Gearing question
#21
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Here are the instructions for the yellow jacket. The example given is for 4.77 gears, which has a setting of 28.
instructions for yellow jacket calibration
instructions for yellow jacket calibration
#22
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Originally Posted by xviper,Apr 5 2006, 02:54 PM
Not everyone wants those higher rpm on the highway.
Also, each gear has its advantages and disadvantages depending upon the track the car is used on. Having a higher gear ratio is not always considered "better" or an "upgrade".
Also, each gear has its advantages and disadvantages depending upon the track the car is used on. Having a higher gear ratio is not always considered "better" or an "upgrade".
#23
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Originally Posted by PilotSi,Apr 6 2006, 07:03 AM
Odd. I just got mine in, and mine is set at 10 for a correction of 5%. I used the gear calculator to determine the right mph @ right RPM and set it like that. So I got it up to 4000RPMs, and then hit the dial until 70mph @ 4000RPMs. Probably not the most accurate...But I figured since I'm running w/ stock tire sizes, it shouldn't be too wrong.
What other ways can you calibrate this w/o having a GPS nor an Interstate? Pace someone?
What other ways can you calibrate this w/o having a GPS nor an Interstate? Pace someone?
to the OP, my suggestion is to remove the yellow box, and use one of the other methods to dial in your speed. 80mph is too high of a speed to properly calibrate IMO, since tire flex is going to skew your results.
I suggest this. Set your yellow jacket to an 11% correction factor. (assuming you have stock tire diameter?) then drive next to another S2k that is going exactly 60mph and talk to each other on the phone and see what your speedo reads when you match his speed.
the other option is to do the 1 mile at 60mph technique and then do the cross multiplication.
#24
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Originally Posted by PilotSi,Apr 6 2006, 06:03 AM
Pace someone?
Listen to what Wisconsin just posted. Anyone who puts gears in the car should do the following if possible:
1. Before installation, confirm the exact ratio of gears you are putting. COUNT THE TEETH. This is so easy I am confounded by why people don't do it.
2. Once you confirm the ratio by counting teeth and you know you got what you paid for, do the math and find out what the % change is from the stock gearing. Use this number to dial in the correction on the speed compensator. So far, this is pure physics and math. If you do this, you will have dialed in the change for the gears and your speedo and odo WILL read as it did before.
3. Now, if you want to correct for any errors that were (and are) inherent in your particular car, THEN confirm this by the other methods described here. Be it known that when you do this, you will have also dialed out ANY error that was in the speed measuring device of the car that was there before, including any error induced by a different wheel/tire configuration. Most digital, speedos can have an error of 0% to over 2%.
#26
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Originally Posted by PilotSi,Apr 6 2006, 09:46 AM
I guess I'll have to pace someone then. But the problem with counting the teeth is that I got mine prebuilt by Hardtopguy, so it makes it kind of hard to count ![wink.gif](https://www.s2ki.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
![wink.gif](https://www.s2ki.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
But like I said, if you have 4.57s, dial in 11.46% and you will have fully compensated for the gears. Then all you need to do is confirm it and dial out the naturally occuring error, is you so desire.
#27
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Originally Posted by billman250,Apr 4 2006, 05:48 PM
Here's what ya do bruva....
Put the car on stands, in neutral.
matchmark the wheels to the backing plates.
Matchmark the drive shaft to the dif.
Now..using the wheel matchmarks, turn both wheels one turn.
Watch the amount of turns the driveshaft makes. If it turns barely more than 4.5 times, you've got 4.57.
If it turns 4 and 3/4 turns, you've got 4.77.
Put the car on stands, in neutral.
matchmark the wheels to the backing plates.
Matchmark the drive shaft to the dif.
Now..using the wheel matchmarks, turn both wheels one turn.
Watch the amount of turns the driveshaft makes. If it turns barely more than 4.5 times, you've got 4.57.
If it turns 4 and 3/4 turns, you've got 4.77.
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You gotta do what billman said; that's the only way to be absolutely sure which gears are in there (without taking 'em out and counting teeth!). All the GPS/tire diameter/speedo stuff introduces too many error sources. Plus this only takes a couple minutes, while the GPS thing will keep you occupied forever finding level roads, measuring tire deformation, calibrating speedos...
If you're gonna meaure something, *measure* it!
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#28
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I am going try the Billman method.
FYI I just got back from a another track day at Summit Point (main course) where I have done more that 25 events.
I adjusted the jacket to 21 just to see the difference, on the way up 4000 rpm in 6th was 65-66 MPH.
On the track I was redlining 5th at 120MPH,
With the 4:10 gears I never could redline 5th at this track both with and without the supercharger. The max Speed I have even seen there NA was 125, and 135 supercharged.
FYI I just got back from a another track day at Summit Point (main course) where I have done more that 25 events.
I adjusted the jacket to 21 just to see the difference, on the way up 4000 rpm in 6th was 65-66 MPH.
On the track I was redlining 5th at 120MPH,
With the 4:10 gears I never could redline 5th at this track both with and without the supercharger. The max Speed I have even seen there NA was 125, and 135 supercharged.