Had a strip down to investigate oil burning
#11
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Presume changing the tensioner cured the top end rattle?
It may just have been some looseness that caused the initial shell wear.... or some oil starve as you say - it wouldnt take much time to cause some damage!
You could then say that it caused some play lower down and allowed some leakage. Hence its best to check bores dimensionally.
MB
It may just have been some looseness that caused the initial shell wear.... or some oil starve as you say - it wouldnt take much time to cause some damage!
You could then say that it caused some play lower down and allowed some leakage. Hence its best to check bores dimensionally.
MB
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Originally Posted by Pie_n_Chips,Dec 14 2005, 10:21 AM
Come on then mr expert how?
wiggle the buggers or what? or would it be quite obvious?
Would a visual inspection be enough?
wiggle the buggers or what? or would it be quite obvious?
Would a visual inspection be enough?
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There is an acceptable tolerance range for valve guides outlined in the Helm manual. You need to remove each valve and slide it out of the guide 10mm. Be careful as the retainer keepers will want to fly across the room. Measure the guide to stem clearance by wobbling the valve.
If the measurement is over the service limit, re-check with a new valve. If the clearance is still over the limit with a new valve you have to check the clearance inside the guide with a gauge.
Subtract the Outer Diameter of the valve stem from the Inner Diameter of the valve guide. The delta has to be with in the service limit or the guide has to be replaced.
Not a joyful procedure. Rather tedious, but not impossible.
If the measurement is over the service limit, re-check with a new valve. If the clearance is still over the limit with a new valve you have to check the clearance inside the guide with a gauge.
Subtract the Outer Diameter of the valve stem from the Inner Diameter of the valve guide. The delta has to be with in the service limit or the guide has to be replaced.
Not a joyful procedure. Rather tedious, but not impossible.
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Since the motor is so far torn apart, I'd replace nearly everything I could...piston rings, any and all bearings and seals, and have the head totally reconditioned as well. That should certainly fix any oil consumption problem assuming the block, cylinder bores, etc are okay. Just my thought...
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The Cam journals look fine, as is the carbon on the backs of the valves. A cylinder leakdown would have been advisable before taking it apart.
Unless Honda UK is doing something different than AHM, your car has the incorrect PLM oil filter, instead of the larger PCX model.
Unless Honda UK is doing something different than AHM, your car has the incorrect PLM oil filter, instead of the larger PCX model.
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Originally Posted by Slows2k,Dec 15 2005, 12:46 AM
The Cam journals look fine, as is the carbon on the backs of the valves. A cylinder leakdown would have been advisable before taking it apart.
Unless Honda UK is doing something different than AHM, your car has the incorrect PLM oil filter, instead of the larger PCX model.
Unless Honda UK is doing something different than AHM, your car has the incorrect PLM oil filter, instead of the larger PCX model.
Part number of the installed filter is 15400RBAF01 apprantly these supperceeds the older PCX model ????
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I had a similar problem with my MY01 S a few years back, turned out that there was a problem with the valve stem seals. The dealer originally tried to keep it quiet, but after a long conversation with Honda technical i discovered that there were a certain number of vehicles produced during 2001 that were fitted with incorrect seals. The car developed problems after racking up around 50K, and just got worse. I think the dealer was trying to fob me off, but the car was sorted out after 6 weeks of driving around in the dealers S demo.
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