Kyle

So I installed the standard valve with the ADP-106 adapter. Much happier with the orientation of this one. Wasn't happy that I had to drain brand new oil back into several (like 12) empty water bottles to fill it back up with. Oil drained pretty quickly (did it cold).

I may change the valve again though, to the F106S which has the little nipple on it so I can attach a 90* fitting to it so I can have the oil drain straight down. The standard 106 valve has it come out to the side. I also ended up stripping the hex head inside of the valve while trying to torque it to the specified 18 ft/lbs....I ended up just using one of my adjustable aluminum AN fitting wrenches to finish snugging the valve and orient it how I wanted it; didn't mar the valve at all.

When I do the job again I'll definitely just use the adjustable wrench to tighten the valve. 18 ft/lbs isn't alot, easy enough to get a feeling for by hand.

rpg51

Yea, I don't think they want you using the hex nut on the valve to torque it to the pan or adapter. The idea, I believe, is to use an open end wrench, even an adjustable wrench, on the body of the valve to tighten it up. The torque spec for the valve must be a bit vague I suppose because you have to end up with the valve oriented correctly so you can easily reach and operate the lever that opens and closes the valve.

I prefer the oil draining out to the passenger side a bit similar to the oem drain system. But, certainly the model with the small nipple would be fine I think. You can use the nipple, or not, as you wish.

Kyle, did you attach the adapter to the pan first and then the valve to the adapter? What did you use for a wrench to attach the adapter to the pan? Were you able to get a torque wrench on the adapter?

Kyle

Sorry, I mis-worded. There's an allen socket inside of the outlet of the F-106 valve outlet that you can use a hex bit in, otherwise there's nothing to really grab onto in order to torque the valve properly. I was just assuming that the 18 ft/lbs is pretty specific, and not something you really want to exceed given that it's only brass, but lesson learned.....

The adapter I did install into the pan first, but Fumoto tells you not to fully torque it to the 18 ft/lbs when installing it because tightening the actual valve to it will torque it even further. I think I installed it to like 12 ft/lbs at first. I was able to use a 21mm hex socket on my digital torque wrench with no issues to get the adapter installed first.

Bottom line, when I do this job again, I'm just going to do it by feel....Like I said, 18 ft/lbs isn't a lot, I'll make sure I use a 3/8 wrench on the adapter, and just send it when I tighten the valve onto the adapter with an adjustable wrench so it's oriented properly. Given the amount of torque I had to put on both components to get the valve oriented how I wanted it, I'm pretty confident I can just send it without worrying, considering the torque for the drain bolt is nearly twice that value, and people have been known to torque them much higher before stripping the pan, but it seems like the Fumoto fittings themselves are pretty stout.

RolanTHUNDER

Sucks that it got stripped! You're right about 18ft lbs not being that much torque.

windhund116

I used an open 19mm (3/4-inch) end-wrench to tighten the Fumoto valve's square casting, into my Element's pan. Tightened until fiber washer just started to squish. Then, a 1/8 turn more.

rpg51

EDIT - Problem solved. Read to bottom. But, gave me a hell of a scare. Not sure what the proper torque is. Either I really screwed up with my torque wrench, or the fumoto torque is a LOT less than the Honda drain plug torque.

HELP!

I finally got around to my oil change today. I was installing the fumoto valve. The adapter (1/2") went in. I torqued it with the supplied fibre washer. I was installing the valve itself into the adapter when the adapter broke off the oil pan. I clearly over torqued. The brass threaded section of the adapter broke off the brass body of the adapter, and remains in the oil pan drain hole. The brass threads are flush with the outside surface of the drain hole.

I am hopeful that if I can turn the brass threaded section out of the oil pan drain hole I'll be ok. But, can't tell for sure until I get that brass section out of there.

Any suggestions how to go at getting that brass section spun out? Some sort of easy out? It seem that there is a chance it will spin out easily.

Ugh.




SAVED BY HIGH TECH EASY OUT !!!! ALL IS WELL. BUT - I THINK I WILL PASS ON THE FUMOTO FOR THE TIME BEING!

windhund116

GOOD LORD! Okay, for the S2000, I'm gonna stick to OEM plug. I noticed that when I was putting the Fumoto valve onto my Element, the fiber washer squished at a much lower torque, than the standard aluminum washer. This could have been a hint to the total torque you should apply to these adapters.

I used a new aluminum washer, then put the Fumoto with its fiber washer on, above the Honda one. But, only tightened to the point the fiber one started to crush. In my experience, when you crush any washer beyond slight compression --- the darn thing starts to leak.

Thanks, for your post!

Mr.Matchbox

Usually, the torque you could aply to a drain plug is not limited by the solid steel OEM drain plug, but by the thread and material oft the Oil Pans. Soft aluminum or a flimsy sheet metall set the limit.
With the fumoto valve, the very soft, brittle and hollow drilled brass thread is the weakest part, the limiting factor. Fumoto should give the customers a advise for the maximum torque.
My guess would be 1/3 Torque of the OEM drain plug.

flanders

I posted the torque spec on first page, it's 25Nm or 18 ft-lb.
Size Chart | Fumoto® Engine Oil Drain Valves

rpg51

Ok guys. I need to accept responsibility for the problem I had. I made the dumb mistakes of #1) not reading the Fumoto installation instructions which give 18 ft Lbs as the torque spec AND #2) assuming the Honda torque spec for the oem drain bolt would be safe, AND 3) not reading the post in this very thread re torque spec for the Fumoto. Dumb, dumb, dumb. Three dumb moves.

Luckily, as you point out, the fail point is the brass threads, not the oil pan aluminum threads, and I did no damage to my oil pan.

Since this experience I took a few minutes searching around and I came upon another alternative drain valve system called Vavlomax Quicktwist. Anyone have any experience with this system? I like the fact that there is no lever - the design seems to be perhaps a bit less complicated? This device also specifies a much lower torque than the OEM spec for the steel drain plug.

https://www.valvomax.com/products/va...ck-twist-valve