Frustrating issue - no heat
12-30-2009, 05:52 AM
#11
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Thanks guys, but I've got the manual and have already tried operating the valve manually, as well as removing it and verifying it's not blocked. I'll be bleeding again this morning and seeing how it goes.
12-30-2009, 06:14 AM
#12
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Alright, so the valve, thermostat, etc are good. Hmmm...
In that case I'm going with extremely stubborn air bubble. My Subaru was an absolute nightmare to bleed. I ran it at several steep angles to the point of nearly overheating twice (2+hrs) with no success. Eventually I drove the car for a few miles while attempting to be as bumpy and jerky as possible. After several nervous minutes the heat started blowing warm so I stopped, added coolant, drove home, filled again.
Nothing pisses me off more than rebuilding a motor and getting stuck on something as elementary as a coolant flow issue. Its even worse when its a bubble.
Hang in there, at least that is a free repair...
Edit: Just to go ahead and ask a dumb question: You're sure everything is connected as it should be?
In that case I'm going with extremely stubborn air bubble. My Subaru was an absolute nightmare to bleed. I ran it at several steep angles to the point of nearly overheating twice (2+hrs) with no success. Eventually I drove the car for a few miles while attempting to be as bumpy and jerky as possible. After several nervous minutes the heat started blowing warm so I stopped, added coolant, drove home, filled again.
Nothing pisses me off more than rebuilding a motor and getting stuck on something as elementary as a coolant flow issue. Its even worse when its a bubble.
Hang in there, at least that is a free repair...Edit: Just to go ahead and ask a dumb question: You're sure everything is connected as it should be?
12-30-2009, 06:46 PM
#13
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Well, here I am with egg on my face. 20 years working with Hondas, almost 10 with the S2k, and what was it? Must have been air. The t-stat checked out reasonably well, it was opening a few degrees late (5?) but opened fully. I went ahead and replaced it and did a serious bleed:
1. filled it with the nose in the air, both bleeders open and running through clear tube into a container (took about 1.5 gals this way)
2. manually "burped" hoses as much as I could
3. put the rad cap on, then lowered the car
4. filled to replace air (level dropped)
5. worked the hoses some more (rad cap off)
6. filled to replace air
7. put the nose back in the air (rad neck above rear bleeder), rad cap still off
8. started the engine (nose still in the air, rad cap still off) and STILL no heat
9. ran the engine like this for 20 minutes, cap off, alternately revving the motor to about 2k, squeezing hoses, filling the rad, letting the t-stat open and fans come on, repeating until I got heat, and got no more air out of the filler neck/bleeders, and it finally took a little under 2 gals total (about system capacity)
Holy hell, I've had to run and engine before to get air bubbles out, but never this bad. One hard line was crimped about halfway through the diameter, I fixed that, and the new t-stat, I'm guessing that was what was making the air so hard to get out?
Well... thanks guys. I'm glad to have this car done!!!
1. filled it with the nose in the air, both bleeders open and running through clear tube into a container (took about 1.5 gals this way)
2. manually "burped" hoses as much as I could
3. put the rad cap on, then lowered the car
4. filled to replace air (level dropped)
5. worked the hoses some more (rad cap off)
6. filled to replace air
7. put the nose back in the air (rad neck above rear bleeder), rad cap still off
8. started the engine (nose still in the air, rad cap still off) and STILL no heat
9. ran the engine like this for 20 minutes, cap off, alternately revving the motor to about 2k, squeezing hoses, filling the rad, letting the t-stat open and fans come on, repeating until I got heat, and got no more air out of the filler neck/bleeders, and it finally took a little under 2 gals total (about system capacity)
Holy hell, I've had to run and engine before to get air bubbles out, but never this bad. One hard line was crimped about halfway through the diameter, I fixed that, and the new t-stat, I'm guessing that was what was making the air so hard to get out?
Well... thanks guys. I'm glad to have this car done!!!
12-31-2009, 04:36 PM
#15
Originally Posted by Slows2k,Dec 31 2009, 07:22 PM
05-11-2010, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Stratocaster,Dec 31 2009, 05:36 PM
Yeah, that is what I have used to fill mine. Works like a dream. Never had an issue with it.
05-11-2010, 06:06 PM
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does it have a fitting for the radiator cap? or does it have a "universal" type interface?
does it pump air out of the same opening that it fills into?
i'm trying to figure out if i can use my brake bleeder to do the same thing.
does it pump air out of the same opening that it fills into?
i'm trying to figure out if i can use my brake bleeder to do the same thing.
02-07-2011, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by marcucci,Dec 30 2009, 10:46 PM
Well, here I am with egg on my face. 20 years working with Hondas, almost 10 with the S2k, and what was it? Must have been air. The t-stat checked out reasonably well, it was opening a few degrees late (5?) but opened fully. I went ahead and replaced it and did a serious bleed:
1. filled it with the nose in the air, both bleeders open and running through clear tube into a container (took about 1.5 gals this way)
2. manually "burped" hoses as much as I could
3. put the rad cap on, then lowered the car
4. filled to replace air (level dropped)
5. worked the hoses some more (rad cap off)
6. filled to replace air
7. put the nose back in the air (rad neck above rear bleeder), rad cap still off
8. started the engine (nose still in the air, rad cap still off) and STILL no heat
9. ran the engine like this for 20 minutes, cap off, alternately revving the motor to about 2k, squeezing hoses, filling the rad, letting the t-stat open and fans come on, repeating until I got heat, and got no more air out of the filler neck/bleeders, and it finally took a little under 2 gals total (about system capacity)
Holy hell, I've had to run and engine before to get air bubbles out, but never this bad. One hard line was crimped about halfway through the diameter, I fixed that, and the new t-stat, I'm guessing that was what was making the air so hard to get out?
Well... thanks guys. I'm glad to have this car done!!!
1. filled it with the nose in the air, both bleeders open and running through clear tube into a container (took about 1.5 gals this way)
2. manually "burped" hoses as much as I could
3. put the rad cap on, then lowered the car
4. filled to replace air (level dropped)
5. worked the hoses some more (rad cap off)
6. filled to replace air
7. put the nose back in the air (rad neck above rear bleeder), rad cap still off
8. started the engine (nose still in the air, rad cap still off) and STILL no heat
9. ran the engine like this for 20 minutes, cap off, alternately revving the motor to about 2k, squeezing hoses, filling the rad, letting the t-stat open and fans come on, repeating until I got heat, and got no more air out of the filler neck/bleeders, and it finally took a little under 2 gals total (about system capacity)
Holy hell, I've had to run and engine before to get air bubbles out, but never this bad. One hard line was crimped about halfway through the diameter, I fixed that, and the new t-stat, I'm guessing that was what was making the air so hard to get out?
Well... thanks guys. I'm glad to have this car done!!!