slackfaster

I use the Motive power bleeder...
top down pressure bleeding.


saw someone do a bottom up bleed one
...six feet of tubing connecting a raised (higher than the master cylinder) bottle of fresh fluid and the bleeding bolt---
used a turkey baster to remove the over flow from the master cylinder

iam7head

Unless your bleeder valve is wore out, you don't need any liquid sealer or teflon tape. You know those plumber are not even using them anymore since they clog up more pipe than helping to seal leaks.

Assuming your valve is in good shape, all you need to do for not having air sucking back in is NOT opening the darn thing wide open, you just need to crack it open barely for fluid to come out.

Gravity bleeding works fine but I always find it taking too long. I am not even sure if you are doing it right if you have that much problem with air bubble.

is the tube sealing up around the valve? with the other end submerged in fluid?

take it to a shop if you are not 100% sure, there's no use of buying dot4 fluid and running half a line with bubbles

Billman250

Since I'm the one who posted up the gravity bleed, i can tell you this. I've never had a car come out with a worse pedal. it always came out great.

I have never used sealer on any threads. I open the bleeder two full turns with a hose on it. You don't need to submerse the end in fluid, it will only fight the process.

It is ok if air is being pulled through the threads. If you lost the pedal, either it ran dry or the piston size of the accord caliper is too large. If it is not proportionate to the master you will never get a pedal. In this case its not air. The master has too much leverage on the larger piston and it will appear the pedal is not firm. Unless you've already confirmed the accord calipers can be used and can deliver a firm pedal...

k24accord

x2. replaced the fluid when I replaced the pads a few months back. The gravity bleed method is a little time consuming took me about an hour and a half), but the pedal feels like its literally welded to the car.

Working_Class_S

According to the thread about the Accord caliper swap, I should have a little more travel but nothing like what I'm experiencing. Without the teflon tape, I was getting constant air bubbles in the bleeder hose, so I did not know when to stop the process. If air is being pulled through the threads, when do I close the bleeder screw? Is it normal for the air bubbles to be never ending?

Billman250

Air bubbles or not, doesnt matter. Use a different color fluid so you know when its complete. if you ran it dry and sucked air, all bets are off. Gravity will likely not fix it.

Working_Class_S

I'm pretty sure that's what happened. Any ideas on what I can do?

pmptx

This is it.

Crack the bleeder, let the fluid flow out, and keep the fluid topped up. go round the car and you should have a rock hard pedal.

SgtB

Hmm. Interesting. Always worked my way, but I'll try the "just drain it" method.

Billman250

fix it yet? I'll teach you how to do what I call "back-chase" the air.