common reactor

I was thinking the same exact thing but you got to it first!

AssassinJN

1 option for upgrading the diff is to have the gears cryo treated. It's not very expensive if you can do the disassemble and reassemble yourself. However I'd say that your ich for more power and burning rubber will get the hold of you again, so I'd just same the time and money and get the nissan rear upgrade from InlinePRO. Otherwise you're looking at probably rebuilding the diff again in a year or 2.

kleecker

got a first look at the diff - car on stands. The right output shaft is protruding aout 3/4", and I can move it radially just a bit (wobble it). Sounds a bit more than ring and pinion.........

Jsmply

Ouch . . . do you launch this car a lot? I just don't get it sometimes . . . some people with HUGE amounts of power like Sideways on this board who has arguably one of the fastest S2000's we know of run the STOCK diff, and some people blow it out stock.

Go figure. It has to come down to either driving technique or not all diff's are made the same from the factory . . . I'm overly curious as to someone like Woodwork's opinion if it were possible to get it.

kleecker

[QUOTE=Jsmply,Dec 15 2006, 04:56 PM] Ouch . . . do you launch this car a lot?

kleecker

Got the rear out and pulled the cover. You will probably have to go through all the included photos (with comments) before you can really voice your opinion of what ya think happened.

My thoughts are that the ring gear was shocked rearward some weeks ago (before I started hearing rumbling during hard left cornering) hit on same weakness of the diff That "hit" also caused the passenger side shaft bearing to crack, and at the same time, the bearing adjustment "screw" became in the housing..

The bearing crack allowed the passenger side shaft to slide out an inch or 2. This allowed the ring gear to move all over the place, and with hard cornering, the slop in the bearing allows the ring gear to to be moved relative the the pinion (forces from ring onto pinion). Run your rear with like that and you're bound to break most any R&P.

I do not see any cracks other than what's pointed out, but will not tear down further to get a better look.


First, from underneath, left is drivers side. Notice no axle gap:



Passenger side to right:



Passenger side output shaft, complete with retaining clip.



Now the rear is opened. Passenger side is on the LEFT - compare to input on right (passenger):




Passenger side crack on the adjustment screw (ring), from the side:



A look at the crack in the outer race, and again notice how cocked out of place the adjustment (threaded) ring is............. hmmmmmm, I'm beginning to think that is not the outer race of the bearing, but would need a bearing in hand to know for sure.



Compare adjustment ring to (normal) driver side:




My thoughts, knowing what the forthcoming pics are, is that the was a shock to the ring gear - same old problem common to our diffs - push ring gear out back. That "hit" also caused the passenger side shaft bearing to outer race (housing?) crack, and at the same time, the bearing adjustment "screw", or ring, became cocked.

The bearing crack allowed the passenger side shaft to slide out an inch or 2. This allowed the ring gear to move excessively, and with hard cornering, the slop in the bearing allowed the ring gear to be moved relative the the pinion (forces from ring onto the pinion). Run your rear like that and you're bound to break any R&P.

I do not see any cracks other than what's pointed out, but will not tear down further to get a better look.


First, from underneath, left is drivers side. Notice no axle gap



and the pinion gear:




Bearing crack fist, due to ring gear wanted to go rearward, leading to whacked out ring rear alignment, causing R&P failure. The R&P did not fail until sometime after the bearing outer bearing race cracked.

Talk to me. I could NOT spot any cracks in the housing caps which are underneath the Comptech caps, but the diff is still all together, and I have a somewhat restricted view.

Housing toast, good, or further tear down needed to determine?

SpitfireS

Wow
Thanks for taking / posting pictures.

It looks to me the bolts stretched, the bolts are more "flexible" then bearings.
Enough to create play and that cracked the out bearing race, allowed the adjuster nut to tilt outwards creating a lot of play in the Torsen bearings.
Then the pinion / ring set-up is messed up and boom!
As soon as there is enough play it will fail instantly IMO.

Or....

You lost that locking screw and that managed to wedge itself between the pinion / ring creating huge forces (from here read the above)

kleecker Posted on Dec 18 2006, 03:04 AM
If the threads (where the adjuster nuts are) aren't damaged and there is no other damage.... hard to tell by looking at pictures.
You sure need new bearing cap bolts, I wouldn't trust them anymore.
The Torsen unit may still be ok.
Are there lots of shavings in the oil / on the magnetic drain plug?

Further tear down needed.

kleecker

well, I had been hearing/feeling vibrations from the rear (huh?) during hard left handers for "a couple weeks" prior to blowing this thing completely................. that's why I believe that the R&P did not "go" at the same time as the bearing/adjuster "went".

I removed the adjuster/ring locking component (held in place by a Phillips head bolt) in order to get better pics of the adjuster/ring.

kleecker

I'll answer my own question. The housing is trashed. Look below at the crack in the (cast) OEM cap...... a little easier to see in person, but nonetheless, it's an obvious hairline crack.

I'll still give some credit to the Comptech reinforcement. It held things together for, at the very least, a couple weeks after the initial damage was done. Suppose it's time to stop playing around with Tonka toy parts and go with InlinePro's diff conversion kit......