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@Dibsen Honda recommends adjusting the distance at the linkage. I'm not sure if the result is the same if adjusted at the pedal the way you're doing. A slightly more "precise" way is to hold a straight edge at your throttle cable to make sure it's straight, then, tug on the cable at the very center straight up, then straight sideways and use a ruler to measure the deflection at the center of the cable and adjust accordingly. (the second pic is not mine, it's too much slack, but shows what that means)
Huh? How'd gas pedal adjustment creep into conversation? Subject was clutch pedal height adjustment, and its affect on title grinding gears.
A pedal that is too low will limit total pedal travel, hence equally affect clutch disengagement. Pedal too low = gear grind.
Inversely, adjusting pedal higher than spec can partially make up for certain clutch disengagement issues. Increase total travel, at the expense of pedal height.
Huh? How'd gas pedal adjustment creep into conversation? Subject was clutch pedal height adjustment, and its affect on title grinding gears.
A pedal that is too low will limit total pedal travel, hence equally affect clutch disengagement. Pedal too low = gear grind.
Inversely, adjusting pedal higher than spec can partially make up for certain clutch disengagement issues. Increase total travel, at the expense of pedal height.
OMG, Sunday morning brain fart and not enough coffee...I conflated two similar posts I was responding to AND thought in his photo he was adjusting the gas pedal freeplay (somehow) and completely overlooked he has his finger on the clutch, big duh on me, ...I was confused at adjusting the gas pedal this way and not the throttle cable.
"It is very easy to think that skip shifting has no bad effects on the trans. But believe me, it does. you are making the syncro, and the cog, engage the gear under opposing speeds that they were not designed to do. Now if you ROW the trans (put it in 5th without letting clutch out) into 5th gear first, then 6th, no harm is done. If you take 2nd gear to redline, then get lazy and want to go to 6th, if you row the trans 3-4-5-6, then let the clutch out, no harm done."
Can someone confirm it is NOT bad to skip shift if you double clutch? I'm under the impression it's only bad if you don't, and just jam the lever into whatever gear.
Example: redline 2nd and I want to skip to 5th. Clutch in, shift to neutral, clutch out, let the revs drop, clutch in, shift to 5th, clutch out.
I got in the habit of rev matching basically all of my shifts, except for single (non-skipped) upshifts, obviously. It just feels better.
Very helpful, are there burrs on any other gears which would benefit from this process?
I tried to search for rowing the shifter but couldn't find a direct answer. How do you do it, is rowing done with car on or off, do you press in the clutch and shift back and forth without releasing?
Thanks!
Originally Posted by Thomas Guide
I also used this thread from Billman in 2011 about reworking 5 and 6 gear if they have burrs on them and applied this to the entire gearbox after changing to Amsoil.
Billman:
"You developed burrs on the 6th gear side of the 5th-6th gear drive cog, and skip shifting made it worse. With the car cold in the morning, row the shifter from 5th to 6th about 100 times. Sometimes, you will get lucky and knock down the burrs and the transmission will fix itself. This must be done after the car sits overnight and has not been started, so most of the oil has drained off the cog. you want a dry cog for this fix. Afterwards, OPERATING the car under load in 5th gear and 6th gear (WOT then off then on) will further flatten thwe burrs and could possibly cure it completely. There's a thread title about a guy losing 5th gear after a track day, I told a lot of this issue in that thread."
and
"It is very easy to think that skip shifting has no bad effects on the trans. But believe me, it does. you are making the syncro, and the cog, engage the gear under opposing speeds that they were not designed to do. Now if you ROW the trans (put it in 5th without letting clutch out) into 5th gear first, then 6th, no harm is done. If you take 2nd gear to redline, then get lazy and want to go to 6th, if you row the trans 3-4-5-6, then let the clutch out, no harm done."
With the car cold in the morning, row the shifter from 5th to 6th about 100 times. Sometimes, you will get lucky and knock down the burrs and the transmission will fix itself. This must be done after the car sits overnight and has not been started, so most of the oil has drained off the cog. you want a dry cog for this fix.
Thanks, I saw that in the previous post but I still wanted to verify what it explicitly meant. Is the clutch held down the entire time and although it says the car sits overnight and not been started, do you start the car and then row?
Originally Posted by noodels
With the car cold in the morning, row the shifter from 5th to 6th about 100 times. Sometimes, you will get lucky and knock down the burrs and the transmission will fix itself. This must be done after the car sits overnight and has not been started, so most of the oil has drained off the cog. you want a dry cog for this fix.
Thanks, I saw that in the previous post but I still wanted to verify what it explicitly meant. Is the clutch held down the entire time and although it says the car sits overnight and not been started, do you start the car and then row?
Since we got this far, lets hopefully kill it off.
You do not start the car. The idea is to NOT have any lube on the gears. Let it drip off overnight, so at that point you definitely don't wanna do anything to circulate it.
The idea is to debur the syncros. Force them to engage repeatedly, dry. So clutch not pressed means more resistance to engaging, more deburing.
I'd do it e brake not on, brakes not pressed.
But you may have to use clutch on the first time to get into gear. Then I'd do remainder without using clutch.
07-14-2024, 01:18 PM
