RT

They are crazy grabby once they are up to temp though

ricklobo

where can I buy that brake fluid you guys are talking about (ATE super Blue) ?? and after reading this entire thread, I still have no clue as to which pads would be best suited for track time ?? I am running at Summit Point next month and my brake feel is pretty much a sponge now, so I need to do something before I go out again... but I might end up running the same pads on the street after my sessions on the track... any middle of the road pads I should consider ? And where can I buy them ??

thanks all....

dwb1

If you have pulsating brake petal , you should check rotor for trueness . This is done with a dial indicator on both rotor pad wear surfaces (inside and outer). If you find the rotor out of specifications , you should have rotors turned . Some times using a pad past its temperature range will deposit pad material on the rotor face . You can use a Scotch- Brite pad to remove pad material from surface. You can also sand pad surface flat and remove any cooked portion of the pad material.

I see no way changing fluid would help pulsating brake petal , but flushing old fluid will not hurt a thing .

For people looking for replacement pads for their cars , determine how you will use car and select pads accordingly .

Selecting a pad that has a high temperature range , for a driver that does not require high range . Will keep you from putting up with dust , rotor wear and noise.

Brake pad fade is mostly a product of operating range , select pad that fits your driving style and no fade .

brad

RT

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ricklobo
[B]where can I buy that brake fluid you guys are talking about (ATE super Blue) ??

RT

Brad, what do you mean? Are you talking about a wide range or a high upper boundry operating Temp?

jschmidt

Porterfield R4S Pads from Ben at Bulletproof: www.bulletproofautomotive.com/
ATE Superblue or Type 200 Fluid (same fluid in blue or yellow color) from OG Racing: https://www.ogracing.com/ogshell/loadpage.p...94+catbrak.html

dwb1

Normally pads that have a higher temperature range(upper boundry) than stock will produce more dust , more noise and more rotor wear . Many companies produce a hot street pad , raising the temperature range ( up to 800 to 900F) , with only slightly more dust , a very quite pad and low rotor wear . For people not using their car for track use , these pads would be a good choice .
We have tested pads that work on the track and the street , but dust and noise are things that people have to live with . We have also seen racing pads that eat rotors for lunch and are a nightmare to live with on the street.
I personally am using a hot street pad on my car , and I appreciate the reduced dust and my wife appreciates the quite part (before ,I drove my car on the street and track and I did not want to change pads , 9,000 miles on #3 racing pads. No rotor wear , but lots of dust and some noise ) . I now change my pads when I go to the track , dust and noise are the reasons. The hot street pads have only a slightly higher friction level than stock and work great cold . Rotor wear has not been a problem either . I must say that even this type of pad will have more dust than stock pad.
I guess what I am trying to get across is select pads that are not over kill for your application . Living with a racing pad on the street , when you don't race , is not worth the hassle . Rotor wear and protecting your wheels finish , will only add to your problems.

brad

s2kpdx01

well what i take from this whole discussion is that there is no really good reason to go with a compromise solution. The oem pads on the S2000 are more then adequate for the street. If i really want to do it right I will just get some panthers XP's or + and change them out for track days, thanks guys.

RT

[QUOTE]Originally posted by s2kpdx01
[B]well what i take from this whole discussion is that there is no really good reason to go with a compromise solution.

s2kpdx01

[QUOTE]Originally posted by RT
[B]dude, your stock pads are baked, I too experienced the "warped rotor" deal at both PIR and SIR and know what you are talking about.
Here's all you need to do, no BS, just fu<king do it and you be cool:
Switch to Ate Super Blue,
Decide if you can deal with crazy amounts of brake dust and possible squealing on a reg basis.
If so, get a dual-purpose (hot street) pad (BM#3 or Port R-4S) install and enjoy.
If not, you're going to need to switch pads prior to track time (couple days before is not a big deal) and switch back after.