stock06

You are welcome! Found this site after sending email to Fumoto, it was a link on their one day reply. Very helpful on how to choose which valve to use, adapters, hoses, torque settings, install instructions, etc.

https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/

Personally, I have decided to go with their recommendation of using ADP106 due to the recess and adds 1/2” extension for more flexibility. Pairing with the F106SX to be able to keep drain at the same OE level and to point by choice (360 degrees rotation).

Will be using the standard valve on the daily due to high clearance and slant on oil pan.

Thank you all for your replies and will update as I proceed. Oil change in October on daily and In January on the S (< 5k mi).

Mr.Matchbox

Magnetic drain plug or fumoto valve..
Magnetic drain plug or fumoto valve..
Magnetic drain plug or fumoto valve..
Magnetic drain plug or fumoto valve..
Magnetic drain plug or fumoto valve..
Magnetic drain plug or fumoto valve..

cosmomiller

Pics of the pans. Being a pilot has me preferring several backup plans, Making messes in the past has made me preferring backup mess plans. I use my flat metal drip pan to make sliding things around easy. Think of a pizza peel in a wood oven. I put the pan(s) on it and just slide it around into position. I use a smaller pan inside of the larger one in case of spills or misses. The drip pan is the ultimate backup for spills. You might notice my garage is carpeted so I don't want oil spills. I get all the aluminum pans from Costco. I use them a lot for barbecue, smoking beans and holding meats. Also holds wet wood chips for the smoke.

So, first I slide the pans under the car in position. Viewing from the open hood down confirms it. Remove oil filler cap. Open Fumoto and fill small pan half full or so. Shut Fumoto. This makes it easy to slide the pans out, carefully pick up the oil filled one and pour oil into large funnel leading to oil container. I bend a "V" in the corner of the aluminum pan to facilitate a pour. I don't have the nipple version Fumoto, just the base model. Repeat this a couple of times until the oil (warm oil) is now just dripping out allowing the pans to remain under the car until done. I then loosen the filter with a wrench, then slip the baggie around the base and finish unscrewing the filter. You can tell when it is about to come off of course so I am ready to capture with the bag. I tilt the filter a bit to pour out excess into the drip aluminum pan below. The filter goes to the bottom of the bag and I tie it off for disposal. Drip free.

I may pour a little clean oil in to see when it comes out the bottom. I close the Fumoto, Install new OEM filter using a wrench to achieve the proper torque fit.

Add the 5 quart bottle plus more of the Mobil 1 0W-30 ($23 Wallmart). Run engine checking for leaks. Recheck oil, both sides of the stick. Add or drain to desired level.

Pull out the pans, drain leftover oil in recycle container. Put used oil pan in larger bag ( I use 40 lb dog food) and place it vertically in garbage can so there are no leaks. The second, larger aluminum pan ( I have used a plastic dedicated oil catch pan in the past) usually only has a drop or two so I just wipe that and save it for the next change.

Last pic with the valve cover off (Billman's valve check X2) shows how clean the M1 leaves things.

rpg51

Thanks for that last post and the pics. Very helpful. One of my tactics is to put a large piece of cardboard down on my cement floor and that sort of serves the same purpose as your flat drip pan. I have a spot to set it aside out of the way and I use it when drain transmission and dif as well. When it gets too messy over time I just toss it and pull out the spare. I think the idea of draining part of the oil at a time is a good one - minimize sloshing problems when pouring into container. Of course, you can only do that with a fumoto valve. The other good option might be drain is all in a big enough pan and then when all done with everything else, back off it to avoid any sloshing issues. Still, it seems safest re sloshing to drain off in step. I like that idea.

I used the new model Fumoto (F106SX) on my old S and honestly I like the basic model with no nipple best. Keep it simple. It is smaller and it seems a little less subject to getting hit. It offers less leverage on the oil plan if it does get hit. I just feel a little safer using the smallest option, and it works fine. It directs the oil where I want it. No worries. I have the adapter and the basic model on order. My memory is that you do need the adapter with the basic model. Not sure. I'll see when I install it.

So, maybe this next oil change will be my last time having to put the car up on stands for a messy oil change. What a relief.

Mr.Matchbox

I dont jack my S up for a oil change.
Just jack it 1 Inch up on the front passenger side with a simple scissor jack, enough to slide my oil pan under it, then lower it again.
You could barely see the drain plug from above. All you need is a deep, long 17 mm socket on your ratchet to open it from above. You just have to feel it, it´s a little bit tricky, but doable. Best way is to remove the oil filter first, this gives you more room for access.
You re-install the drain bolt simply while lying on the ground beside the car, you can screw it back in with you hand.
Thigten it again from above with the torque wrench, install the new oil fillter, jack it up 1 inch and remove the pan, lower it, done. Simple and fast!

windhund116

Guys! How come apparently no one posted that you need a 1-inch adapter to fit the Fumoto drain valve onto the S2000's cast aluminum oil pan? To clear the casting. Oh well... next time. I hope that the hex shoulder fits the casting...

The stock F-106 works fine with the Element's stamped steel oil pan.

stock06

Due to the recession at the drain an extension is recommended. Here is a good help link that will answer many questions. I will be using the 1/2” extension.

Hope this helps!

https://help.fumotooildrainvalve.com/hc/en-us

windhund116

Yeah, my F106 won't even turn without hitting the casting. I wouldn't even try --- as I'm sure you'll damage the pan. The casting access is quite small in diameter. I hope that hex head adapter will fit.

Did you get your adapter from Fumoto? Did it have a rather large hex head? Did it fit without interfering with the casting?

Thanks!

stock06

Well, my S is not due until end of year and I put maybe 3-4k miles per year on it. So, I have not ordered the adapter and valve for it yet and Fumoto does seem to have the best prices on their online store. However, I am changing the daily (QX50) by the second week in October and using the standard Fumoto F-133 valve, with no tip. It gets changed every 6 months or 5k miles, whichever comes first because of Infiniti's warranty. The QX has a massive undercover (16 bolts and 3 grommets) to be removed in order to reach the drain and filter. With plenty ground clearance and a slant on the oil pan the standard valve should work well, drain quicker and be protected by the undercover. I ordered from Amazon for a couple dollars more, no shipping and easy returns with Prime. On order is a 10 mm hex socket due in tomorrow to assist with torquing.

For both cars I used the "How to choose a Fumoto valve for your vehicle?" section in the help link. After entering 2006 S2000 2.2L L4 on the home page "Find Your Model" this message comes up in red, "Your oil pan has a recessed drain port and may require the ADL-106 to install the valve. The F106SX can be installed without the adapter. However, if it can only be pointed down close to the ground, use the ADP-106 to change its orientation."

NOTE: Torque the adapter to a lesser setting than the valve as it will re-torque when you torque the valve.

Due to the low clearance on the S, my goal is to keep the drain at the same level and the F106SX model with the ADP-106 seems to be the best choice for me.

Drive hard!

cosmomiller

If you go to the Fumoto website and enter your auto information in the drop down menu, it will give you the proper valve(s) AND extensions, if needed. No guessing at all. I think, not positive, the new rotating valve does not need an extension. I have installed 6 of these on my vehicles.