did you take your readings from? Did you probe the battery posts, the cable where it attaches to the post, or another point on the battery cable? This can be important. When I say testing the battery post I mean sticking the probe right in the center of the post so you've got nothing but pure battery.
Definitely consider worn thrust bearing putting too much load on the engine at startup. I'll measure my 2002 with a good battery and see what kind of voltage drop I get.
Edit: 10.7 volts when cranking, measured at the battery post, 70F, car had not been run for more than 10 seconds total for the day before the test - 12.3 volts ignition on with out vehicle running. I had to pull my fuel pump fuse to get the engine to crank long enough to get a stable reading. You should also see the voltage go to around 14 volts when the engine is running but this may take a few seconds right after startup to happen.
Time to figure out why your starter is sucking up so much juice (or why there is voltage drop between where you took the measurements and the battery post)
Definitely consider worn thrust bearing putting too much load on the engine at startup. I'll measure my 2002 with a good battery and see what kind of voltage drop I get.
Edit: 10.7 volts when cranking, measured at the battery post, 70F, car had not been run for more than 10 seconds total for the day before the test - 12.3 volts ignition on with out vehicle running. I had to pull my fuel pump fuse to get the engine to crank long enough to get a stable reading. You should also see the voltage go to around 14 volts when the engine is running but this may take a few seconds right after startup to happen.
Time to figure out why your starter is sucking up so much juice (or why there is voltage drop between where you took the measurements and the battery post)
10-13-2010, 09:57 AM
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Any update on this? I'm really interested to know what the failure mode is.
Have you considered the clutch safety-interlock bypass that's been talked about in the other crank walk threads? You could jumper that switch out of the loop and start the car with out the clutch in - that'll isolate out that failure mode with out having to put a wrench on the crank and turning it by hand. I think either test would be fine depending on which you are most comfortable with.
Have you considered the clutch safety-interlock bypass that's been talked about in the other crank walk threads? You could jumper that switch out of the loop and start the car with out the clutch in - that'll isolate out that failure mode with out having to put a wrench on the crank and turning it by hand. I think either test would be fine depending on which you are most comfortable with.
10-13-2010, 11:28 AM
#26
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Really havent looked at it since. Took the car to import face off in gainsville over the weekend, over 3 hours each way. Didnt give me any problems at all. The car will start normal even if I turn it off after maybe 5 sec. of running.
10-17-2010, 08:57 AM
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Finally turned the engine over by hand, didnt feel a big difference/ if any with the clutch pressed in. Also bypassed the clutch neutral safety switch thing and still have the same problem. I will tell you that when I did try and start it after turning it over by hand a few times, it fired right up.
10-19-2010, 01:35 PM
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I don't know if turning the engine over a few times is enough to prime the oil system but this thread seems to be related and was resolved with an OEM oil filter: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=823022 - that's the only thing I can think of if that is even your issue here. I'm not sure if he had hard cranking or it started and ran poorly for a few moments either.
Hey guys. It's been less than a month since I bought my 01 s2000. Anyway it's had no problems starting since. Cold or hot. I decided to do an oil change as the oil level was getting low. I have always used gc 0w30 for my 5th gen preludes and trusted this would work well for the s2000. I also did a bit of research and found a few guys use this oil with no issues.
Ive triple checked the level of oil and sits just at the high level. Sat overnight and next morning started rough like it struggled for a sec. And then went to normal. Ignored it as it started fine the rest of the day. Now this mining again it happened. Pressed the start button once and it sputters to start but after 2 seconds fled normally. Shut if off and restarted. No issues.
Oil level is still at the top. Does not affect anything, no cel light but I know it's not nomal. What am I missing here?
Ive triple checked the level of oil and sits just at the high level. Sat overnight and next morning started rough like it struggled for a sec. And then went to normal. Ignored it as it started fine the rest of the day. Now this mining again it happened. Pressed the start button once and it sputters to start but after 2 seconds fled normally. Shut if off and restarted. No issues.
Oil level is still at the top. Does not affect anything, no cel light but I know it's not nomal. What am I missing here?