GMSMFM (UPDATED)
05-15-2006, 10:05 AM
#11
Registered User
I Added this fluid in my car just for the street and it made my tranny more notchier. Had it in there for about 1000 miles, still crappy. Switched to Honda MTF and it got better. Big thumbs down from me.
05-15-2006, 10:27 AM
#12
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Location: Wilmington, NC
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Add me to the list of dissatisfied users of GM synchromesh. I put 1000 miles on it including one track day and my tranny was noticably notchy. I bleed my clutch annually and have no leaks. Switched back to Honda MTF and everything has been fine for the past 4000 miles with 3 track days.
05-15-2006, 10:57 AM
#13
Registered User
On my 5th track day (10K overall street/track) with GMSFM I also had a couple incidents of 2nd -3rd shift problems when the temp got warm. I drained it and put fresh GMSFM with a couple ounces of LC20 and the last track day was flawless shiftwise. The stuff must break down over time.
05-15-2006, 11:01 AM
#14
Registered User
I have zero complaints with GMSMFM after over 10k miles.. I like it better than Honda MTF.. but if its determined that it breaks down under extreme load and temps, I'll ditch it.
05-15-2006, 11:01 AM
#15
Banned
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by david1,May 15 2006, 01:34 PM
It is not the fluid. I have bean using The GM syncromesh stuff for years including the S for 4 1/2 years. I have alot of auto x time on this stuff and 600 miles on it at Beaverun and Dragon runs etc. My trans is like butter even when hot. If you can not get the trans to move from gate to gate, you have a mechanical issue. More than likely your clutch is not fully releasing. No amount of rev matching will help in this case. Try bleeding the clutch fluid. I have seen many S's that would not shift properly due to poor fluid condition/or low and bad clutch master cylinders. If the clutch master is bad internally, you think you have a full stroke of the pedal, but some of the fluid goes by the piston. Look under the dash where the clutch pedal rod goes to the master and look for for fluid leakage.
For the first few min of driving it works fine. It's not the clutch fluid. It was just flushed recently.
05-15-2006, 11:11 AM
#17
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Originally Posted by Emil St-Hilaire,May 15 2006, 02:06 PM
It breaks down very quicly,+/- 2000 miles,and did'nt see any improvement;changed back to Redline.
05-15-2006, 02:27 PM
#20
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Jasonoff,May 15 2006, 03:01 PM
I don't think you read my full post.
For the first few min of driving it works fine. It's not the clutch fluid. It was just flushed recently.
For the first few min of driving it works fine. It's not the clutch fluid. It was just flushed recently.
Originally Posted by david1,May 15 2006, 01:34 PM
It is not the fluid. I have bean using The GM syncromesh stuff for years including the S for 4 1/2 years. I have alot of auto x time on this stuff and 600 miles on it at Beaverun and Dragon runs etc. My trans is like butter even when hot. If you can not get the trans to move from gate to gate, you have a mechanical issue. More than likely your clutch is not fully releasing. No amount of rev matching will help in this case. Try bleeding the clutch fluid. I have seen many S's that would not shift properly due to poor fluid condition/or low and bad clutch master cylinders. If the clutch master is bad internally, you think you have a full stroke of the pedal, but some of the fluid goes by the piston. Look under the dash where the clutch pedal rod goes to the master and look for for fluid leakage.
I gave this a try. Rolling in first clutch fully depressed I get that scraping noise I mentioned. If I blip the throttle the nose goes away and as the rpm drop back down the noise comes back and I can feel the car slightly as if I was releasing the clutch slightly. It is not fully releasing from the flywheel. That